<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How was this done, how do you change from a puller to a pusher. ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
just unbolt the fan and turn it around.

I run a 1/2 size PWR and a 12inch slimfan, clears up a bunch of room in the engine bay but i havent really noticed a huge cooling difference, if it wasnt for my stock peice o' **** radiator cracking at the top i would have never upgraded the system. Glad its done now i guess.

 

Pusher:

 

you can't just unbolt the fan and put it on the other side. the fan blades will still turn the same way and act as a puller but it'll be in the front of the rad.

you need to reverse the polarity going to the fan motor for the fan to act as a pusher...

 

Koyo Half-core
FAL Fan well worth it investment...its designed similar to stock yet better with a foam suction and has a slim housing to force the air...thus cooling the entire
radiator... bolts on directly like a stock fan would...
Fan Switch Jumped to stay on all the time...it takes a bit longer to warm up
Prestone Kragen Radiator Cap
60% water
40% Prestone

 

Does anyone have a wire diagram to have the fans on all the time.

 

.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00IntegrAllmotoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone have a wire diagram to have the fans on all the time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

 

when you guys say goin "warmer".... how warm is warmer... just up over half on the temp gauge? how close does it get to the top

 

Hey I was wondering how you changed your stock fan to a pusher instead of a puller. I plan on doing this. Did you have any problems with space where the intercooelr goes? thanks


its behind the intercooler. I fabbed brackets to attach it and reversed polarity (thats important or it will blow backwards). I then had to move the power steering cooling line out of the way to clear it. It works fine and moves a lot of air.

 

"since when does water make aluminum corrode? "

Aluminum is corrosive and water provides the path-just like steel. The reason most engines do not corrode is the coolant has anti corrosive agents in it to prevent this. Over time these agents break down due to hot/cold cycles. This is why it is necessary to change the engine coolant periodically.

 

i switched my slim fan around today, and it didnt overheat anymore

 

i have a friend with a basic greddy kit on a gsr. when crusing on the interstates and such he over heats but not all the way up. **** gets HOT. he took his hood off and started driving it and it never overheated the whole time he had the hood off, so now hes doing the spacing in rear of the hood, supposively this works for others. we will see.

 

-Larger v6 Mx3 Radiator
-160* thermostat
-60/40 coolant mix
-Imperial slim fan on a thermostatically controlled switch(180*) setup as a puller.

Car runs around 165* when cruising, 175-180 after boosting the crap out of it.

 

oil cooler

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPOOLINmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i ha he took his hood off and started driving it and it never overheated the whole time he had the hood off, so now hes doing the spacing in rear of the hood, supposively this works for others. we will see. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Im definately going to give this one a try.. Ive tried everything and the bitch still runs hot..

 

i'm running a half size del sol radiator in my dc2, so if i switch the fan to front it will be a puller? don't have to wire it up any different? i'm also gonna run a 160 degree thermostat, maybe purple ice and distilled water? purple ice any good?

any comments welcome

thanks

 

if you just switch it to front, it will overheat, cause the fan is a puller, and is fighting against the wind...

i had that problem

 

how are spal fans?

 

please tell me that was a joke?
all metals corode over time with water. some just happen to do it sooner.

yes aluminium DOES corrode from water. I beleive someoen mentioned to make sure you use something like antifreeze because it helps prevent electrolites form eating away at the metal.

 

i have heat problems.. i hope its not another head gasket

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urbansi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
just unbolt the fan and turn it around.

I run a 1/2 size PWR and a 12inch slimfan, clears up a bunch of room in the engine bay but i havent really noticed a huge cooling difference, if it wasnt for my stock peice o' **** radiator cracking at the top i would have never upgraded the system. Glad its done now i guess.



</TD></TR></TABLE>

see thats what i was talking about putting the fan in front of the radiator and he said it will be a pusher, so one else said it would over heat, i need to know asap plz help thanks

 

the stock fan is not ever efficent for performance purposes. your better off leaving the stocker on and in it's normal place and adding a pusher fan, orreplace the stocker with a much better aftermarket. to replace the stocker it's about $80 average for a GOOD fan.

 

pwr half size rad, stock thermostat, 12 inch slimline fan and i get the temps around 181-195, unless there is some traffic jam or something and it goes to 203 tops.

 

12" ebay fan 1200cfm wired as pusher, Turbonetics/Spearco 1/2 size dual core radiator, fail safe thermostat, EMS to kick the fan on at 180 degrees. It ran a little hot yesterday.... about 220 degrees. I'm not too worried about it. I thought about running my N2O intercooler spray on the radiator tho.... ha ha....

 

What pressure rad caps are you guys running? I just got my C&R radiator today and it comes with a 21psi cap.

Whats the pros/cons of a higher pressure cap? Thanks