jdkornlp

I just got my greddy kit on my si. Everything with the turbo is pretty much perfect. 2 major problems though...
1) no more radiator...5 minutes into driving my engine temp was almost redlined. I pop the hood, and the fan isnt spinning at all. So, i wired the fan directly to the battery 2 make it spin constantly. It worked and got me home. I've been told of a few ways to fix this problem but dont know if any of them are right or possible problems. Someone said that i had drained the coolant wrong. Something about there being bleeder valves for the radiator hoses... All i did was pull of the radiator drain cap at the bottom of the radiator and then refilled it when i was done. Also, I was told that the relay just went bad.. But how the hell could that have happened? Any other suggestions?

2) When i go WOT my engine rpm goes up fast as hell, then when i let off the gas and the pressure in the piping is released, the rpm goes back down to wherever it should be. For example, ill be drivin in 5th gear at 30 mph, and then if i floor it, it will go to like 7k rpm before im even at like 40 mph but as soon as i let off the gas, the rpm drops back down.

If anyone can help me out with any of these problems i'd really appreciate it. Thanks.

NateTEG95

#1 You've probably got the right idea, i know a couple people with their fans wired to be on all the time that run w/o problems.

#2 sounds like you're ready for a new clutch.

redboost10

number 2 sounds like your clutch but i could be wrong, cuz when i had direct port thats what my car was doing and i put a 6 puck clutch in adn then it nearly threw the radio outta my dash

fxrob

First of all, sounds like you have air in your cooling system. Try and bleed the air out of it when it is cold.

2nd, it sounds like your clutch is wasted.

redboost10

when its cold you gotta "burp" it, right?

MaxSterling

you need to bleed the coolant correctly, the reason idle is shaky is b/c your ecu uses coolant temps to help idle car. so if you have an air bubble in there it will mess up you idle and even cause overheating

jdkornlp

Thanks guys for the quick responses, but my idle isn't shaky. It's only when im WOT in full boost that it just shoots up in high rpm's. Also, What is the proper way to bleed? Someoen told me about bleeder valves behind the motor near the top radiator hose but i couldn't find anything. I thought the proper way was to just drain it from the drain bolt, then refill it, and let it run with the cap off and wait til the bubbles stop popping.

fxrob

Turn you heater on when you bleed the coolant also. What kind of car do you have and what yr is it?

jdkornlp

It's a 1999 Honda Civic Si. But even if i do drain teh coolant properly, that wouldnt have anything to do with the fan coming on would it?

fxrob

Yes it would, if there is air trapped in the cooling system the fan switch may not turn the fans on. I'm not positive if the 99's have bleeder valves. Just run the motor with the radiator cap off and the heater on. Once you start getting hot air out of the vents and the level in the radiator doesn't go down any more you should be ok. Running you fans off the batter is not necessary and will prematurely wear out the fan motor.

baphomet

I really hope you have a helms manual.

redboost10

im almost positive the 99 si dosnt have bleeder valves, ive looked and looked again and i couldnt find it in haynes manual

MaxSterling

99si is b-series engine. it has to have coolant bleeder....look at top radiator hose, trace it back to the engine. somewhere right after that is and nipple to bleend coolant

norcalcrx

When the car is cold take off the radiator cap. Turn your heater on full blast. Start the car and let it warm up to normal temp while adding coolant to keep the radiator full. After that you should be good to go. Sounds like you need a clutch.

jdkornlp

I'm like 90% sure that there is no bleeder. Why would i have to bleed it anyway after draining it. What would that do? release pressure from the lines even tho they are already disconnected?

norcalcrx

You get air pockets in the lines when you drain the coolant. Even though the radiator is empty you still have coolant in the motor and heater core. When you refill it air pockets develop and they need to be bled from the system. If the are not you will get the problems that you are haveing now. Coolant temp wont work correctly, thermostat wont open properly and the fan wont work right.

MaxSterling

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdkornlp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm like 90% sure that there is no bleeder. Why would i have to bleed it anyway after draining it. What would that do? release pressure from the lines even tho they are already disconnected?</TD></TR></TABLE>

b/c the top radiator hose is the highest pt on your coolant sytem and air will always be trapped there(air rise to highest pt, you seen movies with crews stuck in sinking shipps). unless you bleed it out via this nipple.

tegasaurus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdkornlp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm like 90% sure that there is no bleeder. Why would i have to bleed it anyway after draining it. What would that do? release pressure from the lines even tho they are already disconnected?</TD></TR></TABLE>

when you drain the coolant, where there was fluid in the radiator and hoses air is now. So when you fill the coolant Back into it, Air bubbles (big ones, more like air pockets) get trapped in the motor. Best way to bleed a coolant system is this:

Take the radiator cap off, fill with coolant as best you can, squeeze the hoses, fill with a little more coolant, squeeze hoses, fill, squeeze, fill etc until no more bubbles surface. Start you car wit hthe cap off, let it idle for a couple of minutes
then squeeze some more and fill. It can take a little while but your car will definatly stop overheating.

-Ryan

jdkornlp

Well, if anyone has pics of where this bleeder valve is that'd be great. I spent a good amount of time looking for it 2night and couldn't find it anywhere.

Mr. Softee

also squeezing the hoses makes weird noses that may invoke insane laughter

jdkornlp

Damn, this site is good. Glad to finally find a forum with people who like to help instead of just talk ish. Thanks alot guys. I appreciate all the help, ill try this 2morro and let u kno how it goes.

Archidictus

It may not be a bad idea to leave your fan with it's direct wiring: The turbokit will definately run you hotter.

Yeah, as far as the coolant goes, everyone has definately told you how to solve the problem. Air pockets are no joke and they can ruin your day in a hurry.

jdkornlp

o yea...that definately ruined my day, especially after noticing how great the turbo was working and having no leaks or anything and then all of a sudden my engine starts to overheat. Thank god i caught that in time cuz i wasnt even paying attention to my engine temp.

I Like Boost

If your RPMs go up and your MPH dosn't you need a new clutch. Good luck fixing you problems. I'm pretty close to springs, have you ever seen my black turbo integra?

Mr. Softee

i used to run with no fans, at all and i never overheated at all. make sure you have enough coolant and enough water
sam