I searched and couldn't find quite what i was looking for. Just curious what route most of you guys take with assembling built engines. Do you do it yourself? Find a local, trusted shop? Do you feel its worth it to pay big money for GE or similar big name companies to do it?

For those of you that assemble yourself, is it a ridiculous undertaking, or something that can be accomplished with a methodical, careful, informed approach?

I've rebuilt 2 stroke and 4 stroke dirtbike engines and an old 4 stroke 4 cylinder motorcycle without a problem, and I'm sure i 'could' assemble a honda engine, I'm just a little hesitant to dig into a $2500 engine because of all the people i read about on here that dick it up in one way or another.

Any advice from the experienced guys would be appreciated.

 

As long as you have an eye for precision, and follow the "measure twice, cut once" mentality, assembling your own motor is easy. There are certain things you should have a pro do (measuring clearances is a prime example), but the brunt of the work, you can do yourself.

 

100% of the assembly is me, honda engines are CAKE. Machine shop gets the block and pistons to deck/bore/hone and set P2W properly, the rest is easy if you have a decent torque wrench.

The trickiest part is filing piston rings and being meticulous with that procedure, and compressing those rings properly to slide the piston into the bore is where I see most errors.

 

the fiz.

 

That's what I was hoping you guys would say. I'll take note of being careful filing/compressing the rings. Any other common mistakes that come right to mind?

 

Really? I mean, filing the rings I can see, but people actually **** up using a ring compressor? That was the easiest part of my build...and if I had to pick, the part that I had the most fun with.

OP, remember your torque values, and remember your torque methods. Some values are dry. Some are with oil. Some are with assembly lube. Make sure you know the difference.

Speaking of assembly lube...use it. Love it. It will be what decides if your motor starts on first start, or if your bearings go for a trip around the crank. Fail to use enough, and kiss your motor good bye. Use too much and...well, there isn't really a down side. Just use the **** out of it.

 

Will do man, I'll keep all that in mind. I'll be picking up a helms manual shortly so i know all the torque specs etc. Thanks for all the advice. If anyone else has relevant experience, I'm all ears. I want to do this one time and do it right.

 

Cleanliness is godliness.

Words to live by when building a motor.

ATF is one of the best cleaners for internal engine parts about to be assembled. Wet a clean rag with it and wipe the area (cylinder walls, pistons, rings, rods, crank journals, etc.). Repeat until the rag no longer darkens after wiping. It may take a long while and many rags on certain places, like the cylinder walls.

Google/Youtube engine building/tech tips from big engine builders/shops. Not all shops have them, but there are definitely some great videos out there that give solid advice and actually show you how, not just words on a screen.

 

ATF works well. Diesel works better.

 

Great advice guys.

 

The problem is that most people dont hold the compressor tool square with the deck of the block, you have to have it seated all around the block while compressing the rings, so the pistons and rings slip past and into the bore, if there is any gap between the tool and block on any side the ring pops out of that gap when you are sliding/tapping it past, usually resulting is some decent damage, assuming you notice and didnt just tap it harder past...

I also like to pack the oil pump with vaseline/assembly lube, but I also port the pump and have it apart to do so, not sure if its necessary to do another method if buying a new pump and not opening it up

 

A few good ones:

 

Oh wow, that's stupid.

Rule #1 of engien building: If it isn't flush, you did something wrong.

 

It always helps to have an old hot rod builder sitting around whose built a few thousand engines to give you some mentoring haha

 

Howard Anderson @ AR Fab in Virginia.

 

Eh...there are certain things that applied back then that absolutely don't apply now, but having an experienced person with you is always a good idea in any endeavor.

 

For the real ballerzzz

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...8100/overview/

 

I build myself. A little high school math helps with measurements.

 

Love those ring tapers.

 

Buy some cheap, but good mics and a bore gauge, and check yourself...
The "Pro's" have employees, who sometimes don't care as much as you do.

 

I bought an 81.5mm for when I put together my engine.

Figured if I was gonna assemble my first engine right, id get one of the best tools for the rings

 

I have a drawer full of the tapered bore ring compressors I use for engine assembly.

They are invaluable, along with a rod bolt stretch gauge.

 

Aaron Teague - TSR.
I've wanted to learn how to build/assemble a block but don't really have the space or the right tools to do it.
The guy I have build my blocks has built 8 second Honda motors, it costs me $500 bucks to have him do it which at the end of the day is way cheaper than me attempting to do it and break thousands of dollars in parts.

Also $500 dollars in not a lot if done right because it can last for years. If people are having to rebuild their motors all the time they should think about paying someone LOL.

 

As long as you're careful and meticulous about cleaning and checking everything, you shouldn't have problems building it yourself...Honda engines are easy to learn on. I think the best method is building either a D series or an LS because if you **** it up, its only $3-400 wasted. I learned by rebuilding a couple Z6's and gradually worked up the confidence to build my CP/Eagle LS-VTEC (first non-oem rebuild for me), which is still running around at ~400whp nearly 7 years later. It definitely boosts your confidence to see that your creation hasn't grenaded itself.

I followed the Jeff Evans GSR build thread - I can't seem to find it right now, but most of you probably know what i'm talking about

 

It cost me $400.00 to get the CSS installed, block decked. $642.00 to have my block bored and honed to CP's specs, file fit rings, balance rotating assembly, and assemble with proper clearances and torques. $500.00 to get head surfaced, competition valve job, and assembly. $300.00 to have Skunk2 Ultra race ported by 4 piston.

I don't mind paying for good work.