Using nitrous with out shortning my engine life?
I ran a 70 shot through a single cam on a very frequent basis (bottle filling every two weeks max) and after a year and a half there wasn't even a hint of problems. I ended up pulling the motor to build it internally and it was clean as hell inside...no signs of increased wear by any means. 70 shot is definitely safe
any shot is safe...just need to tune accordingly
edit* i take that back...any shot is safe if tuned accordingly if the components can withstand the new power level
edit* i take that back...any shot is safe if tuned accordingly if the components can withstand the new power level
like the first guy, i rad a 50 shot for a year on my b18b, bone stock. Rebuilt the engine for some
boost last year, no sign of any abnormal wear. Although when playing with nitrous, you must check your plugs and timing on regular basis. A little too much advance and you will blow er up.
boost last year, no sign of any abnormal wear. Although when playing with nitrous, you must check your plugs and timing on regular basis. A little too much advance and you will blow er up.
to actually answer your question..... none. how do you spin your tires without wearing them out faster? would be a similar question. any power adder will potentially shorten engine life you are going to be basically racing it or ragging on it if you are using the spray which inevitably shortens engine life.....
that is an answer to the way you asked it.
that is an answer to the way you asked it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by agrn93ls »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to actually answer your question..... none. how do you spin your tires without wearing them out faster? would be a similar question. any power adder will potentially shorten engine life you are going to be basically racing it or ragging on it if you are using the spray which inevitably shortens engine life.....
that is an answer to the way you asked it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is an answer to the way you asked it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Trending Topics
i agree with that comment 100%....pretty much anything aftermarket added to a car shortens the engine life...its just the name of the game
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DJBpete »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree with that comment 100%....pretty much anything aftermarket added to a car shortens the engine life...its just the name of the game</TD></TR></TABLE> anything aftermarket?what about air freshners and carbon fiber hoods?
so your saying that a motor built with all aftermarket parts is gonna have a shorter life than a motor built with all oem parts?
so your saying that a motor built with all aftermarket parts is gonna have a shorter life than a motor built with all oem parts?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suck my DX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> anything aftermarket?what about air freshners and carbon fiber hoods?
so your saying that a motor built with all aftermarket parts is gonna have a shorter life than a motor built with all oem parts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
air freshners arent aftermarket. and you know that he meant things for the engine, otherwise i feel bad for you if you really thought he meant that adding an air freshner might shorten your engine life.
but yes, adding things a larger intake, larger exhaust, etc will shorten your engines life. theoretically, a motor with all titanium internals will have the same life or shorter as oem internals.
the reason that people put in forged pistons, etc is that they can take the abuse that 400+whp does to them and oem parts usually cant. that doesnt mean that they are gonna last longer, just means they can take more punishment..
but adding nitrous will usually substantially shorten your engines life. i dont want to start a debate because i know people throw nitrous in and drive for 100k+ but its a hit or miss game where you can usually bet your money on not getting as many miles as you would have without the nitrous
so your saying that a motor built with all aftermarket parts is gonna have a shorter life than a motor built with all oem parts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
air freshners arent aftermarket. and you know that he meant things for the engine, otherwise i feel bad for you if you really thought he meant that adding an air freshner might shorten your engine life.
but yes, adding things a larger intake, larger exhaust, etc will shorten your engines life. theoretically, a motor with all titanium internals will have the same life or shorter as oem internals.
the reason that people put in forged pistons, etc is that they can take the abuse that 400+whp does to them and oem parts usually cant. that doesnt mean that they are gonna last longer, just means they can take more punishment..
but adding nitrous will usually substantially shorten your engines life. i dont want to start a debate because i know people throw nitrous in and drive for 100k+ but its a hit or miss game where you can usually bet your money on not getting as many miles as you would have without the nitrous
Here we go with a dose of Honda-Tech PC talk....lol...holy hell. This place is getting rediculous.
Plain and simple...run the shot, don't worry about it. One step colder plug, 2 degrees retard per 50 shot above the first 50, run a safety switch if you can, don't do extremely long pulls, don't hit the spray below 3500, use a full throttle switch for safety, and watch the rev limiter.
Plain and simple...run the shot, don't worry about it. One step colder plug, 2 degrees retard per 50 shot above the first 50, run a safety switch if you can, don't do extremely long pulls, don't hit the spray below 3500, use a full throttle switch for safety, and watch the rev limiter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by agrn93ls »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to actually answer your question..... none. how do you spin your tires without wearing them out faster? would be a similar question. any power adder will potentially shorten engine life you are going to be basically racing it or ragging on it if you are using the spray which inevitably shortens engine life.....
that is an answer to the way you asked it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats about it.. it may still last a long time just going to age faster..
that is an answer to the way you asked it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats about it.. it may still last a long time just going to age faster..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here we go with a dose of Honda-Tech PC talk....lol...holy hell. This place is getting rediculous.
Plain and simple...run the shot, don't worry about it. One step colder plug, 2 degrees retard per 50 shot above the first 50, run a safety switch if you can, don't do extremely long pulls, don't hit the spray below 3500, use a full throttle switch for safety, and watch the rev limiter.</TD></TR></TABLE>
+1 FTW, anyone that actually knows how N2O works knows that all it does is speed the process of how fast your motor burns the fuel. speeding up the process is all you are doing, which does not increase engine wear, like said above, stay away from the rev limiter, dont spray under 2500ish RPM (higher the better), check your plugs after the first few times of spraying, learn to read spark plugs (really learn to read em as they are the ONLY tell tale sign of predetonation or a lean condition), not just looking at them and seeing if they are white or black.
and most importantly, STAY AWAY FROM REV LIMITER, the rev limiter just cuts fuel, and cutting fuel while spraying will result in your engine going BOOM.
Plain and simple...run the shot, don't worry about it. One step colder plug, 2 degrees retard per 50 shot above the first 50, run a safety switch if you can, don't do extremely long pulls, don't hit the spray below 3500, use a full throttle switch for safety, and watch the rev limiter.</TD></TR></TABLE>
+1 FTW, anyone that actually knows how N2O works knows that all it does is speed the process of how fast your motor burns the fuel. speeding up the process is all you are doing, which does not increase engine wear, like said above, stay away from the rev limiter, dont spray under 2500ish RPM (higher the better), check your plugs after the first few times of spraying, learn to read spark plugs (really learn to read em as they are the ONLY tell tale sign of predetonation or a lean condition), not just looking at them and seeing if they are white or black.
and most importantly, STAY AWAY FROM REV LIMITER, the rev limiter just cuts fuel, and cutting fuel while spraying will result in your engine going BOOM.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
+1 FTW, anyone that actually knows how N2O works knows that all it does is speed the process of how fast your motor burns the fuel. speeding up the process is all you are doing, which does not increase engine wear, like said above, stay away from the rev limiter, dont spray under 2500ish RPM (higher the better), check your plugs after the first few times of spraying, learn to read spark plugs (really learn to read em as they are the ONLY tell tale sign of predetonation or a lean condition), not just looking at them and seeing if they are white or black.
and most importantly, STAY AWAY FROM REV LIMITER, the rev limiter just cuts fuel, and cutting fuel while spraying will result in your engine going BOOM.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah like he said it wont shorten the life at all but if you hit the rev limiter you will blow it up. hmmmm. nope dosent shorten the life just kills it immediately by that theory.
oh and i used "N20" for a long, long time. and i have had them stay together and blow.......turbo, supercharge, all motor whatever if your beatin it its gonna break someday sooner than if you werent plain and simple.
end of damn story. just spray it and dont get retarded with it.
oh and to ^^^^^ increased combustion pressure and heat has to do something to the engine, and its definately not makin it last longer.
+1 FTW, anyone that actually knows how N2O works knows that all it does is speed the process of how fast your motor burns the fuel. speeding up the process is all you are doing, which does not increase engine wear, like said above, stay away from the rev limiter, dont spray under 2500ish RPM (higher the better), check your plugs after the first few times of spraying, learn to read spark plugs (really learn to read em as they are the ONLY tell tale sign of predetonation or a lean condition), not just looking at them and seeing if they are white or black.
and most importantly, STAY AWAY FROM REV LIMITER, the rev limiter just cuts fuel, and cutting fuel while spraying will result in your engine going BOOM.
</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah like he said it wont shorten the life at all but if you hit the rev limiter you will blow it up. hmmmm. nope dosent shorten the life just kills it immediately by that theory.
oh and i used "N20" for a long, long time. and i have had them stay together and blow.......turbo, supercharge, all motor whatever if your beatin it its gonna break someday sooner than if you werent plain and simple.
end of damn story. just spray it and dont get retarded with it.
oh and to ^^^^^ increased combustion pressure and heat has to do something to the engine, and its definately not makin it last longer.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by agrn93ls »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah like he said it wont shorten the life at all but if you hit the rev limiter you will blow it up. hmmmm. nope dosent shorten the life just kills it immediately by that theory.
oh and i used "N20" for a long, long time. and i have had them stay together and blow.......turbo, supercharge, all motor whatever if your beatin it its gonna break someday sooner than if you werent plain and simple.
end of damn story. just spray it and dont get retarded with it.
oh and to ^^^^^ increased combustion pressure and heat has to do something to the engine, and its definately not makin it last longer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
increased heat and combustion pressure are not harmful until the heat is to a point that preignition occurs (thus the reason for colder plugs and less timing)= less heat, so dont say its any more a problem than a boosted motor
also, i should have said, NITROUS will not INCREASE wear if used correctly, as with ANY other power adder. TUNE
oh and i used "N20" for a long, long time. and i have had them stay together and blow.......turbo, supercharge, all motor whatever if your beatin it its gonna break someday sooner than if you werent plain and simple.
end of damn story. just spray it and dont get retarded with it.
oh and to ^^^^^ increased combustion pressure and heat has to do something to the engine, and its definately not makin it last longer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
increased heat and combustion pressure are not harmful until the heat is to a point that preignition occurs (thus the reason for colder plugs and less timing)= less heat, so dont say its any more a problem than a boosted motor
also, i should have said, NITROUS will not INCREASE wear if used correctly, as with ANY other power adder. TUNE
QUOTE SCHARDBODY " so dont say its any more a problem than a boosted motor"
QUOTE AGRN93LS "turbo, supercharge, all motor, ( nitrous ) whatever if your beatin it its gonna break someday sooner than if you werent plain and simple. "
you dont read well i guess.
so your sayin if you run a piece of machinery harder than you would normally it will not wear faster??? so now i can abuse and or run all my shop equipment longer and harder and make it work _% harder and life expectancy will be the same no matter if i run it at 50% workload versus 80% ???
i like that idea.
like i said "increased combustion pressure and heat has to do something to the engine, and its definately not makin it last longer"
never said it will blow, or wear that much faster but it will increase wear to some extent. may be minor but it does. you cant argue that.
QUOTE AGRN93LS "turbo, supercharge, all motor, ( nitrous ) whatever if your beatin it its gonna break someday sooner than if you werent plain and simple. "
you dont read well i guess.
so your sayin if you run a piece of machinery harder than you would normally it will not wear faster??? so now i can abuse and or run all my shop equipment longer and harder and make it work _% harder and life expectancy will be the same no matter if i run it at 50% workload versus 80% ???
i like that idea.
like i said "increased combustion pressure and heat has to do something to the engine, and its definately not makin it last longer"
never said it will blow, or wear that much faster but it will increase wear to some extent. may be minor but it does. you cant argue that.
What will i need besides the nitrous kit? Dont i need something to retard the timing and get a chipped ecu so i can get it programmed on a dyno? Also if i had colder plugs when im not spraying wont my plugs foul? Same with the retarded timing, wont that mess up the engine when im not spraying?
Modified by zach1288 at 6:29 PM 4/11/2007
Modified by zach1288 at 6:29 PM 4/11/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92LSVTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i ran 75 shot on stock LSVTEC for 2 years, keep the rev limitr down, and get a good tune</TD></TR></TABLE>
I ran NGK bkr7e all the time, had my car tuned on the bottle on s200, made 163whp/133tq N/A and 218whp/205tq, never did anything else, other than run new plugs every time i went to teh track. best ET 13.4 @ 102 in a 2800lb DA
I ran NGK bkr7e all the time, had my car tuned on the bottle on s200, made 163whp/133tq N/A and 218whp/205tq, never did anything else, other than run new plugs every time i went to teh track. best ET 13.4 @ 102 in a 2800lb DA
The plugs will not foul.
Just retard at the distributor.
You will experience slightly less power with retarded timing off the bottle.
You should also get a window switch, and bottle heater.
Just retard at the distributor.
You will experience slightly less power with retarded timing off the bottle.
You should also get a window switch, and bottle heater.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by agrn93ls »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">QUOTE
you dont read well i guess.
so your sayin if you run a piece of machinery harder than you would normally it will not wear faster??? so now i can abuse and or run all my shop equipment longer and harder and make it work _% harder and life expectancy will be the same no matter if i run it at 50% workload versus 80% ???
i like that idea.
like i said "increased combustion pressure and heat has to do something to the engine, and its definately not makin it last longer"
never said it will blow, or wear that much faster but it will increase wear to some extent. may be minor but it does. you cant argue that. </TD></TR></TABLE>
actually i read quite well, you just dont comprehend well. i dont wanna turn this into an ARGUEMENT, but i will argue that one dyno pull from 2500rpm to redline is NO differant than another in terms of wear, considering the power is the same, and all other variables are the same. end of arguement.
you dont read well i guess.
so your sayin if you run a piece of machinery harder than you would normally it will not wear faster??? so now i can abuse and or run all my shop equipment longer and harder and make it work _% harder and life expectancy will be the same no matter if i run it at 50% workload versus 80% ???
i like that idea.
like i said "increased combustion pressure and heat has to do something to the engine, and its definately not makin it last longer"
never said it will blow, or wear that much faster but it will increase wear to some extent. may be minor but it does. you cant argue that. </TD></TR></TABLE>
actually i read quite well, you just dont comprehend well. i dont wanna turn this into an ARGUEMENT, but i will argue that one dyno pull from 2500rpm to redline is NO differant than another in terms of wear, considering the power is the same, and all other variables are the same. end of arguement.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooreBoost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The plugs will not foul.
Just retard at the distributor.
You will experience slightly less power with retarded timing off the bottle.
You should also get a window switch, and bottle heater.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you retard at the dizzy?
Also whats a window switch?
Just retard at the distributor.
You will experience slightly less power with retarded timing off the bottle.
You should also get a window switch, and bottle heater.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you retard at the dizzy?
Also whats a window switch?
Loosen the three bolts securing it and rotate towards the firewall, I believe. Double check that before you do anything.
You will also need a timing gun, get that at Wal-Mart, Discount, where ever, and research here on how to use it.
A window switch taps into your RPM signal and you set the switch to activate between certain RPMs. In other words, it will activate at say, 3,000, and turn off at 7,000, or where ever you want. This way, you wont activate too early and cause detonation, or a nitrous backfire, as well, you wont hit the rev limiter while at WOT, which is bad.
You will also need a timing gun, get that at Wal-Mart, Discount, where ever, and research here on how to use it.
A window switch taps into your RPM signal and you set the switch to activate between certain RPMs. In other words, it will activate at say, 3,000, and turn off at 7,000, or where ever you want. This way, you wont activate too early and cause detonation, or a nitrous backfire, as well, you wont hit the rev limiter while at WOT, which is bad.


