Dorikamu

anyone tell me?

immortal

cause the moderators on this board are distributors for the drag kit

Blk97GSR

Because most of us we're paid to hate it... No names please

DragII

hey, I sell both kits!!

Cramerox

Greddy doesnt make enough power for the money for some?

93LSivic

Lame *** fuel management? Internally wastegated......etc

Dorikamu

what's the best turbo kit for 2k-3k... with stock internal... B series engine

cyan1de

two words: blue box

SIK IN DA HED

do a search

boost killz

I've said it..best bang for the buck is by far a drag kit. But I got my greddy with IC for about 2800 tax free and couldn't pass up if not I would be on a drag kit myself.. forget the greddy and go drag muh man.

Nick

maxpsi

i hope that wasnt for a SOHC 92-95 kit...........ALAMO AUTOSPORTS has the greddy kit and IC for $2000

boost killz

Read my sig dude.....


Nick

BLKMamba

I was in the same boat as Nick. I had a good price on my kit except it was used and got it for $2500, came with everything that you need (ic,bov,gauges,timer,etc..) to get your car running in 6 hours.

VTC_CiViC

Find me a DRAG, even used for $1200 with everything and I'da picked it up w/o thinking! But.. since the chances of finding a DRAG kit that cheap is slim at best, I stuck with my trusty GReddy

DIRep972

iTrader: (1)

the only thing i like about greddy is that its street legal.. wait? is that why it doesnt make any power?

turbo to small, internal wastegate, blue box and 2" downpipe..

IMO- greddy is a nice kit if your looking to make your car quicker and remain street legal, but for all out *POWAH* go for something with a T3/T4..

best bang for the buck? ben's drag 3 group buys hahahaha

but................. boost kills does have a pretty powerful greddy set up so if u do what he did i guess its pretty good..


[Modified by DIRep972, 5:44 PM 3/19/2002]

Dorikamu

by that means, will I be able to pass the emission with other turbo kit if they arent street legal?

Cramerox

just pay someone 50 dollaz and they will pass you,

BlueShadow

I think that the reason a lot of people dont make much power is cause they run the kits "stock" boost level (7 or 8 PSI?) with the kits standard fuel management

I dont know about the TD04's but the TD05-18G's are NOT small! just ask the DSM folks. the TD05-18G's are capable of 350-400 HP, 20G's 400-550 HP and there are even 14B GST/GSX's people running 11's-12's on the stock turbos.

The Greddy TD05-18G IS equivalent to a T3/T4 turbo.

I think that the TD04 (turbine) = a T3 .48 a/r
TD05 = T3 .63 a/r maybe .82 not sure

then the 18G (compressor) = T4E 46-50 maybe
20G = T04E 54-60

It's all about the fuel setup, also If you want to find out the secrets to squeezing the most HP out of your Greddy/Mitsubishi turbo kit visit http://www.dsmtalk.com

DIRep972

iTrader: (1)

.. you also have to remember the CFM's on the two motors.. Ive seen u post and I know u r a very smart guy so I don't want to get in an argument with u cause I will undoubtably loose ...but... I dont know the exact CFM's of the two motors and the different turbos but I can almost garuntee an 18g will not make the same amount of power on a honda motor as a T3/T04e will at the same psi of boost.. It seems like the 18g is equivelant to a T3/T04b and the 20g is equivelant to a T3/T04e..

heres something ive given some thought too.. If you look at the average dyno #'s for greddy turbo GSR's at 7psi you will get between 220-230whp.. If you look at the avg. dyno's for Drag3 GSR's u will get about 250-260whp.. Now why does it make less power? well at first I thought it was because the turbo was "smaller" but now that I think about it there are alot of factors that could contribute.. most people are running the greddy kits w/ 2" downpipes and catlytic converters, replace those components right there and u have gained quite a few horses.. Then look at the fuel system, could the blue box be worse then an FMU/inline? maybe that contributes to a few ponies.. Then when u fix all the things wrong with the greddy kit u r making just as much power as a drag kit.. but who wants to just buy a kit and change everything about it? Not me.. id rather go custom..


[Modified by DIRep972, 4:56 PM 3/20/2002]

BlueShadow

I actually did take the CFM of our Honda engines into consideration. The Turbo Eclipse's 2.0L (4AG??) is probably right between a B18C1/5 and an H22A1/4, CFM-wise. Based on some rough calculations I figured for the Turbo Eclipses motor, H22's and B18C1's here is what I came up with.

-Turbo Eclipse motor (4AG3?)= about 200 CFM with zero boost(80 % VE) @ 7000 RPM

-H22A4 = an H22 flows roughly 270 CFM @ 7000 RPM (Natural Aspirated)

-B18C1 = roughly 230 CFM (maybe more ) @ 7500 RPM

Our Honda's can probably flow more air than the Turbo'ed GST/GSX motor (zero boost). The VTEC allows more air to be crammed in there, but I think a lot of the turbo's power is lost there too.

I think another reason that the Eclipse GST/GSX's can make so much power so easily is cause of the sturdiness of the block.

Another reason could be cause most GST/GSX owners use a Mitsubishi TD05-18G's NOT the Greddy TD05-18G. Altough the Greddy turbos are manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries (MHI), I found out recently that Greddy uses their own turbine for their kit. As a result of Greddy's own modification to their kit has a smaller turbine. The turbine designation is still the same (TD05) but something else is smaller, but I cant remember exactly what. I think the result of Greddys own modification is less lag and the "out of steam" symtom at high RPM's.

All the other GST/GSX folks that push high HP numbers out of 18G's are probably using non-Greddy moddified turbo's. In oither words Mitsu turbos (MHI).

I dont think Greddy has a TDxx-20G series upgrade, you can get the Mitsu turbo at any Mitsu turbo dealer though. I think the 20G compressor is usually mated to a TD05 or TD06 turbine, and thats the equivalent of a straight T4. Thats just what I was told/heard, I have to check to be sure.

The one reasdon I want to get the Greddy with E-manage for my Lude is cause of the CARB EO. When I go back to CA, I want to be able to pass the smog-test with the Greddy kit at its "stock" setup. But once smog-test is over, I would switch to an alternate setup.

-different Mitsu Turbo (not Greddy) assembly, 18G or 20G.
-Internal WG welded shut
-different Manifold with external WG (Tial maybe)

I think that maybe I'll be boosting 12-15 PSI with this setup, and 8 PSI with the Greddy's "stock" setup. I'm still working out some minor details.



[Modified by BlueShadow, 6:53 PM 3/20/2002]

boost killz

Blueshadow... Just curious if you think it is definitely worth keeping the greddy 18g and upgrading to a 20g wheel? I have plans for the future as my sig would clearly state but would love to retain the turbo that came with the greddy kit. Also would porting and clipped be a good investment for a slightly better top end? I plan to do the same as far as closing off the internal to an external etc etc.. I am hoping in the future to see about 360 or 370 to the wheels and come to an end with this car as far as modding... Have plans for a fox body stang also in the future.. just to cheap and great bang for the buck for 1/4 mile racing. Internals are built on my car along with hondata 3b blah blah .. Only things I know I will need to upgrade is possibly to a 20g wheel, bigger more efficient IC, external wastegate, and most important,turbo manifold.

Nick

BlueShadow

boost killz,

how much PSI are you boosting right now on the Greddy 18G and how much HP was it giving you? I'm guessing you're not boosting more than 15 PSI cause you mentioned you stil had the internal WG.

Most of my research is Prelude specific however a lot of it still applies to different cars. When I asked about me switching to a 20G the guy I was talking too (Tony SN TurboEVO) said that a 20G is usually best for 20+ PSI. You would obviusly need a external WG at 20+ PSI but he didn't specifically say if it would work on the Greddy Manifold.

The 18G usually max out around 400ish HP, after that I'm guessing the air charge gets *a lil* warm. So maybe a 20G would be better so that you can run a cooler air charge, and so that you aren't straining the turbo's so much.

And about porting and clipping, I have been visiting http://www.dsmtalk.com and I have been snooping around trying to learn all their tricks and secrets. A lot of the people that have ported or clipped say doing so was well worth i, even if it was a little bit laggier.

here is a link that might help, maybe you can PM TurboEVO and ask him your questions so you can get a second opinion. scroll down to where I ask him about 20G's on Ludes too.
http://www.preludeonline.com/showthr...0&pagenumber=3

Rob03Pro5

BlueShadow,

I'm glad someone is keeping an open mind with Mitsu- turbos. Btw, the TD05 exhaust housing is equivalent to a .48 and the TD06 is more like a .63... not exact cross-references, but close. The only problem with mitsu turbos is the lack of different stages on their turbine wheels.. still great turbos though.

boost killz

You hit it on the money BLUE in regards to 15 psi because that is my max that I am able to push. They tried to go further and TADAA spiking had ocurred so I was given an option to waste more $$$$ and adapt an external or live with 15 psi. I decided to stay with the 15 psi for A)you really can't run past that on pump gas and B)my loving fiancee AHHH . Hopefully I will see better gains along with a better intake manifold and upgrade the manifold along with external wastegate. Thanks for the link btw... Also just out of curiosity would you or anyone know at what limit of hp do the greddy TYPE 24 or 31 intercoolers become no longer efficient.. Thnaks ,

Nick

riot

I won't tell you why other people hate it, I can tell you why I wouldn't choose it. Internal Wastegate and that "blue box"

-ryan