First off, here is a picture from an online power by boost calculator. I used some safe numbers; i.e redline power, CC, turbo size, boost. And here is what is put out:



I'm by no means trying to start a bench racing thread. This just states that a small turbo at 14 PSI could put out enough to hit 250 HP. I've always heard this is unlikely.

Example: A 2G T25 turbo from the eclipse. That turbo, with supporting mods, on a B16A at 16 PSI, would it hit 250 HP like this calculator says? Is it possible?

Or, does this calculator lack the CFM thus giving a turbo no limit. Which is what I was thinking. I'm just reading and researching builds and such. Thought I'd ask a question. I've also read that the T28 is just a better turbo overall, anyones opinions?

Thanks.

 

You're asking a specific question about a generic tool.
Small/Medium/Large turbos are hardly specific.
There are a hundred factors its not even considering in the calculation.
This calculator is nothing more than a vague estimate. Why would you expect it to be accurate?

 

that boost calculator is terrible, and so are the options that its determining like the T28. It doesn't take into account the CFM flow of the cylinder head , nor the camshaft profiles associated with it. Its more theory than anything else.

Its best to go by experience in terms of what's needed and not rely strictly on a calculator of any sort.. especially that one.

 

Alright. Dang. It's hard to find anything really specific because most cheap turbo builds never see the dyno and nothing is ever proven. Most people take one look at anything short of a T3 and ignore it.

I understand this calculator isn't very good. It's a very estimated tool.

Would anyone direct me in a better direction?

I was looking into small turbos for the track but looking to see what kind of top end HP might be possible. Plus, I saw that the T25s are really easy to find.

 

If I put my GT3076R as a medium turbo it says I have 301whp @11.5 psi, I don't know if it got lucky or what.

 

Why don't you put a list of everything you have and a power goal and use of the vehicle and someone can give you several options for turbochargers to use

 

I'm still planning this. I have a B16A in an EF hatch. As far as parts for the turbo, basic things. Probably 550 or 750 cc injectors, depending if I can find good used ones or not. Front mount intercooler because it's practical. Waste gate won't be until after the turbo, same for the manifold. Tuning on a chipped ECU on the dyno. Power goals is 250 whp. This is a project for me, just taking my time and scoping things out.

 

Because "cheap" turbo builds really aren't "cheap". You're seeing T25s all over the place because many of them need to be rebuilt (which makes no sense from a cost perspective), and the ones that you're more likely finding are from DSMs, that are typically a radius flange in which you need either a ridiculous mis-flanged adapter, or a custom manifold.

When you say "track", can you be more specific as to why type of racing? 1/4 mile drag racing? 1/8th mile? Road racing? Lap attack? Street/strip warrior? You really have to be specific in terms of your needs and goals to be pointed in the right direction, because I think you're under the impression that "searching" for parts will yield some results that will give you some sort of longevity, when in most cases it doesn't.

People "toss out" the T25 turbochargers in favor of T3 for many reasons

-easier availability of manifolds both cast and 304 steel (not to mention less expensive on average

-easier availability and opportunity to switch out turbochargers

-more choices for turbochargers to choose from (company, size, styles, housings, etc)

-T25 flanged series for the better turbochargers typically means a ball-bearing turbocharger that may be out of the budget for most.

...and the list goes on.

"small turbos" for the track better exist in about the 42lbs/min-49lbs/min for road racers of even B16s. when you want even smaller, going into the T25 flanged stuff, prepare to increase your budget, especially when its purpose-driven.

Yes, you can find some deals on quality used parts for Hondas, this quest for what you found in the boneyard isn't going to help you in your quest. This will not be "cheap" if you plan to drive off the track under the car's own power after a session or run down the drag strip..

..Welcome to real turbocharging. It can be a scary place

 

As far as track I meant like time attack sort of stuff. As far as the flange maybe I was mistaken, but I thought it would just be finding a stock one from the DSM and cutting off the flange. Then weld it onto a log style manifold for the B series. That's what came to my mind.

And cheap I meant finding decent deals on some of the basics. I don't see any reason to be another guy who buys everything new and then realizes it's way to expensive and sells it off for 65% of what he payed. That's a huge waste in my eyes.

What does this mean? I'm not understanding it. Longevity? The easiest way to achieve longevity would be buying new parts, with a warrenty, that exceed the my goals so they aren't near their limits. Right? That would, in theory, last the longest.

By the way, you have this discouraging undertone in just about everything you say. Maybe you could brighten up and take it easy

I'm back on the search. I'm sure I'll find a good deal on something that will work, someday. In the end, the T25 won't be big enough. Correct? Too complicated to get it to work, from what I've heard. And isn't going to be cost effective in the end.

 

That's just bad budgeting...nothing to do with finding deals.


In my opinion, you're approaching this backwards. Dont start by searching for a turbo...start by determining your goals, your uses for the car/setup, and your budget. From there, you can get some idea of the 'next step'

 

My goal is 250 whp, top. No futher. Stock block and head with ARP head studs. A turbo that spools quickly and can make that power. That's all I want. Budget is unlimited in reality.

 

My responses are in blue

that would not be a wise plan at all. 1st, you'd never be able to weld another flange onto a cast iron-nickel turbine housing without some serious ill effects. In addition, the T25 flange you're referring to has completely differing dimensions compared to the Radius flange. You'd be spending $500 to basically save just $50

That's because the person you're imagining didn't plan very well in their budgeting. If you fail to plan, then you plan to fail. that's more of a waste than even your particular method of creating this build.

Not necessarily. you could have the best parts money could buy for this particular build, but without the correct understanding of how it all works together, including installation of all of the deals that you found,especially for a particular power and use goal (road course / 250whp), you could easily become the same 65% completion person you so described earlier. I'm simply saying that the methodology that you're using needs to be a bit more on the realistic side, its nothing personal at all.

I'm just fine. this is not my car, so I have no ego to bruise by any sense of the imagination. What simply concerns me is the fact that you must realize that when you write in these forums, its not just in an effort to answer your inquiries; there are others from other forums and platforms that search all over the web, stumble on this thread, and read the very bad advice and take it to heart. Perhaps wasting their time and money as well as possibly yours. We have enough jokes going around. When other people search, they will stumble upon this.. If its not relevant, its a waste of time. So we do this a bit more for "the greater good". Many of us are just more aware of it, that's all .

I have an awesome sense of humor. But not when it comes to turbocharging. Its serious business. Don't get me wrong, as I have fun with it as well (otherwise I wouldn't do what I have for so long), but you gotta be careful. Its more than just a few chart plots and do-it-yourself calculators; Its about understanding the principles of turbocharging and how they differ from other forms of forced induction.

Like with many things, they have a balance... Too large, you get great top end power, but unhappy. Too small, and you get great torque and can't move anywhere after 4000rpms... Get the wrong combination or start thinking you can "just cut" or "find an adapter", and you wind up with a piece of junk from oil starvation, exhaust leaks, etc.. that can lead to a fire, your injury, or whatever.. Turbos (in the end) don't have warranties.... Because its ALL on your thought process and attention to detail to put this stuff on correctly. Take it too light heartedly, and you wind up with a pile of scrap on your front lawn.

Being jovial is great.. but if you want to discuss turbos.. then discuss it and don't beat around the bush.. That's why this is (supposedly) a tech forum. Not some chat room

All I can say is, "keep hope alive".

 

I appreciate everything. So there is that. I'll keep my build simple. I'll buy matching parts most likely. And I think I'll hold out on it for a little longer. I'll paint a couple more cars and pay for the complete turbo using extra money.

Thanks.

 

A t25 won't make 250 on our dohc vtec motors. Heads simply flow too much and choke the turbine

Now if you're aiming for 250 and want to stay with a t2 flanged turbo try the gt28r (gt2560r) it has a larger. 64a/r turbine housing and a slightly larger turbine wheel, compressor side is a 60mm exducer wheel (basically a 60 trim t3 wheel, which is what's used in the gt28r, gt2860 and any turbo with a 60 as the las two digits) it's in a .80a/r compressor housing that uses a Nissan style bolt on inlet/outlet

If you want a little more, the gt2860r is ideal. It simply has a larger gt28 turbine wheel in either a .64 or .82 turbine housing with the same compressor side as the gt28r

User LightningTeg had a gt2860r mounted to an edelbrock turbo mani with a 3" downpipe and full 3" exhaust. On a bone stock ls motor at 20psi he made 300whp and 300wtq. The thing is though it made 300ftlb by 3500-4000rpm and carried it flat to redline

The gt28r will make 250whp without issue and it will make similar torque numbers at similar rpm but it will taper off before redline

It just so happens I have a ball bearing gt28r/gt2560r with an hks wastegate actuator, compressor inlet clocking flange (to make the bolt on outlet point the right way) 3" compressor inlet, compressor outlet, divorced 3" tubine outlet elbow and it has the hard to find oil inlet fitting installed, i can't remember if it's a restrictor or not and it's 3 or 4an

And I also happen to have a b series greddy turbo manifold that I've ported/polished/gasket matched that would be a perfect match for the turbo

And it's all for sale (shameless plug )and I'm not asking an absurd amount of money. I'll make you the deal of the year for all of it (it's been on the shelf as a potential turbo setup for my road course car but I've changed direction) also I got it all at a pretty low price and all I want to do is pass on the deal I got to someone else who needs/wants a setup like this without trying to rape their wallet. Call it Honda-Tech love lol

So if you're interested shoot me a pm and I'll try to get photos to you, again not trying to make a fortune off this stuff, just want to free up some shelf space and recoup the cost of the parts and give an HT user the same insane deal I got it all for, as I'd like to see it go to someone who will use it and turn their car into a ridiculously fun street car

 

U need to do a lot more research before you should even think about boosting your car

 

T3 Super 60 on a shorty ramhorn, 550cc injectors, Walbro 255, etc...fill in the details

 

That's kind of why I was here. I've done more research since posting this and I've got my turbo kit ready to be installed.

I went with a Garret T3/T4 .57 trim on a log manifold, 750cc injectors, Walbro 255, turbosmart 38mm wastegate, greddy BOV, innovative traction bar, custom downpipe, ect.

The only reason I posted this was trying to find some truth behind what I found while researching. After some long chats with both Wantboost and TheShodan, I found some good deals and get a decent set up pieced together. Also spent some time talking to Greg (I forget his name..) from Go-autoworks. I didn't actually buy much from him, and I feel bad that I didn't give him more service, but he helped me out a lot.

I'm keeping hope alive. Doing things slowly.

 

Being meticulous isn't a bad thing...glad to hear its coming together