TheOdd001

Just finished routing oil supply and drain lines for my turbo. This is my first time and I'm wondering if anyone see anything wrong with the way I did it. Here are some pictures:











Thanks for taking a look.

Gb-lude

looks ok to me, but are u sure you used the right thread on the T in the block? seems like its not tightened properly.. its BSPT

Kyle R

iTrader: (1)

That is a strange looking T fitting for the feed line.

TheOdd001

I did thread it in as far as possible. What t-fitting is usually used?

Kyle R

iTrader: (1)

Nothing is necessarily wrong with the one you're using. It just looks different than the ones that I usually see. Setup looks good (feed/return)

shifty35

Looks good to me, but I probably would have tried to go around the engine rather than over it with the feedline - may want to use some clamps and standoffs to make sure it doesn't rub on anything.

TheOdd001

Today I added oil and checked for leaks I cranked it over several times without spark and it took a good while for the oil pump to prime and i finally got oil out of the feed line for the turbo. No leaks! Heres a video I took:

Kyle R

iTrader: (1)

Sweet.

coneheadsracing

Make sure your feed line doesn't rub you spark plug wires, that would make for a nice miss fire eventually. Also, is that a ball bearing turbo??

TheOdd001

Yes its a ball bearing turbo... why do you ask?

dpetro1

let me start by saying your set-up looks nice but here is my feedback...

oil feed line will work fine but IMO you should have routed it differently (from a looks standpoint).

as for the return what type of hose is that? is it rated for oil? if not it will disintegrate with a quickness leaving you with a nasty oil leak. even if the hose is rated for oil it will most likely develop a leak from the lower hose clamp. why not run stainless line and AN fittings? (or at leak push-lok stuff). peace of mind knowing you have parts that will basically last forever and never leak

lastly, you may be able to get a slightly better angle for your return line if you rotate the return flange/fitting out towards the front of the car just a bit

TheOdd001

Well this is my first and probably only turbo install I will ever do. I got a "turbo kit" that came with everything I "needed". For right now I'm taking my time with the install and learning as I go. I tossed the extra fuel injectors, controller, and MSD timing controller that came with the kit after doing some research and bought a P72 with hondata S300 and RC 660 injectors which opened up a big can of learning for me even more.

I have thought about ways I can upgrade other things to improve on the kit but for right now I'm just getting it setup and getting it put together so it runs nice. I most likely will always be upgrading pieces and parts.

I know exactly what u mean about the return line and I didnt even think about rotating the center of the turbo to kick that fitting out a bit, thanks for the tip.

Today I also revved the engine up from idle (900rpm) to 3000rpm with the turbo just sitting on the exhaust with no charge piping or exhaust pipe just to see how it spooled up, I took a video, I think its pretty cool! I do know that it will be different once the back pressure from the exhaust and the suction from the charge piping is hooked up but I still think its cool. Take a look:

TheOdd001

Uh ohh... I installed the downpipe today and started the car, still with no charge pipe, so no boost yet. When I revved the engine up a couple times I went over to look at the turbo and this is what I saw on the discharge of the compressor:



I'm guessing this is not a good thing? Oil blowing by the seals?

dpetro1

isnt that gold fitting a restrictor?

also what about that return hose? is it rated for oil?

street_ride14

your H23 motor will not like that log manifold anywhere after 4000 rpm.

Are you using an oil restrictor on that inlet line ? ..
With BB turbos its almost a must to use one, or you will have a result similar to what you posted above .. oil in exhaust housing, oil getting past the seal, black smoke out the exhaust.

Did you buy this turbo used ?

TheOdd001

I bought this T3/T4 turbonetics turbo brand new and I asked about using a pressure restrictor on the turbonetics forum and was told it was not necessary. The fitting on the turbo came installed on the turbo from the factory. I just thought of something... Could this be due to the fact that I installed the downpipe? Now the turbine section would be seeing some back pressure but the compressor side is free flowing. So I'm thinking maybe the pressure from the turbine side was pushing oil into the free flowing compressor side?

dpetro1

if the turbo is ball bearing then it needs a restrictor

Kyle R

iTrader: (1)

I agree.

DUKE LADUKE

I didn't need a restrictor on my 30r. I asked ATP . They said if it was burning oil then I would. But I haven't had any issues with it at all.

dpetro1

your gt30r may have a built-in restrictor. all ball bearing turbos should use a restrictor

TheOdd001

http://turboneticsinc.com/forum/tech...ure-t3-t4.html

This was from the turbonetics website 2 years ago.

dpetro1

From the Turbonetics FAQ

Q: How is a turbocharger lubricated? Where does it come from?
A: A turbocharger is lubricated with regular engine oil. It comes from anywhere that you can provide clean filtered oil to it. Usually this is anywhere after the oil filter, before the oil gets to the block. Many turbochargers are oiled however from a fitting tapped into the block itself. As long as you have filtered, cool, and sufficiciently pressured oil your turbo will be happy. Note: Oil PSI should be at least around 20-30 PSI at idle and 50-70 psi under boost. Race applications do not apply here.

Your care most likely makes more than 70psi of pressure, especially when cold. The only real way to know is to test pressure at the oil feed inlet, then decide if you should add a restrictor. Bottom line, oil shouldnt leak past the seals and high oil pressure is the only reason I know of that would cause it

TheOdd001

I have the honda dealers maintenance manual and it states:

Engine Oil Temperature: 176'F
Engine Oil Pressure:
At ldle: 70 kPa (0.7 kg/cm2, 10.0 psi) minimum
At 3,000 rpm: 350 kPa (3.5 kg/cm2, 50.0 psi) minimum

I doubt the pressures are a lot higher than that. I don't think my engine oil pressure is out of the range from the turbonetics FAQ.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Turbonetics uses Ceramic ball-bearings. Tolerances are a little different. Most use a restrictor, some people don't. It is not the same as a steel ball-bearing cartridge

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

hondas are notorious for higher oil pressures. Your oil is most definatly what was stated above. That is a guideline for minimum oil pressures, its not saying thats your actual oil pressures. only true way to tell is with a guage but generally as stated above thats what you will find.