Turbo and High compression pistons, will it work?
I have a JDM B16A engine and i swapped out the PR3 pistons with A0 P73 pistons and the rods are the original PR3 rods. What is the maximum about of boost will i be able to push (if any)? I am looking at a 10psi turbo right now but i have no idea how it will go with my pistons. Please help!
I have a JDM B16A engine and i swapped out the PR3 pistons with A0 P73 pistons and the rods are the original PR3 rods. What is the maximum about of boost will i be able to push (if any)? I am looking at a 10psi turbo right now but i have no idea how it will go with my pistons. Please help!
I'd search through the archives and see if you can find some additional information on what is exactly feasible for your build
Good Luck!
The 2ZZ-GE is 1.8L and is 11.5:1. We supercharge them to 300ish to the wheels on pump gas. I use 93 octane.
This requires about 10-12 PSI. and I think some have gone up to about 330WHP on stock motor. The B18C5, which is of course 1.8L, is 10.6:1 and I know people take those up to 300+HP on stock motors regularly.
So yes, high compression and forced induction work really well together. But your ceiling is greatly reduced compared to a low compression motor. However the high compression motor will still respond well while in vacuum and will be more effecient. I wouldn't look at from a "boost" perspective but more a power perspective. With 1.6L, rule of thumb says your gonna be lower then what the 1.8's can do.
According to this webpage it says P73 in a B16 should be about 10.8:1. Does that sound right? Just a wild guess pulled from my ***, but I think 300WHP would be a good goal.
This requires about 10-12 PSI. and I think some have gone up to about 330WHP on stock motor. The B18C5, which is of course 1.8L, is 10.6:1 and I know people take those up to 300+HP on stock motors regularly.
So yes, high compression and forced induction work really well together. But your ceiling is greatly reduced compared to a low compression motor. However the high compression motor will still respond well while in vacuum and will be more effecient. I wouldn't look at from a "boost" perspective but more a power perspective. With 1.6L, rule of thumb says your gonna be lower then what the 1.8's can do.
According to this webpage it says P73 in a B16 should be about 10.8:1. Does that sound right? Just a wild guess pulled from my ***, but I think 300WHP would be a good goal.
The longevity of the set up will be based on the quality of the tune.
You can use both boost and high compression pistons, but will require a really good tune, so pick your tuner carefully or risk
You can use both boost and high compression pistons, but will require a really good tune, so pick your tuner carefully or risk
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My set-up produced 387 whp and 225 ft-lbs @ 9000 rpm on 93 octane @11 lbs of boost.
The set-up:
Drivetrain-
Block- B18C1, OEM gsr crank + rods, 81.5 mm RS machine pistons (PTW 0.002"), OEM main bearings (bearing clearance 0.0018"), and ACL rod bearings (bearing clearance 0.0018")
Head- B16A2, stock port, stock valves
VT- Supertech springs H1002D, and 2002 rsx type-s retainers
Cams- Pro2 intake and Blox C exhaust
TB- Professional Products 68 mm
Ignition- Stock Dizzy, wires, and NGK 8's
Fuel Delivery- Walbro 255 and ID1000
EMS- OBD-1 converison, chipped P28, neptune'd
Trans- S4C, cable to hydro bracket, and CC stg 2 clutch
Turbocharger-
Turbo- Holset H1C model 3531456, 18 cm^2 exhaust housing with 3" v-band (DIY)
Manifold- Mini-ramhorn 1.5" sch 10 fitting (DIY), (Importdps)
Wastegate- Tial 38 mm
Oiling- GE Vtec sandwich plate, -4AN stainless braid (feedside), 12 mm x 1.5 to -4AN flare, -10AN stainless braid (return side)
Hotside charge piping- 2.5" Aluminum piping (Dynamic Performance)
Coldside charge piping - 3.0" ALuminum piping (Dynamic Performance)
Intercooler- Precision 600 Hp (Importdps)
BOV- Tial 50 mm
Map sensor - GM 3 bar
Downpipe- 3.0" stainless steel (IMW)
Exhaust- 3.0" stainless steel (Synapse Motorsports)
Parts (Importdps, Xenocron, and Verocious)
Tuning (IMW)
And the plots


Please note: high compression and big cams on 93. Follow this recipe and you will not have a problem.
The set-up:
Drivetrain-
Block- B18C1, OEM gsr crank + rods, 81.5 mm RS machine pistons (PTW 0.002"), OEM main bearings (bearing clearance 0.0018"), and ACL rod bearings (bearing clearance 0.0018")
Head- B16A2, stock port, stock valves
VT- Supertech springs H1002D, and 2002 rsx type-s retainers
Cams- Pro2 intake and Blox C exhaust
TB- Professional Products 68 mm
Ignition- Stock Dizzy, wires, and NGK 8's
Fuel Delivery- Walbro 255 and ID1000
EMS- OBD-1 converison, chipped P28, neptune'd
Trans- S4C, cable to hydro bracket, and CC stg 2 clutch
Turbocharger-
Turbo- Holset H1C model 3531456, 18 cm^2 exhaust housing with 3" v-band (DIY)
Manifold- Mini-ramhorn 1.5" sch 10 fitting (DIY), (Importdps)
Wastegate- Tial 38 mm
Oiling- GE Vtec sandwich plate, -4AN stainless braid (feedside), 12 mm x 1.5 to -4AN flare, -10AN stainless braid (return side)
Hotside charge piping- 2.5" Aluminum piping (Dynamic Performance)
Coldside charge piping - 3.0" ALuminum piping (Dynamic Performance)
Intercooler- Precision 600 Hp (Importdps)
BOV- Tial 50 mm
Map sensor - GM 3 bar
Downpipe- 3.0" stainless steel (IMW)
Exhaust- 3.0" stainless steel (Synapse Motorsports)
Parts (Importdps, Xenocron, and Verocious)
Tuning (IMW)
And the plots


Please note: high compression and big cams on 93. Follow this recipe and you will not have a problem.
one of boys car is lsv with a gsr head on the p73 pistons on just arp rod bolts and arp headstuds making 335 on 11 psi on 93 for the last 2 years
I have a JDM B16A engine and i swapped out the PR3 pistons with A0 P73 pistons and the rods are the original PR3 rods. What is the maximum about of boost will i be able to push (if any)? I am looking at a 10psi turbo right now but i have no idea how it will go with my pistons. Please help!
yea my compression right now is at 10.8:1 not 11.1:1...i have the USDM P73 pistons not the JDM ones...i also forgot to mention i have the ARP Head bolts on my car now if that matters? I am not really looking to get crazy HP out of this, i just got a great deal on a turbo and i dont want go ahead and put it on my engine right away not knowing how it will react with my pistons, i dont want any bent rods or mess up my engine in any way because i just rebuilt it about 2000 miles ago
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,091
Likes: 28
From: the internet and I WILL STEP ON YOU
your compression is not 10.8 or 11:1, its right around 10.0:1 because the piston you put in has a SMALLER dome than the original piston. so the OPs motor is a b16 with less compression than stock. its good for 300whp give or take a little on pump safely.
I have a JDM B16A engine and i swapped out the PR3 pistons with A0 P73 pistons and the rods are the original PR3 rods. What is the maximum about of boost will i be able to push (if any)? I am looking at a 10psi turbo right now but i have no idea how it will go with my pistons. Please help!
10.04:1 according to Zeal Auto Works. That's not bad. Stock internals are said to be good for about 250-300 reliably. Yes people like dantamparacer push them farther, but their life will be short lived as he said.
Everyone says to lower compression, although when you lower compression you have to run more boost to make the same amount of power. If you just have more compression, it will make more power sooner. The importance of a very good tune just becomes very apparent.
Everyone says to lower compression, although when you lower compression you have to run more boost to make the same amount of power. If you just have more compression, it will make more power sooner. The importance of a very good tune just becomes very apparent.
It's big cams, high compression tubular manifold, big turbine housing, good flowing downpipe and exhaust (catless). Once you have cams, it needs to scavenge, and you are making power from good efficiency and not brute cylinder filling. Anything that works against scavenging, you are looking for trouble!
So imagine your current setup, but with a GT2871R, it will not run well at all regardless how big the cams are
You are missing the other half.. Big cams + high compression is good, but if you had a log manifold and a 2.5" exhaust it will blow into pieces very shortly.
It's big cams, high compression tubular manifold, big turbine housing, good flowing downpipe and exhaust (catless). Once you have cams, it needs to scavenge, and you are making power from good efficiency and not brute cylinder filling. Anything that works against scavenging, you are looking for trouble!
So imagine your current setup, but with a GT2871R, it will not run well at all regardless how big the cams are
It's big cams, high compression tubular manifold, big turbine housing, good flowing downpipe and exhaust (catless). Once you have cams, it needs to scavenge, and you are making power from good efficiency and not brute cylinder filling. Anything that works against scavenging, you are looking for trouble!
So imagine your current setup, but with a GT2871R, it will not run well at all regardless how big the cams are

this is the only person in this thread that even remotely read the ops setup.
your compression is not 10.8 or 11:1, its right around 10.0:1 because the piston you put in has a SMALLER dome than the original piston. so the OPs motor is a b16 with less compression than stock. its good for 300whp give or take a little on pump safely.
your compression is not 10.8 or 11:1, its right around 10.0:1 because the piston you put in has a SMALLER dome than the original piston. so the OPs motor is a b16 with less compression than stock. its good for 300whp give or take a little on pump safely.
should be even less if memory serves. the difference between jdm and usdm itr is .4 point. i thought the pr3 aka b16 pistons were slightly taller than jdm itr
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