I am running my car on a basemap until i can get it tuned. Car idles pretty well but there are some weird issues:

At idle, afrs on the wideband read 10.5-10, but when driving they are between 14 and 12 most of the time (sometimes a lil richer)

At idle my fuel pressure is about 42psi but as soon as i turn off the car it jumps to 25psi using commandflo fpr and ge fuel rail

Car is a little boggy at times, im assuming this is due to the partial throttle maps on the tune?

Aside from that everything is good, im getting some weird noises from my axles but i think it may just be the dust protector rubbing the rotor.

Any input on the above issues would be appreciated just want to make sure my issues are tune related and not indicators of bigger problems!

 

dont drive boost on a basemap. get it tuned or don't drive it.

 

im not boosting it at all, this is a fresh rebuild and im trying to put some miles one it before i go on the dyno to make sure everything works cause dyno time is MULA.....

and i got wideband and EGT to make sure im safe but make no mistakes im not boosting. These are out-of-boost symptoms

 

Im sure its just needs tuning. I am curious though, how is the idle with afr that low? is it steady or lumpy?

idle afr and driving afr will always be different. under WOT(max loading) you will be rich, at cruise(minimal load), you may be stoich or even lean, depending how the tune is, timing, etc.

 

you're running really rich, which is what's causing your problems most likely. btw: that is badddd for a new engine.. you're going to wash out your rings. get it tuned!!! you can break it in on a dyno.

 

ok well i need to drive it to the dyno anyway, washing out my rings is exactly what im worried about.

Idle is around 800rpms and the afrs go between about 10.5 and RICH so im kinda concerned. My plugs are gapped to .25 or .025 whatever they are measured in, its a small gap. Plug wires, rotor and cap are all new.

There is no way I can lean it out on my own? Should I get it towed to the dyno? WHat are the chances of washing the rings out?

 

if its only that rich at idle, I wouldnt worry about it. unless you are just letting the car idle for hours on end in your driveway.

 

ok so i got some new info, took it for a cruis again and afrs stay between 12 and 14 most of the time although they due dip to 10.5 sometimes (cant watch it all the time!)

Im concerned with EGT's, regular driving im seeing egts between 800 and 1200F , they increase as i accelerate and plateau around 1100F , from what i read normal egts are 600-800.... so im I just detonating all over the place or are they so high cause im runnin rich?

Also i threw a CEL but after i turned the car off i lost it, im gonna take it for another spin tomorrow and see if i can generate it and pull it again....

 

more news from the front:

pulled the plugs after the drive to see how they looked and to my shock the #1 spark plug was gapped way to close (tab was touching the electrode thing). Im guessing this is a big part of my problem, cyl #1 probably wasnt combusting completely if it all.

What do you think of my plugs, they are in order I pulled them (4 to 1, left to right)



and just for fun:





wasnt very good lighting for pictures

 

normal EGTs can be a lot more than 1100 degrees.

sounds like you should just stop driving the car and get it tuned. if you have been driving it, its a broken in as its gonna get so leave it alone and get on the dyno.

 

ok so i regapped the plugs and now the idle is waaayyyyy better but its running even richer, im not getting any readout on the wideband at all, just says RICH, but the idle is noteably improved and it is no longer missing or bogging

 

if you have a widebadn why not just reburn a chip and lean out the map a little at idle?

 

hehe its hondata im scheduled for a tune today at 3pm but u know i just wanna get all the bugs out before then so i dont gottabe wrenchin on the dyno and on the dime

 

It's a basemap -- meaning its just so you can drive it to a tuner and get it knocked out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hehe its hondata im scheduled for a tune today at 3pm but u know i just wanna get all the bugs out before then so i dont gottabe wrenchin on the dyno and on the dime</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's good that you at least take the time to try and trouble shoot your issues before tuning. Props to you.

But yea... your problem is the base map. Base maps suck period. Good luck on the dyno

 

Everyone has such crappy basemaps, when I burned my own 2 years ago the car ran great...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everyone has such crappy basemaps, when I burned my own 2 years ago the car ran great...</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's probably because you are better than everyone on this board

 

When you can't see the white porcelain, you know you're running wayyyyyyy too rich. Electrode looks fine, but that's most likely because you pulled after cruising (where it is a little leaner). But yeah... wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy toooooo richhhhhhh.

 

S200 or S300? I'm assuming its worked out by now, but let me know if you need any help in the future as I'm local to you.

 

yup got tuned today car runs 100% btter. Made 200/170tq on 8.7psi and then the alternator belt snapped (too loose) so we had to call it a day.

Drove it around all night tho and it feels great, getting more tuning done for 18psi next weekend!

 

good to hear