Fred@Imerj

Hello HT, I need some input on a small problem I've been having. I have a turbo gsr integra that warms up past the normal temperature until I turn on the heater. Once the heater is blowing on high, the temp gauge goes back down to normal. The car has been turbo'd for the past few months, but this problem has barely started to happen. It doesn't happen if I drive in city, only on the highway after 15-20minutes of driving. The car is not tuned, its running on a base map. Stock internals, BWR half size radiator, new hoses. I removed the thermostat thinking that was the problem, but its still happening.

I did a leak down test, no bubbles but the water level did rise. What could be the problem? Why does having the heater turned on help cool the engine? Please help!

boostjunkie757

your radiator fan should start up when the engine coolant level starts to get past a certain point. there are a number of reasons that said fan wont kick on, so you are going to have to do some research to find out what is causing it not to if it isnt doing so. there are too many variables left because of the amount of information you have provided. i know you may think you have fully described the problem, but turbo cars generate a lot of heat, and there are a number of different things that can cause the car to run in a manner that will cause big problems.

Fred@Imerj

I forgot to mention, the fan is coming on as well.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Having the heater turned on does help cool the motor because it pulls some heat from the coolant into the cabin.

You need a tune for one, but that aside we can diagnose some possible issues.

It could be air pockets within the coolant system. When you bleed the coolant, did you have the heater open? I believe there are two methods to bleeding. One is on a level surface, funnel full of fluid inside the neck of the rad, bleeder valve. The other is to jack the front of the car up, turn the car on, remove cap, let it heat up and the bubbles should circulate to the highest point (the radiator if you jacked the car up enough).

Fred@Imerj

I was told that since the waste gate and dump tube is located right next to the radiator, that could have a lot to do with whats going on. My question to that is, why didn't it happen within the first few days of being turbo'd? Why is it now happening?

I have bled the system, with the bleeder valve open and with the cap off. I did have the heater on as well, it bubbles up and if i rev the motor water will shoot out. Ive done this a number of times, and I have the same problem. Is it a head gasket issue even though no bubbles appeared in a leak down test?

Fred@Imerj

I appreciate y'alls input!

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Check your oil. If the head gasket is going you should see puffs of white in the tail pipe or oily coolanty/milky oil.

Try a turbo blanket and heat wrap on the exhaust components if you trust what you were told.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Not always. There are multiple symptoms of a blown or damaged head gasket, but the only one that is truly definitive is a block test. OP, do one. Also, why are you using a shitty knockoff radiator? Exactly what fan and shroud do you have on that radiator?

Fred@Imerj

No white smoke, oil looks normal water has no oil either. I got a good deal on one used, I have been thinking of switching it out for a better unit. The fan is BWR as well, I would upgrade to a FAl and spal fan if I upgrade the radiator.

I would try the turbo blanket, but I don't trust the person 100%. He's a good guy, but i'm 50/50 with his word.

Sorry for the newbie type question, whats the difference between a block test and a leak down test? I assume that they test for the same problems.

LTCxD2B

I have a similar problem... Type r front and a half radiator no shroud lol Spoolin log with a wrapped downpipe I ordered a turbo blanket I'll let u know if it helps when I put it on

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Does the fan have a shroud? Without a shroud, it's basically doing nothing. A turbo blanket for your issue would be like a bandaid on a 8 inch gash - it's got the appearance, but it doesn't actually fix the underlying issue. You need to actually diagnose the problem and fix it.

A block test is basically taking a small amount of coolant out of your radiator, and putting a litmus strip in it. The litmus tests for exhaust gasses in your coolant. Exhaust in coolant = damaged or blown head gasket. No other signs are truly definitive. A leakdown test is similar to a compression test, but you're using an air compressor to force air in, and listen/feel for where it leaks out.

Fred@Imerj

The fan has no shroud whatsoever, just a basic plastic 10in(i think) fan. Im going to do a block test, if its a head gasket then its ok because I was going to build the motor anyway. I was just hoping to run it as is for a bit before I do so.

Could it be, even by a slight margin, a cracked block? maybe the head lifted, since I'm on stock head bolt, and caused this problem?

EpHatchy

your problem is your fan and no shroud. and the reason why your just now noticing it cause were in the middle of summer. I had the same problem same 10" fan with no shroud and I would still overheat on 100+ degree days. those fans are only good on all motor cars that don't generate a lot of heat or cars that the temp bearly gets to 80 degrees in the middle of summer. anything more that fan cant keep up. get a spal or even a derale fan with a shroud. your problems should go away.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Your problem is your fan and radiator. Stop driving the car before you cause more damage, and get a proper fan with shroud.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Definitely needs a shroud. I didn't think about that. The OEM shroud is half decent from what I've heard.

monjarassi

What coolant u using

Fred@Imerj

It crossed my mind that it might be the fan and/or radiator that would be the cause. I was thinking of the absolute worse situation, i.e. cracked block/head gasket. Ive been driving the car as it is since February, so with the temps in my area well over 100 degrees, it makes sense the fan and radiator are the problem. I'll be looking into a name brand radiator and fan, pwr or fluidyne with a spal fan. Any opinions on a flex-a-lite fan with shroud?

Ive been using o'rielly's coolant. I don't know if that would make a difference.

thanks for all the input!

2kdrift

coolant shoud be fine as long as its the green stuff

From what im reading i agree with you, a combination of ambient tempurture and the increased heat of the wastegate, dumptube, manifold could cause the radiator to not cool properly. But i would recommend looking into cheeper brands unless you just got cash to blow. The fluidyne seems overpriced, I have a Cxracing triple core with shroud and slim fan it cost me about $200 shipped (might be cheaper for you i get raped on shipping here) or one upgrade beyond that would be a mishimoto unit still very affordable. Ive been using my cxracing for past 2 or 3 years no problem. Prior to that I had another cxracing unit that lasted 2 years until i wrecked my del sol and bent the radiator I have had really good luck with this brand. Im actually getting rid of mine just due to space issues im gonna pick up a dual core instead to allow more room for my turbo setup. although i think you would get a better deal for a new one online cuz shipping would cost to much to send to u