DC2MeCZoom

So, I don't have any pics right now but I just came back from pickin up an aebs sleeved Gsr block (arias 85mm 9:6cr ). The block was O ringed and has micro polished crank, acl's, arp headStuds /rod bolts.

Now the prev. Owner says block only has 200 mi. Between dyno pulls etc since being sleeved, and was bought New from honda before. I just want to be better safe then sorry as I get together my build and wonder if I should just change out the piston rings and maybe the bearings?

I have ACL's already for b18c and the rings are only like 25$, the only thing is I'll have to remove the rod bolts and I read they stretch when installing so that would lead to new rod bolts or they're re usable? Thanks in advance, here's a link to the fs thread:
http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=3087145

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

No, dont touch the rings or the bearings. Unless the prev owner told you it had damage dont touch it.

OneBadTurboCRV

I wasn't going to waste my time with a response, but $25 for a set of rings??? HAHA, wow... can't wait for the "I just blew my engine" thread.

You got taken for sure... that isn't a new block from Honda. If you look for "200" miles that thing is NASTY. He tried to clean all the oil it was burning off of the pistons but didn't even take the time to clean the valve reliefs. The pistons would not be that clean colored with those kinds of deposits in the pockets. The engine probably had 20,000 miles and was sand blasted when the sleeves were installed. Everybody asksfor receipts, yet they can easily be faked and parts returned. People try that crap with me all the time. Good luck.

DC2MeCZoom

I was told it was 100% fine a ready to install, but I was also told how the block has X amount of low miles and etc.. It's tough to just go by someone's word. Also with the block being out for a bit it has lil dirt particles in certain places, I just hate to assemble a perfectly assembled block..

Ha, I honestly careless about the block really being bought new lol I know better than to just believe anything I'm told without proof (although the seller had plenty vouches). You do make a good point though, would suck to have 25 bucks be the cause of a complete failure.

Just thought if they weren't bad I could run em'

blackeg

The pics are down in the fs thread. Do u have any u can post up.


And honestly, of course he told u everything is fine. They will always tell u that. Make that sale then peace out with ur cash in their pocket. This is why I avoid used parts if possible, and buy stuff like blocks and heads with the intent of going rigjt to the machine shop

v8eatrr

Install new rings when you don't have any compressiOn or when your burning over a quart a day... Why take apart a good workin engine??

rich7777

How does he know it's a good engine?

DC2MeCZoom

Exactly!

The kid I bought it from had plenty good reviews and sold to plenty know people here on h-tech with not 1 bad Review.. But I'm definitely not about to risk over 4k between the head and block on with something do minor.

I'm just goin to go ahead and order some new rings, arp rod and main bolts. Better safe than sorry plus my teg still has a couple mo's til it'll be ready to have the engine tossed in.. I'll post up pics when I'm off of work.. On break right now

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Im still confused why you assume the rings need to be replaced.

DC2MeCZoom

Not that I'm assumeing that there bad but it's more Of me wanting to be on the safe side. I honestly don't know how to diagnose a bad ring or how often there chaned out.. but also, changing out the rings I can inspect all internals and be 100% positive that the block would be ready to run, cause its been out for a while.

Or pleasee give me a good reason why it's not really necessary? I'm here too learn

OneBadTurboCRV

This has gone from bad to worse... kid, listen, 95% of the time you install new rings because they are worn and predetermined from a running issue. If the cylinders are glazed you will need at least a hone regardless. Why in the hell would you be purchasing rod bolts when they are already installed? You do know that factory replacements won't work in aftermarket rods? So now you are going to install main studs huh? Are you ready to have the bottom end line bored and to redo all the main bearings and have the tools to do so?

I hate to break it to you, but $4k isn't much of an investment in the Honda world. You are opening up a huge can of worms that you clearly aren't ready for and lack fundamental knowledge when it comes to building engines. This just isn't something that can be learned overnight.

DC2MeCZoom

Wow, lol had to figure I was Gunna get flamed soon with my confusion.

Your right, I haven't ever built an engine before but that is exactly the reason why I posted on here for some help. Sorry if I came off the wrong way or if I asked my question the wrong way but I just want some help from people that have experience. Off rip I got 2 Completely different answers from 2 experienced minds which kind of threw me off. Im nooo guru what so ever, didn't think it would stretch to this but I just wanted a yes or no and a good reason behind it..

Im a noob but I do plenty of research before I post up or touch anything! I know factory and aftermarket Rods use different bolts and I also know they stretch when installed reason being me wanting new hardware. My mainstuds are OE which I'm sure are fine but it wouldn't hurt to strengthen it up more which is my reasoning do wanting that.


As for myself, I'm only 19 an been doing Hondas for only a yr, but I been going to my dads auto body shop and mechanical shop since I was like 5. Doesnt mean much but since I turned 17 I been taking life more serious and decided to get things on track. Right now I'm a Liscenced auto appraiser and plan too keep growing my knowledge on cars but this flaming isnt doing me know good..

I have more than enough tools, my dad used to rebuild engines back in the day but now a days it's cheaper to swap a whole motor. Also the snap-on truck comes every Friday and I can et any single tool I need or ordered.. Btw, i already got new acl's too..

So again nevasatisfied, I didn't mean to come off as some type of tard, and I don't want to start no argument but I AM ready to open up this can of worms! I'm ready to gain all the knowledge I need to get my build together and **** , hopefully y'all can help me with the best insight.

OneBadTurboCRV

I am probably one of the harshest people on here, I do admit. Regardless, with my BS comes A LOT of knowledge and decades of experience. So let's go a different direction: What exactly are your horsepower goals, purpose of the vehicle, and budget?

High quality pictures are also a must to help you determine what is needed and what is not. Also, until you actually measure clearances, you potentially wasted your time and money purchasing new bearings.

DC2MeCZoom

Ha, really appreciate it man. Look forward to learning a couple things from y'all here in H-T!

I'm shooting for 500whp on high boost and about 380-400whpish for daily driving. Definitely plan to drag a few if not more times in the future but I'm overall shooting for a build that will last me. I'm not Gunna beat on her too crazy for now. Honestly don't have a budget, I work my *** off and splurge on my teg on the weekends lol.

I sent my head to PortFlow a couple weeks ago, was Gunna do a pocket port/ mild NA build but talked to Tom and he definitely helped me out with a few things which lead me to choose to just go the extra dollar to get the standard head work. Iconel exaughst valves , ferrea guides, supertech springs/ti retainers. I just told Tom I was thebest I can get. I got my fullll supsension down to the bushings ready for install, just waiting to finish shaving my bay.. Only shitty iPhone pics:/ Tomorow I can snap some shots of the walls, they have visible scratches but not at all felt with fingernail, that's why I kinda felt the need to replace.




I do need better pics, I'm broke from getting the block on Sunday and just ordered a helms manual but besides a DSLR camera what would be a good alternative? Maybe like 100-200$ range

OneBadTurboCRV

Are you trying to talk to a guy in his 60's about new fangled cameras? Haha, thanks for the laugh.

This could be unfortunate to have scuffing on the cylinder walls. I would recommend a full tear down to inspect piston skirts. While it's apart measure the piston to wall clearance to see what you are working with. My best advice would have been to not purchase somebody else's problem. 85mm is starting to get more towards beyond the limit I would personally use for forced induction. While porting and polishing is completely unnecessary for your power goals, it will help you get there with less boost. Rod bolt replacement would be determined by stretch. Unfortunately you don't have the starting spec to go off of. Main studs are not needed for your goals. 500whp could be easily doable daily on E85. 400-450whp would be more the limit on 93 pump gas. The choice of titanium or bronze valve guides makes this engine around a 40-60k life span dependant on many factors.

What is your cam choice and turbo idea you have planned?

Runnerdown

I agree, full tear down and assessment would be the best way to go. People's "built motors" always seem to have some secrets or problems.

DC2MeCZoom

Ok, I felt the same about 85mm but we will see, hopefully a hone will do. What can I do with not haveing the starting spec for the rod bolts? 400 on pump is more then fine with me while I hope I have a reliable build to make the 60k mark. I ported my head cause in the future I plan to raise my whp goals but sometimes I try n do too much a once.. Aha so I want to take a littttle easier.

I don't have a cam choice set in stone, I read the ITR cams are pretty good for turbo but I have still been reading up on them. Same with the turbo, I was reading the article describing how to identify them by name an I got some what of a basis understanding but im looking for a turbo that I can grow with. That will easily reach my daily goals , but when I want to bump the boost it shows great improvements..

OneBadTurboCRV

For the bolts, either wing it or purchase new ones.

For the turbo, everybody has their favorites. I prefer Garretts... so a GT35R or the likes would be a decent compromise for more than your current goals. It all depends if you are more worried about all around performance or straight line as well. Something like a GT3076R or a little more inbetween the two may be a better solution.

Type R camshafts are an excellent choice as well as something more obtainable like Skunk2 Tuner 1's although I don't know exactly what you afe having done for head work. Talk to Portflow and see what they recommend.

Hidenplanvew

I would start with stock gsr cams or what you have from there. (Stock gsr cams are fine for about 500whp).. You need to get the block honed, decked, Check P2w clearance, new bearings, and a few other random parts. A gt30 or 6262 would be awsome. or talk to shodan mans a good when it comes to turbos, just dont rub him the wrong way. He is a better bridge not burned!

blackeg

i think if you can get your hands on some itr cams go for it. they will be great for bigger boost later, and for the meantime will make more hp on less boost.

for the block. id tear it down and inspect everything. check the bore, bearing condition and clearances etc. best case, a rehone and some new rings. at least this way you know before you take the time to assemble the whole engine and swap in it

DC2MeCZoom

Thanks a lot for the inputs!

I was leaning more toward the itr cams, Plus you can't beat OE quality, but I will give Tom a call in a couple to see what he suggests. I still need to wait atleast til Friday to get a lil tools list (12point for the rods, couple more measurement tools etc) and by the weekend I'll have it all apart and a bit of room to buy the miscellaneous parts for the block and my tranny.

As for the turbo I don't want to start no great debate on which is best but I would like some great info, or maybe a thread as to why I should go with a certain turbo. I havnt checked yet but what's te average price on a used/ and a new GT35?

Might make this my lil build to my engine build.

Found my cheap cam and got a few better pics . The walls are silky smooth but have a couple visible scars this is the 3 rd block I bought smhh but the first I got sleeved so I'm hoping for the best cause I don't want to over bore n have to go NA.......... Lol

92civiceg9gsr

I wouldn't chance it. I would just go through and clean up, refresh, blueprint, and reassemble.

Hidenplanvew

a hone would prob work for the sleeves... Unless there are any deep grooves that will catch a finger nail..

OneBadTurboCRV

That may not be entirely true... It really depends on how deep the scratches are exactly and the current piston to wall clearance.

As far as a new GT35R usually $1,300-$1,600 depending on where you buy them from. If you see prices under $1k I would start to question authenticity.

Runnerdown

Those cylinders don't look all that healthy. The one looks like it has pitting all around? Plus it looks really dirty in all the pics. There is going to be dirt no matter what, but the cleaner you can keep it the better off you are for wear and longevity.