PhoPho

I was just wondering what kind of turbo kits are available for a stock B motor the can withstand 350whp without braking the bank under $2500. But also descent parts on it without breaking in less than a month or two with a proper installation and tuning.

Rikter

Hmm.. I beleive topic covered:

Cheap, Reliable, Fast.

You can only choose two out of the three options.
-Rik

esedulerp5tenin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rikter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm.. I beleive topic covered:

Cheap, Reliable, Fast.

You can only choose two out of the three options.
-Rik</TD></TR></TABLE>


+2.

cheap and reliable wont be fast.
fast and cheap wont be reliable.
fast and reliable wont be cheap

integraftw98

your going to need to step it up in to the 3000 -3500 range to get that whp. I can tell you right now that on a b-series motor your only going to get about 10psi on stock internals and maybe if lucky 300whp on a good tune. That with stock internals.

quik sol

if you don't know what the hell your talking about....don't comment....

Anyways, you could peice together a turbo setup for around 1500 that could hit that HP...but there is alot of fabrication that would need to be done...

if you wanta a straight up bolt on kit, I would recommend Peak Boost, it is a little higher than your price, but by not much and is one of the best quality turbo kits out there...

here is a link to there post on the sponsors sales: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1595507

quik sol

Also here is a link to a post on here that has a bunch of pictures from customers, and comments from customers...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1213238

integraftw98

OMG. Are you kidding me. I know you can put a homemade kit together for like 1,600. He was talkin about a kit. Peakboost b-series non a/c compatilbe kit costs around 2,900. Here go to this http://www.cheapturbo.com or spoolinperformance.com or this one pheonixturbo.com. And go to this if you are lookin at building a homemad kit http://www.homemadeturbo.com. And dont start your blah blah blah. When i know what im talkin about OMG.

quik sol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraftw98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can tell you right now that on a b-series motor your only going to get about 10psi on stock internals and maybe if lucky 300whp on a good tune. That with stock internals. </TD></TR></TABLE>


right...you really know what your talking about...

integraftw98

That is true information. Just to give you a hint on things. A guy by the name of jan neimi has a integra type r. It was turboed on stock internals. with a t3/to4e trim on 10 psi. it ran for about 45,000 miles than poof the bottom end gave. It ended up being the pistons and rods. On stock internals safty its good to use 10psi. Go head crank it up all you want maybe lets say 15psi. Dont cry when the rod goes through the oil pan.

quik sol

lol, it is all in the tuning...i have seen 375whp on stock motors...and there has been higher...

PrecisionH23a

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PhoPho &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was just wondering what kind of turbo kits are available for a stock B motor the can withstand 350whp without braking the bank under $2500. But also descent parts on it without breaking in less than a month or two with a proper installation and tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cheap, reliable, fast.

I would plan on spending at least 3500-4000 all said and done if you want to meet these goals the right way.

integraftw98

What psi made that 375whp I can tell you right now its not 10psi or lower. I dont think anything after 10psi is safe on a stock motor. I mean you can run 18psi with forged low compression pistons and forged connecting rods. But im just sayin for a reilable dd anything more than 10psi is not safe.

quik sol

you don't get it....psi don't mean ****...

PrecisionH23a

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraftw98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What psi made that 375whp I can tell you right now its not 10psi or lower. I dont think anything after 10psi is safe on a stock motor. I mean you can run 18psi with forged low compression pistons and forged connecting rods. But im just sayin for a reilable dd anything more than 10psi is not safe. </TD></TR></TABLE>

10psi on a t25 is not the same as 10psi on a gt4088.

I have done several stock B series that have put out over 300whp.



I will be doing a stock block b16 in the next few weeks that is aiming for 400whp. It's very possible... but tuning is the key.

integraftw98

See those numbers on the chart thats 13psi. Yes psi means alot its the pounds per square inch in the cylinder, the more psi the more air, the more air the more combustion. 10 psi is the max on a stock motor anything more will bust. Im talkin about reilablity like 60,000 miles or more.

integraftw98

Your right on that thou 10 psi on a t3/to4e is not the same as 10psi on a gt35r.

SOHCD16y8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraftw98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">See those numbers on the chart thats 13psi. Yes psi means alot its the pounds per square inch in the cylinder, the more psi the more air, the more air the more combustion. 10 psi is the max on a stock motor anything more will bust. Im talkin about reilablity like 60,000 miles or more. </TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm, then I guess I should let my freind who runs 15psi on his stock ls that i tuned for him that he better turn it down do it doesnt blow. Even though it has 30k on it already.

quik sol

psi dont mean crap, its all about the tuning...

10 psi on a 14b aint gonna be the same as 10 psi on a gt40....

integraftw98

it may have 30,000 but what im tryin to say is that if you want a relible dd then dont go over 10. I guess i dont know jack **** im just a master techian thou. But ahhh i dont know anything. But im makin over 90k a year. But yeah u know more than me so im not gunna talk you guys know everything.

PrecisionH23a

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraftw98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">See those numbers on the chart thats 13psi. Yes psi means alot its the pounds per square inch in the cylinder, the more psi the more air, the more air the more combustion. 10 psi is the max on a stock motor anything more will bust. Im talkin about reilablity like 60,000 miles or more. </TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraftw98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it may have 30,000 but what im tryin to say is that if you want a relible dd then dont go over 10. I guess i dont know jack **** im just a master techian thou. But ahhh i dont know anything. But im makin over 90k a year. But yeah u know more than me so im not gunna talk you guys know everything. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok... sorry about that. Go ahead and just forget that I did mechanical engineering during my college career. You know how to professionally change fluids while I took classes such as fluid dynamics.

By the way...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraftw98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I guess i dont know jack **** im just a master techian thou. </TD></TR></TABLE>

'thou' is not a word. Take some of that $90k you make changing oil daily and invest in a decent education.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok... sorry about that. Go ahead and just forget that I did mechanical engineering during my college career.

By the way... thou is not a word. Take some of that $90k you make changing oil daily and invest in a decent education. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You both suck, you cant run more then 3 psi on a stock b16

lol

integraftw98

The unused word of (thou). Is a rephasing word. It is like refering to something. Or in other words someone. In that case, I was refering to you. I know my grammer is a little on the rough side. You got to take this in to case. I work on engine's all day. Not changing oil at uncle ed's for $8.75 or whatever they pay these days. My grammer is a little rough because I dont type up papers all day. I use my hands and strength. I hate when I tell someone something that is correct. Than they try to correct me in any way that is possible. Okay I will use this as a something I tell the customer when they want there engine built. They tell me the parts they want on it. If something is not right,and I dont see it being used for the right purpose on that motor. I tell them this why think out of the box and try doing something that no one has tryed doing before. Like in this case a stock motor at 10psi. You can run more than 10psi all you want. You can even try 20psi any day. What im trying to say is that at 10psi it is the most reilable psi level a b-series motor can take. Im not talking about just 30,000 miles. Im talking about once you boost that engine it should run for atleast 70,000miles. The only way for that motor to last that long is on 10psi. Well you may say psi dont mean anything. Well just try 20psi on stock internals drive it for about 20,000 miles take it to the track a couple times. Then come back here and say that it did not give on the bottom end.

Bailhatch

Dear integraftw98,

You have no idea what you are talking about when it comes to how turbo systems work. You better give up the idea that boost pressure has any correlation to power on different setups with different turbos. If you don't, H-T will e-rape you and your grease packed fingernails.


Thanks for playing,

Some *******.

P.S. you were trying to write the word 'though' not 'thou'. Thou rhymes with bough since you apparently have no idea what you said. So don't just google that **** next time and try to sound smart.

SOHCD16y8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraftw98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The unused word of (thou). Is a rephasing word. It is like refering to something. Or in other words someone. In that case, I was refering to you. I know my grammer is a little on the rough side. You got to take this in to case. I work on engine's all day. Not changing oil at uncle ed's for $8.75 or whatever they pay these days. My grammer is a little rough because I dont type up papers all day. I use my hands and strength. I hate when I tell someone something that is correct. Than they try to correct me in any way that is possible. Okay I will use this as a something I tell the customer when they want there engine built. They tell me the parts they want on it. If something is not right,and I dont see it being used for the right purpose on that motor. I tell them this why think out of the box and try doing something that no one has tryed doing before. Like in this case a stock motor at 10psi. You can run more than 10psi all you want. You can even try 20psi any day. What im trying to say is that at 10psi it is the most reilable psi level a b-series motor can take. Im not talking about just 30,000 miles. Im talking about once you boost that engine it should run for atleast 70,000miles. The only way for that motor to last that long is on 10psi. Well you may say psi dont mean anything. Well just try 20psi on stock internals drive it for about 20,000 miles take it to the track a couple times. Then come back here and say that it did not give on the bottom end. </TD></TR></TABLE>

SO basically your saying that if I make 230whp at 20psi with a ko4 turbo and 375 with a Gt35 at 10psi that I am more likely to blow more motor with the ko4???? That makes no sense at all, horsepower puts stress on motors, not psi. Also what is the difference between going 30,000 and 70,000 miles? If the motor makes it to 2000 with no problems why cant it go to 70,000? Is there some magic time released turbo wear that occurs on engines that im not aware of? Last time I checked all it takes is one problem to destroy a motor such as a faulty fuel injector. It doesnt matter if it happens at 200,000 or 200. If it happens is gonna break. A healthy motor has no sense of time.

Bailhatch

he thinks boost pressure means cylinder pressure, he said it earlier. It's only going to get more funny from here <U>though</U>