here it is

 

what should I do for venting with a stock SiR motor. I was going to just leave all that out of it

 

had a screen over mine for the time being, but just picked up a filter over at autozone, adjustable from 2.5'-4" so works for me lol

 

do what i did just pull out the pcv and stick a filter there and plug the vacuum line then vent the valve cover to atmosphere, just stick a filter on it i will do that i just havent got around to it.

 

Depends how much power your making and what's done to he engine s to how much crankcase ventilation is needed

 

agreed^^^ u never did tell me what turbo youre running. i bought a mugen valve cover (call me a ricer i like the way it looks lol) that i will be welding the bungs into for the can. im not sure if i'm gonna make it drain back into the pan though, Turbo ls does your can fill up quick i see yours doesnt drain back in. I also want to place my can where yours is and i want to get rid of the stupid abs crap ive already disabled it but havent removed the hardware yet. did u do your abs removal while the motor was still in the car?

 

My catch can get little to no oil in it. My ghetto catch can is made of PVC plastic so it generally only lasts about 6-8 months due to fuel vapors building up and melting the plastic at the bottom of the can. generally i see about 1/4 quart of build up in 6-8 months. If you put the bungs in correctly there protected by the baffle inside the VC and little to no oil will get in there. I dont recomend a drain back. thatallows water into your crankcase.

Sorry i didnt see you ask me what turbo i had. Its a bastard turbo really LOL. Its a garrett unit for what i beleiev is a mercedes turbo diesel. Basically its a t3/t4E with a stage 5 turbine wheel or P trim and a 60mm inducer and 84mm exducer compressor which makes it a 51 trim wheel. When i purchased it i was told it was a new garrett unit t04e 60 trim with a standard 5 bolt turbine housing

When i got the turbo and put a 5 bolt flange up to it 3 of the 5 holes lined up. it has the same shape and pattern but this turbine housing requires a larger version of the 5 bolt flange. So i ended up drilling and tapping the housing to accept the standard 5 bolt housing. this is why i call it a bastard turbo LOL. there is no real classification for it but hell it works good and spools nicely on my car with boost by gear. right now on a very conservative tune (ignition wise) it putting out 406 at 17-18 psi boost. The big exhaust wheel really allows my engine to breath up top it pulls very hard from 7000-9200

 

these are the numbers im looking for 300 is great but 400 is awesome imo 500 is too much for street use but i would be happy between 400 and 450 im estimating 18-20 psi on 57 trim, we'll see how long she holds togethe,r ive already got like 10 000km on it how bout the abs delete did u do this with the motor in? also what can u tell me about the silver surfer. totally jacking this thread btw lol.

 

I want to see pics of the filter with the pcv system im not sure how that works. the motor should make between 220-290hp on an ebay 50trim turbo cast log manifold tial wg with 10psi spring

 

theres pics of his engine bay on page 1 he has the victor x intake, white pvc on the left side.

 

400-450whp on a 57 trim is going to take 25-26 psi. 425-450 is about maximum for that turbo as its about a 45lbs/min turbo.

400 on the street is plenty. with boost by gear im able to hook perfectly in 2,3,4,5 gear and the car pulls very hard. Im running 205/50/15 falked ze912 which is an all season high performance tire and they hook 3rd gear at 400whp no problem. in second gear i have it dialed in around 300hp and first gear is on lowest boost setting of 9 psi and it just tears the tires up, basically useless on the street in 1st gear LOL

I did the abs delet with the engine out of the car but it can be done with the engine in the car it wasnt that difficult. i took out the pump and hard lines. Used the 40/40 prop valve from an rs integra. still using my ABS master cylinder which is better being its larger. I used russell teflon stainless braided lines from the master to the 40/40 valve and from the valve to the front brakes. the rear hard lines are still in place from the valve to the rear of the car. i then have russell teflon stainless lines to all four calipers.

just be sure you bleed the snot out of the brake system. i think i went through about two big bottles of blue synthetic racing brake fluid to completely clean out the lines and calipers and master and get all the air out of the system. I'm just **** it would probably be good enough on 1 bottle but i wanted it crystal clear. Even with only 70k miles on the chassis the brake fluid was pretty nasty

For my catch can i am going to build an aluminum box where that pvc unit sits right now, im going to setup the baffel in a way that if the can were to get oil in it it wont leak because im going to put the filter on the side of the box and make it go into the fender so the fumes are minimal inside the car. Right now especially since my hood is spaced in the back it gets stinky in my car if i dont keep the vents closed from fresh air.

The silver surfer is a turbo designed by Mac aka theshodan. its in a t3/t04E frame and is capable of i believe 530-550whp. Its a billet aluminum compressor wheel of his design and the rest of the turbo is all garrett parts. i believe he has two different turbine wheel options but dont quote me on that.

When i upgrade my turbo i will be going with his STC Reaper which is a t3/t04S platform with the capability of 725-750whp depending on which turbine wheel you choose. that will allow me to make 500-525whp on pump gas if i wanted tobut i think im gong to stick with 400-450 pump gas and 600 on race gas for track days.

 

u think if i pmed him he could give me more info on the 2. ive seen some guys get pissed if u pm them without knowing them.

 

Mac is a nice guy. He will give you the info you ask for. Give him a complete breakdown of the setup and goals on what fuel and he will be more willing. He is a busy guy so lay it all out so he can give you the info our asking for quickly

 

kk thanks man.

 

absolutely, the shodan has increased my education level and has been extremely helpful with questions i've had. the turbo i currently have and those siemens injectors are his influence

 

I'm sure the oldschool and current Trust/GReddy and HKS mushroom (sponge) filters will work fine aswell. They are made for turbo applications and have webbing built inside to prevent mishaping and being sucked inside or falling apart. These filters tend to be on the expensive end and if you can't afford or find one a typical K&N cone filter will suffice just fine for a street setup. If you are abit more ballsey you can run a wire screen and a couple layers of pantiehose LOL. Granted everyone should stay away from the fake ones.

 

If you get a real hks one they work but they also reduce air flow

 

aem dryflow here

 

i pmed him and he sent a bunch of info im going with the surfer, im gonna start collecting parts now and hopefully do it over next winter, im gonna build specifically for the surfer and take all suggestions from the shodan along the way. id like a 450 setup.

 

im pretty sure theres some threads on here about the new filters being sucked in, ppl swearing they are legit but who knows right, the fakes can be pretty convincing just look at those tial wastegates that got stickied.

 

Yeah Mac really knows his stuff. you will be very happy with that turbo

 

totally gonna do the topmount with that bad boy all polished up lol.

 

Lol get an afi or full race