okay, so i just got the FMAX kit installed on my 99 honda accord . F23A1 VTEC. ive got the VAFC 2 and the stock exhaust, except for a aftermarket muffler. however, im only making around 160 hp at 7lbs of boost. what could be the problem? ive seen other accords with the same kit with nearly 230hp. please help.

 

stock exhaust especially if you have the cat on there. 2.5 all the way or 3" if you dont mind the drone.

 

does this fmax kit come w/ injectors?

 

can you provide more details on your fuel management system?

stock F23 puts down ~125 whp so you should be substantially higher than that.

 

my stereo can easily drown out the drone. however, i am looking to get 3 inch and Yd out to dual this summer. but i should still be seeing 200 easily from what im told. why would it be so low?

And 12secciv

It did come with some secondary 440 CC injectors run off of an injector controller.

 

B,

damn man. i KNOW you would know why. ive got that shitty FIC that comes with the kit until i can afford something better. t3/04 stage III .48 ball bearing, spearco intercooler, all the piping and the Evolution wastegate and the Raptor BOV, i have a MBC but its not hooked up.

 

HELP PLEASE.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99accordvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn man. i KNOW you would know why. ive got that shitty FIC that comes with the kit until i can afford something better. t3/04 stage III .48 ball bearing, spearco intercooler, all the piping and the Evolution wastegate and the Raptor BOV, i have a MBC but its not hooked up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

FIC = fuel injector controller? The MF2 unit right?

you're running the 2 injectors and the MF2 is wired in correctly?

do you have an AFR graph with the dyno runs? what's your AFR look like under boost?

You said you have a VAFC in your first post. Are you running the VAFC on the stock injectors or on larger ones?

More details please!

 

Yeah, B. FIC= fuel injector controller. the secondaries are wired up properly and are kicking in. I had it dyno tuned and they kep my AF constant. im at college and the sheet is at home, but its gorgeous across the boards. i dont have any upgraded injectors in my motor so im running the VAFC thru stockers.

 

very weird. is the AFC zero'd out or did the shop use that to fine tune?

when you say "gorgeous" on the AFR curve can you be more specific? 12:1 flat? 10:1?

what kind of dyno was it? if a mustang or 4wd dyno you could have slightly lower HP readings than you would if it were a dynojet, but even then 160 is definitely low for your setup.

are you sure you're seeing 7.5 psi of boost or is that just the WG spring rate? where is your WG getting vacuum from?

just FYI 230 hp on the F23 is a stretch at 7 psi using a piggyback, but I'd expect you to be up around 180-190ish.

 

okay. im seeing 7 lbs of boost on my gauge. vacuum source is coming from the TB. and its a constant 12:1 AFR. i dont know why its low. my VAFC was used for fine tuning.

 

your exhaust and a tune. Get a three inch custom down pipe, and 2.5 cat back. The muffler you have with stock exhaust will not allow the turbo to breath. The bigger piping needs to be immediatly after the turbo, hence the 3" down pipe. After that get some injectors and a chipped ecu with tune. the fmax stuff I heard gives problems.

 

i know of a guy who can do me a 3 inch exhaust for a good price. i should replace my stock injectors with what size? 750s? how much power do you think one could lose with an exhaust leak? i eventually want to run around 300-350 when im done. i mean, its only an f23 i dont expect much. shes all show and a little go.

 

the 750's are overkill for 300 hp, but you can never go too big. I would say 550's would be good. Get a walboro fuel pump or something that can flow some more, and get the 3" down pipe with the exhaust. It will make your car flow better and allow the turbo to stretch its legs and not bang into the backpressure caused byt the stock exhaust. The tune will allow you to run safely. The other two injectors that come with the fmax kit you can probably junk after you get the stuff described up top. But def get the downpipe and exhaust. That will def get you to atleast 200 and above. Good luck and post some results when done.

 

thanks man i will. do you think i could lose a decnt amount of power if i have an exhaust leak?

 

6 page essay procrastination BUMP

 

anyone know wtf is going on here?

 

I agree with drintegra, your exhaust is probably causing a major restriction. replace the downpipe/exhaust and get it retuned. if the AFR is good and it runs well then don't worry about it too much.

you never answered what kind of dyno the runs were done on, that can make a difference in the reported HP output as well.

 

oh ****, sorry man. it was a dynojet. model224X. idk. where can i get a larger downpipe by any chance? and what about the cat? and what kind of money are we talking here?

 

call a fabricator on ht to make you a custom one since I really have not seen too many for your setup. RLD, RCP, CCFAB many ht fabricators. The dp will probably run like 200 but it will be worth it. You will want to get a compression test b4 anything to make sure your motor is ok. ALso ensure that you are getting full boost. If the motor is fine go with the exhaust and then go with the down pipe. I am pretty sure the exhaust is Killing you, I have seen fmax kits make some decent power so hold off on the down pipe until you get serious. THen if you want more power after the exhaust follow the previous directions.

 

alright man thanks. how much does compression testing usually run? and how much time does that usually take?

 

you can buy a compression tester at vatozone for $25 and do a compression test in 15 minutes.

 

yeah thanks i saw a thread on it for instuctions on DIY. im goign to try it ASAP. what kind of mubers should i be looking for?

 

equal numbers are more important than the actual reading, as different compression testers will give slightly different readings. you want your compression on each cylinder to be within roughly ~10-15% of each other.

 

NO more then 20-25psi variation between all of the cyliders. Make sure the car has warmed up before the test, and apply a little oil to the tip of the tester that goes into the sparkplug hole to help seal. When you crank the motor make sure you are at full throttle when you crank. Good luck.