ok i am not new to the honda world but i am somewhat new to the fi world as i have never owned or built a turboed car and now i am in the process and befor i really get into it i would like advice i am goin to start by saying what i plan to run and what i would like to make so please tell me if u think i should change something or if what i am about to do has been proven to fail i have been reading threads for almost a year and just can never find everything i wanna know so here goes

to start this is all going into a 2000 gsr motor with gsr cable trany with obx lsd into a 1990 honda crx si

ALREADY OWN
wiseco 9-1 comp pistons
eagle h beam rods
twisted ramhorn manifold"a legit 600$ manifold not ebay junk"
tial 38mm wastegate
apexi bov "old school but in good workign order"
front mount intercool not sure of exact dimensions but fills the large hole in my bumper perfectly
edilbrock 68mm throttle body
skunk 2 pro series intake manifold
msd blaster coil "original and blaster 3 not sure which one would be better
msd 8.5 mm wires with bosch plat 4s
aem fuel rail and regualtor
stage 3 act clutch
fedanza 7lb flywheel
unorthadox underdrive pully
arp head studs
chiped p28 with my current tune running obd1 i think with hondata will be profesionaly dino tuned when done

PLAN TO BUY
walbro 255 fuel pump
acl bearings all around
arm main studs
750cc injectors
intercooler piping

i plan to run the car on e85 since i have been told it will run the motor colder i want to make between 400 and 500whp and i already have allot of money into this as u can see from the parts list and i plan to keep the car a long time so i wanna do this right so please let me know if i am doing something wrong or forgetting something very important any imput would be greatly appreciated thanks guys

 

IMO it sounds like you have a pretty good base, headed in the right direction... however, few things-

ditch the UR underdrive pulley, they dont work well at all... pick up a real dampener, I chose an ATI but there are others. e85 will require you to run a much more efficient fuel setup than what you have listed to make 400-500 whp... when talking to my tuner about it, he said it requires about a 40% increase in fuel delivery to make the same power as regular gasoline... I wouldnt worry about going to an external coil unless for some reason you absolutely have to, completely stock ignition is proven to be reliable in the hp range you're looking for and I made well over that on a full-race oem replacement distributor, and use NGK wires and Plugs with it. your tuner can help you decide exactly which ones he would want you to use, but I would guess you would use a 9, which is what I am using. $1.99 at any auto parts store, really cant beat that.

other than those small issues, I think you're on the way to having a real nice setup man. just don't forget that tuning is the key to all high performance engines, especially our turbo motors. get it all together and you'll have a lot of fun with it.

 

well i already have an original msd blaster coil all hooked up and its working great so i figured just run with it, now to run the e85 is it worth it? what would i have to bump up to use it and would i be able to get the same out of 93 octain iv heard that if i use e85 i will suck down gas like no tomarow but im ok with that this isnt my dd or anything i only drive it when its time to play and as far as tuning i feel the same my buddy keeps trying to just let him tune it on the street but id rather pay the 200 bucks and let someone who has tuned 100s just get it right the 1st time and all the mods besides turbo stuff is already in place on my car stock internal gsr made 180whp

 

You won't make 500 on e85 with injectors that small... you need 1000s at least
.. e85 takes a lot of fuel compared to e10 (normal pump gas) and last time I checked walbro 255s were not e85 compatible plus you'll need a larger pump to compensate for the additional fuel you'll need.

And as previously stated ditch the under drive pulley... it has no harmonic dampening and you'll kill a motor quickly... at least run the stock pulley or look into ati or fluidampr.

You'll probably need at least a gt32 variant to make your power goals, or a gt3076 if you want more response.

Also just because you paid 600 doesn't mean the manifold isn't an eBay special... post pics. As most twisted designs were eBay china manifiods

 

what size turbo are you planning on running?

 

Welcome to the Honda-Tech community. perhaps I'll comment gently here.

If its working, go ahead and use it. It really depends upon the purpose of the car that you intend to use it for. There's nothing wrong with the stock components if going for a bit of drag racing once in a while, but eventually the ICM and ignitor can wear out, so its ok to use something a bit more robust. What you have is fine for now.



That's the trick. You'll need a different pump and much larger injectors than for that for 93 Octane, and because of the lower BTUs , expect to burn though that a bit faster than anything 93 octane has to offer. It is alcohol, however, which allows for a more volatile burn, and allows you to run more pressure, but there are other alternatives to use. Look to your location, you tuner's recommendations, and the pros and cons of E85-E95.. That's for a different discussion altogether

Yes, that's true, but even on spirited days you must ask yourself if this is worth the additional time and cost for refueling for the type of driving you do. Only you can answer that one.

You'll spend more than that.. Tuning on both the street for the partial throttle as well as on the dynomometer for higher end testing is paramount to get the best of both worlds. Try not to use "buddies", "peeps", "homies", "dunnies", "this guy" or other unknowns when it comes to tuning the car. You want to do this right the first time with the correct hardware and software, so don't waste your time. It'll be expensive.. live with it.

 

i was planing on running a 60 trim t3 t4 honestly was probly going to buy a 100$ ebay for now unless i can get something decent used a friend is running one and isnt having a problem with it and hes had it for 2 years i know its not the best way to go but i dont have the money for a good one at this time and as far as tuning my local shop tuned my car last time for 200 so i figured he would do it for that again now if i cant make the power i want on e85 will i be able to on 93 with just the internals listed and stock head im not looking to upgrade my hole valve train is there any key componets that fail befor others like the keepers fail befor the valves ect? and the reason i didnt think it was an ebay was the way its made all the ebays look cheep and are thin walled and thin tubing this one is beefy and just really dont look the same i have a xspower manifold as well and the quality is just way different ill try to post a pic soon still havent figured out how yet lol

 

Normally i wouldn't comment on stuff that has been discussed several times but since your post is well written & you seem to have 90% of a solid turbo kit i'll, i'll add what little feedback I can.

The other guys have said most of it the good stuff so far.
BTW I have a turbo gsr EF too. hehe




E85 consumption in WOT is pretty radical when you compare it to just 92-93octane.
However don't let it scare you when it comes to making the power goals your after.
My experiance with E85 vs. 93octane.

I normally fill up 10gallons at a time on my ef.
On my NA ef gsr I driven nicely hitting vtec once in a while I would get 290 miles per tank. If I drive it hard (say on a race weekend, weekend were there's a car meet) I would notice about 240 miles per tank.

With E85 and turbo (stock gsr 400whp, full boost around 4800-4900rpms)
I get about 260 miles full tank driving like a civil adult, no boosting period.
If I beat on the car a bit more on a fun weekend or weekend events I'll get like 190-200 miles.

MPG on e85 is based on having nicer injectors like FIC, ID, DW injectors which a good tuner will be able to fine tune idle, low rpms and low/medium load...you can lean it out a bit with e85 with out worrying about egt getting too hot.

If you want +400whp on E85 you'll need 1000cc.
I had PTE 780cc injectors and I was at 90% injector duty cycle at 310whp 10psi.

As for fuel pumps...
My walbro was new, it lasted 1year on e85 (i stored it on 1/2 tank of e85) for 5 months.
When I took it out and put it on the dyno to turn up the boost, my fuel pressure would be 20psi at idle, go up to 40psi with some load & then at 6000rpm WOT fuel pump would crap out and fuel pressure drop to 20psi.

I would of bought a DW320 intake pump for $125 (love their customer service & no BS warantee) but my friend evo10 maxed out his new walbro 400, so he gave it to me for free (he went up to intank aeromotive 1000 hehe). Walbro states their 400 pump is designed to be e85 friendly. I've had it for 6 months now. No issues. We'll see how it holds up next summer cause i'll be put though a lot of abuse.

Skip the ARP main studs.
They are not spendy but you'll find that torquing them down and sending the block off to get the mains linehoned will be $150-250 (depending on where you go).
OEM mains are fine. I'd only go ARP if I could get machining for free or if I was shooting for +700whp.

act stage 3...i honestly haven't seen any turbo guys run that clutch in a long time.
As long as it's puck clutch it should be fine for a while.

Tuning will be in the $300-350 range depending if things go smoothly (no boost leaks, electrical issues, fuel issues).

Tuning a NA car...$150-200ish... in and out.

stock head is fine at this stage of your build. It's not a weakpoint you have to worry about. Sure you could upgrade some parts for piece of mind or more power. The ONLY thing I would upgrade is valvesprings. I have rocketmotorsports snapfit dual valvesprings 55lbs seat pressure ($150ish) on my gsr with stock seats, retainers & keepers. I did notice my engine spool just a hair quicker. Maybe it was just in my head. lol But it's piece of mind when racing.

Anything above 300whp on turbo cars I've seen create a good amount of crank pressure. So I would sugguest a catch can setup with something like 1 -10an or 2 -8an size hose venting to catch can.


If you haven't picked a turbo yet.... I would highly sugguest the STS silversurfer or GT3540B turbo.

 

I had a t3/t4 ebay turbo on my GSR, worked fine for a few years but now it's smoking. I barely drive the car and maybe have 10k miles on it, which is nothing for a turbo.
IMHNSE go with a GOOD NAMED turbo. You will end up spending the same down the road,
worst case too is the turbo fails and messes up your motor.
SHODAN sells a quality turbo and knowledge to help your 500hp quest.

 

honestly I wouldnt go much past 400 on pump gas, some people go up to around 500, but thats too aggressive for me. try looking into a more traditional proven race gas for your track days and get a "street" and "race" tune. just dont forget to switch maps between fuels. I'm using q16 and i love it. $15 a gallon though...

 

ok u said skip the arp main studs now is this with re using your stock main studs cuz i know u shouldnt use stock head bolts my motor now has 80 000 miles on them and 25 000 are from me and trust me they are hard miles auto crossing and drag racing hitting v tec like its my job every day cuz i dayly it in the summer cuz i can get main studs off a friend for only 50 bucks so i figured what the heck now as far as bearing go do you guys feel good about acl or are oem honda worth the extra and i know allot of this has already been gone over but im just glad you all are giving me direct imput so i can save this and not have to dig around later as far as charge pipe goes iv heard 2 inch off turbo to ic and then from ic to throttle body 2.5 is this the best setup? and one final and i know you will all think this is very stupid question but the spring in wastegate this does not souly control pressure cuz my gate i baught off someone who has a 12 lb spring and said he was running 16lbs so just a little input on that and much thanks to all the e85 advice so thanks again guys so helpfull

 

Gotta start making some separate paragraphs here. TOO MUCH GIBBERISH IN ONE CLUMP.

I know this isn't school, but please be a bit more selective in punctuation. It will make discerning your message much easier. I'll try to answer a bit at a time, ok?

WHOA... sailor!!!!! Too much here!! Let's slow it down a bit. (wow..)

1) Your stock headbolts are fine for lower to midrange power levels of 250-300whp as long as the rest of the engine is healthy and mechanically sound. Once you've cracked the head off of the block, all bets are off, but if this is still in stock condition in the meantime, you're ok.. "Hitting VTEC everyday" is part of the design of the engine.. in other words, you're no different than a 18 year old female commuter going to walmart everyday. When driving, she probably "hits vtec" as much as you do. Stop overthinking, and look at the overall health of the engine before deciding to tear things apart.

2) Main studs are NOT needed at all unless completely tearing down the engine and changing parameters of the crankshaft. The use of Main studs requires machining and cannot be done "one at a time" like some people like to risk with head studs. (regardless of how much you got hooked up for $50. Again, until you're going to completely tear this engine apart, it is not necessary for main studs.

3) Some people use ACL because they want to keep the clearances of their bearing right in the center and don't want to pay the extra for OEM. Others, like myself, have always used OEM bearings when creating a turbocharged application, whenever possible. If not, i typically use Clevite bearings. And No Daito and Taiho are not divisions of ACL, you're not getting the same thing... Once again, these are things to look at when only tearing down the engine completely. You still haven't stated full power goals yet, so this thinking may be a bit premature.


Again, this really depends upon power goals. 2.5" intercooler kits are more than just fine for goals of 200whp-700whp. So there is no need to get cute with combinations of 2" here, with 2.5" over "there".. A 2.5" kit is fine for the goals. Most kits and available sources online and in shops use 2.5" mandrel bent aluminum or even steel. Stick to the simple. There will be plenty of chances to get creative with your turbo setup.


I just had to stop it there, as you were starting to not make any sense. The reason the 12lb spring was being used at 16psi and not 12 was because your seller was using a boost controller. This apparatus has the ability to increase the boost pressure from a given boost pressure spring used. It cannot be used for any pressure lower than the spring used. So, you cannot go under 12psi if you have the 12psi boost pressure spring.

Once you have some solid plans or examples of what you're trying to do here, can we assist any further. Right now, please look at the FAQs (highlighted in grey at the top of the forum) as the questions you're asking have been answered with a lot of detail in that portion of the forum.

 

well for one yes i am planing on totaly rebuilding the motor all new bearings and seals just to get everything back up to par to be able to safely handle this and sorrry about the jumble i got a d in english..
I know all this has been discussed but to be honest i work 2 jobs and have a newborn and dont have the time to be forum surfing all day so you guys looking past that and answering a few questions has helped out allot. for power goals i stated that in the 1st message between 400 and 500 hp was getting a feel threw experianced members if it was realistic to expect that power, and if i needed to change anything to make this happen like injectors and fuel pump. your advise there just saved me 4 to 500 dollars cuz i honestly though 750s would be plenty so thanks again guys

 

Ahh this wasn't mentioned before, so now we're a bit more up to speed. As for the "D" in English, just look at this as an opportunity to bump your grade up a bit as you continue on.. There's never enough education when it comes to anything... (Ok.. One to Grow On moment is over

Many of us are in the same boat as yourself, so sorry.. I empathize, but don't sympathize. Its not about the volume amount of searching you do, its making sure its in the right spots. Unfortunately, IB Search function suck donkey *****, so its best to use Google and Keyword Honda-tech to get better results when searching. Don't worry, we'll point you in the right direction, but when you get an hour when the baby is napping (wishful thinking, I know), then you can search the right spots and ask the better questions.

Well, the answer is YES, you can make that power number with a reassembled block , no problem. Quite a few do it all the time, the question is on what fuel do you plan to do the 400-500whp on? That makes the biggest different as to what turbocharger you need to use, and the purpose of the car. The better ones, do cost a little more, and are worth it over anything used or what e-bay has to offer, so don't get nuts over which is the "best for the buck"... There really isn't such a thing. The better the budget, the better the choices.

 

the shodan...is actually the man. glad i've stumbled upon this thread. he is shooting for the same whp as him so hope i can find more information next time i see this thread (just wished he had a little better punctuation marks too)