ugr manifold
i just wanted to share my experience with UGR turbo manifold on a b16a1
if you gonna have the compressor on the passenger side you have to shave allot. i took away so much on the block that i got a hole in to the flywheel.
It is also very difficult to check the oil level,
i have a Garrett t04e 60A/R
does anyone else have the same problem that i had?
if you gonna have the compressor on the passenger side you have to shave allot. i took away so much on the block that i got a hole in to the flywheel.
It is also very difficult to check the oil level,
i have a Garrett t04e 60A/R
does anyone else have the same problem that i had?
wow i have never had to notch it more than a drag kit. was there any way to mount it the other way? if you went inot the bell housing, id be skurd a little to drive that.
it is 4 bolt, but that shouldn't matter, i cant have it the other way, i have a full core radiator. i am looking for a radiator that is half size butt everyone is to high. my radiator is only 15,7" high
is the ugr manifold good for 400whp?
is the ugr manifold good for 400whp?
It the manifold just a typical cast one? Can you post a picture? That sucks that you had to notch that much just to get the turbo on there. How big is your compressor cover? You can make 400whp on a typical cast manifold
I'm using a Blox manifold and a T3/T4E with a 4 bolt turbine housing. I had to notch so much i made a hole to the bell housing. From what i understand the problem is the turbine housing. Almost all manifolds are designed to use the 5 bolt style.
Trending Topics
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 0
From: Lower East Side Holly, PA, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anton_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it is 4 bolt, but that shouldn't matter, i cant have it the other way, i have a full core radiator. i am looking for a radiator that is half size butt everyone is to high. my radiator is only 15,7" high
is the ugr manifold good for 400whp?</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah, it does matter that it's a 4-bolt. I would have flipped it around and put the downpipe on the other side.
is the ugr manifold good for 400whp?</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah, it does matter that it's a 4-bolt. I would have flipped it around and put the downpipe on the other side.
It matters alot actually. a five bolt and a four bolt position the turbo very differently. I have that manifold on a 5 bolt housing and it fits very well, very little shaving of the webbing was required. One is a tangential housing and the other is an on center housing.
I purposely bought a turbo with a 5 bolt housing because I was using that manifold. Pretty much all cast a/c manifolds are designed to use the five bolt housings.
I purposely bought a turbo with a 5 bolt housing because I was using that manifold. Pretty much all cast a/c manifolds are designed to use the five bolt housings.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmm96gsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, it does matter that it's a 4-bolt. I would have flipped it around and put the downpipe on the other side.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i cant flipp it. then the turbinehousing hit the radiator.
it is installed now, it just was a pain in the as to install it
i cant flipp it. then the turbinehousing hit the radiator.
it is installed now, it just was a pain in the as to install it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anton_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i cant flipp it. then the turbinehousing hit the radiator.
it is installed now, it just was a pain in the as to install it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe the manifold was desinged to mount the compressor the other way. and that why it dont work.
what does the 4 bolt/5bolt down pipe have to do with his compressor housing clearence issue?
you can get a half size radiator under 150$ these days. i would rather do that then cut that far into the webbing/casting.
i cant flipp it. then the turbinehousing hit the radiator.
it is installed now, it just was a pain in the as to install it
</TD></TR></TABLE>maybe the manifold was desinged to mount the compressor the other way. and that why it dont work.
what does the 4 bolt/5bolt down pipe have to do with his compressor housing clearence issue?
you can get a half size radiator under 150$ these days. i would rather do that then cut that far into the webbing/casting.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by agrn93ls »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what does the 4 bolt/5bolt down pipe have to do with his compressor housing clearence issue?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the entire turbine housing is different and positions the turbo different. if it were just a matter of having 1 less bolt it wouldn't matter.
i have the UGR manifold on my gsr and i have the comp on driver side with my 4 bolt. with a 1/2 radiator and a 3" dp, the clearance is tight but it works.
i would NEVER recommend this manifold as i had to cut notches in the bottom and my wg hits the head... this thing sucks ***.
the entire turbine housing is different and positions the turbo different. if it were just a matter of having 1 less bolt it wouldn't matter.
i have the UGR manifold on my gsr and i have the comp on driver side with my 4 bolt. with a 1/2 radiator and a 3" dp, the clearance is tight but it works.
i would NEVER recommend this manifold as i had to cut notches in the bottom and my wg hits the head... this thing sucks ***.
My experience with this manifold was good. Turbo fits great (5 bolt housing), plenty of room for a 3" dp and my tial wastegate fits perfect with no elbow. Boost control is very good with no creep. I did have to notch the webbing a bit but nothing more than your typical drag manifold install.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_KJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My experience with this manifold was good. Turbo fits great (5 bolt housing), plenty of room for a 3" dp and my tial wastegate fits perfect with no elbow. Boost control is very good with no creep. I did have to notch the webbing a bit but nothing more than your typical drag manifold install.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what motor
what motor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ndogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the entire turbine housing is different and positions the turbo different. if it were just a matter of having 1 less bolt it wouldn't matter.
i have the UGR manifold on my gsr and i have the comp on driver side with my 4 bolt. with a 1/2 radiator and a 3" dp, the clearance is tight but it works.
i would NEVER recommend this manifold as i had to cut notches in the bottom and my wg hits the head... this thing sucks ***.</TD></TR></TABLE>
would you say then that that is the intended way to mount the turbo with this manifold?
the entire turbine housing is different and positions the turbo different. if it were just a matter of having 1 less bolt it wouldn't matter.
i have the UGR manifold on my gsr and i have the comp on driver side with my 4 bolt. with a 1/2 radiator and a 3" dp, the clearance is tight but it works.
i would NEVER recommend this manifold as i had to cut notches in the bottom and my wg hits the head... this thing sucks ***.</TD></TR></TABLE>
would you say then that that is the intended way to mount the turbo with this manifold?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by agrn93ls »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
would you say then that that is the intended way to mount the turbo with this manifold?</TD></TR></TABLE>
if using a 4 bolt, IMO its better to mount it compressor on driver side as you don't have to grind the **** out of the block (you don't have to grind it at all). but if you have AC, i'm not sure how it would work. the best thing would be to just get a 5 bolt.
would you say then that that is the intended way to mount the turbo with this manifold?</TD></TR></TABLE>
if using a 4 bolt, IMO its better to mount it compressor on driver side as you don't have to grind the **** out of the block (you don't have to grind it at all). but if you have AC, i'm not sure how it would work. the best thing would be to just get a 5 bolt.






). I'm sure you;ll be fine.
precision sc60