I just recently put into my 94 lude a p28 ecu with 450 dsm injectors. We had the ecu chipped and at first we just threw in a base map. The Check engine light then came on and we then made some readjustments. From there, the light came off and the car ran fine for the day. The next day, the light came back on but still ran fine. I was gonna go make some adjustments again but the light then proceeded to turn back off and the car ran well once again.

Today, the light (you guessed it) came back on and I drove the car and it ran fine until I was driving and then my exhaust became a lot louder and there was no power to the car. I shifted and even the lower gears had no power, I turned off the main road and shut the car off. I tried starting the car and it wouldn't go so I let it sit for a few minutes and then started it and it started, but the CEL is still on.

My questions are: what can make that CEL stay on and why did my car lose power all of a sudden? Also, is it possible to have a faulty ecu or chip? Would these symptoms follow suit with a bad ecu or chip?

 

pull the codes and find out what you are tripping first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18bturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pull the codes and find out what you are tripping first.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's the thing, I jump the humper and the light just stays on...no flashy!!
But then I throw in my old p13 and the light shuts off. Also, another thing I noticed, when I have the harness jumped to get a code and turn the car on, the CEL just stays on, but when I take it out and start the car with the p28 and chip in place the CEL comes on as usual then shuts off for a fraction of a second and then turns on and stays on.

 

send me your map ill take a look at it also post up on ecimutli.org/uberdata

 

I think when I had a bad burn once my CEL would stay lit(I read that somewhere as well). and like you said it won't allow you to pull the code when its a solid CEL...sometimes when I'd reburn, the CEL would go away and sometimes when I'd just let the car sit(and then restart later) the CEL would be regular than throw the goddamn O2 heater code(arrrrgh...but thats another story ) I'm done with OBD1

 

Cool man, I'll IM it to you as soon as I can get it (it's on a buddy's laptop) As it stands, I'm running a set of 450 dsm injectors, a socketed and chipped p28. I took out my secondary runner intake butterfly doors (just the doors, the plate is still on there though). One other thing I just remembered is that the ecu was off of an automatic but we converted it to a manual by pulling a jumper connector. The car is just running N/A at the moment so we can make a map for boost later.

 

If the car runs like crap and it's rev limited to 4k with a solid CEL the ecu is in backup mode and ignoring the chip. To me it sounds like your chip is becoming loose while you drive.

 

I agree, solid CEL = bad chip,bad connection with the chip or something along those lines. Is your chip a 27C256 or any kind with a window? If so do you have the chip in direct sunlight? I could see that as screwing up the chip.

Nick

 

Yah, I think that you guys are onto something cuz I started messing around with it and as soon as I started wiggling thatt little jumper, the cel turned off. I then took it off and the light went on, after replacing it back on, and shutting off and starting the car again, the light would not come on. But if I would wiggle it again or pull it off, it would come back on. So I think the jumper is loose, but is there a certain type of jumper or is a jumper a jumper a jumper?

I ask this cuz I went to future shop and got a jumper from their tech room and placed that on and the light would stay on, but if I used the original umper, it would stay off.