turbo doesnt spin at idle???plz help
ok i have a precision turbo 60 hotside 63 cold.....ls vtec fully built, but not tuned yet still on stock injectors.. just started the engine today and the turbo is not spining at idle, when i rev it up a lil it spins but it will stop a couple seconds later.... is this normal? i also am using no oil restricter and 10w 40 oil, (i have extra bearing clearance)....
I love seeing these threads. I dont mean to poke fun, but you're a little too nervous for your own good right now. A fresh turbo not spinning at idle is perfectly normal. The reason i find this particularly funny is because on my first turbo setup back in good ol' 2006, i FREAKED when i started the car only to see the turbo stuck in place lol...
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we had a car on the dyno a couple weeks back that had the same problem. turbo locked up about 2 days later. we didnt work on the car so i dont know the history/details etc.
Must be something wrong, my hy35 in d16 is spinning pretty nice when idling and keeps spinning some time even engine turned off. Your turbo is not that big that it would need to rev engine to spin it. Trouble in oil line / turbo / both. If u have no oil enough in turbo i think bearing is going instant.
ok some say normal, some say its not.. idk if i should tear the turbo apart or what?... when i turn it on and then off the turbine seems preety free to spin, but when the engine is on it becomes a lil harder to spin......
I have yet to see a turbo not spin at idle on a honda, from a .57 trim to an S372.... In my experiences they never spin well when new, run some pressurized oil through them and they free right up..... I owned 2 BB T67ho's and both wouldn't do a 360deg rotation by hand and after I broke them in they would spin for 30+sec. Make sure its getting oil and then go take a drive and then check it again.
1. turbo doesn't spin freely under any condition, even when you turn it by hand.
2. blades are touching the housing
3. does not spool under load
4. oil leak
5. blue smoke out of the exhaust
Some turbos need a few clicks for the oil to circulate thoroughly through the turbine. Until then it may not spool at idle. If its a big turbine, it may never spool at idle. This all depends on:
1. Engine displacement
2. compression ratio (higher compression breathes more air causing turbines to spin easier)
3. Turbine size (smaller turbines spool faster and earlier, bigger ones later)
4. age of the turbine (newer ones may need to be ran and broken in)
5. Ball bearing vs. non-ball bearing
If you need it to spin at idle (which frankly sounds silly to me) you should opt for a smaller turbo. Otherwise, if its spooling under load and producing boost and power, then you're good. Shut the hood and enjoy your turbo.
Yeah.
1. Don't use an oil restrictor unless you have significant oil smoke issues and you already know the turbo and its drain are nominal. Journal bearing turbos need an adequate supply of oil.
2. Cold 10w-40 oil will cause more drag and possibly prevent turbo shaft rotation at idle. Let the oil get to normal operating temp and see what happens.
3. Put the damn air cleaner on before you suck debris into the compressor.
1. Don't use an oil restrictor unless you have significant oil smoke issues and you already know the turbo and its drain are nominal. Journal bearing turbos need an adequate supply of oil.
2. Cold 10w-40 oil will cause more drag and possibly prevent turbo shaft rotation at idle. Let the oil get to normal operating temp and see what happens.
3. Put the damn air cleaner on before you suck debris into the compressor.
sorry for my ignorance... dont know whats normal for a turbo....
On a turbo honda, no. The only time the BOV will really function is when the car is under load (actual driving). Sitting at idle and revving the car will not produce positive pressure. This isn't "the movie", so you'll need a boost gauge first. this is good anyway, because then you can also tell if a clamp or hose connector is causing a leak.
1. Get a boost gauge with a strong vacuum source... NOW.
2. Put an actual filter on the turbocharger. you could seriously risk damage. Even dust and sand can destroy a turbocharger. if that happens YOU WILL PAY to fix it. No warranty there if there ever was one regardless of turbo company
3. Close the hood, tune, then drive.
1. Get a boost gauge with a strong vacuum source... NOW.
2. Put an actual filter on the turbocharger. you could seriously risk damage. Even dust and sand can destroy a turbocharger. if that happens YOU WILL PAY to fix it. No warranty there if there ever was one regardless of turbo company
3. Close the hood, tune, then drive.






wrong room sorry