<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kpt4321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
4: Using the A/C to blow cold air into the engine bay will increase the overall underhood temperatures. Think about it, all the A/C does is transfer heat energy from one place to another (normally from the cockpit to outside). Where outside does it transfer heat to? Right in front of the radiator. Also, because the A/C is not 100% percent efficient, for every bit of cool air it blows into the engine bay, you would have more heat created right in front of the radiator, right where you do not want it.

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for the whole A/C fan thing, i REMOVED the condensor part, theirfor only the fan is mounted in. now, when on, this fan should blow air right on the header, and flow DOWNward mostly to the ground, and up around the head of the engine. i think that and combing raising the hood at the rear, should cause it to suck that air down the back of the engine.

 

Or, what if you had some kind of radiator that would cool off the air that the engine was breathing in, some kind of intercooler?!

It doesn't matter how hot it is under the hood, just hot hot the air is that your engine is ingesting, really...so, cold air intake, wrap intake pipes (I'm always amazed at all the chrome **** everyone has), wrap exhaust pipes, create a "duct" around the radiator that forces the air through it.

Also, removing ANYTHING from under the hood will keep it cooler at a stop. Heat soak requires matter, so the less dense your engine bay is, the better!

 

Aerogear Predator hood..... maybe it's rice, maybe it's not, but according to most, if something is functional, it's not rice, and my hood keeps engine bay temps way lower than a stock hood

 

I was thinking about this also. Especially with my full-race manifold where it covers so much space and im thinking that the heat from it travels over the valve cover and runs right into the intake manifold.........hot IAT's are not good for turbo as we all know.
I was thinking of removing the wheather seal at the back of the hood too, but havent tried it.
I just thought of a new one. How about drilling holes through the firewall into the area where the wiper blade motor is......this way the hot air will vent through the cowl. Any thoughts on this guys?? Some say its a high pressure area there, but if air is coming in and pushing the hot air down the firewall and out the bottom of the car then it will still evacuate the hotter under hood air....sort of a scavenge effect. An easy way to find out which way the air it traveling past those holes would be to mock up some type of simple air flow meter and find some way to monitor it.

 

this is be best idea ive heard since sliced bread!
or run no hood We had a hood pin incident at around 11pm. Took the hood off and threw it in the ditch(picked it up the next morning, I hate littering).
On the way home, I stuck my hand out the window, on the windshield, and I could have swore that the air was at least 20 degrees warmer than sticking your arm all the way out. Plus, the manifold was cherry red while rowing through third gear

 

im liking all the responses that are coming in, keep em coming.

 

All the Shady Tree Mechanic tips sounds good, but it just sounds like a waste of lute. We are not doing anything different with our cars that would cause us to reinvent the wheel. If you are looking for reiable cooling temps at all times. Buy a decent 4 core rad and a heavy duty fan with a 160 stat and your all good. All the other stuff is just extra. I have never heard anyone with problems that have followed this method for cooling. 9 times outta 10 you could get away with the stock rad with a decent aftermarket fan. No need to prop your hood or relocate your rad. just my 2 cents.