Today this dude cut me off, so I decided to follow him while in 4th and I soon after dropped it down into 3rd and over took him. I got a tial wastegate with a 7psi spring, but when I looked over at my boost gauge it was reading 10psi, I dropped my eyes down to look at my revs, speed, and everything when I noticed my temperature needle . . . .

it usually sits only 1/4 of the way up and has never rose on me for the past 2 years I have had the car, but when I looked at it it was 3/4 of the way up. I quickly let off the gas and that helped it drop, and as soon as I popped my hood it dropped back to normal.

What would cause something like that to happen?

Oil cools the internal parts, and the coolant cools down the block, I checked my coolant for traces of oil (headgasket) but there is not one sign of oil at all: headgasket is fine.

One thing that I will get a picture of though is I have a 92 civic ex (4 door) d16z6 head, and a y8 block using the y8 water pipe. There is a hose that runs from near the vtec solenoid that I have ran into a T fitting with some coolant lines because the water pipe on the z6 has 2 holes for 2 hoses but it leaks like a ****** ****** on the y8 block, and the y8 only has 1 hole for 1 hose but it does not leak coolant at all.

HELP! I don't want to blow my radiator from over heating

 

What is the condition of your rad?? I had a similiar problem on my n/a setup about 2 years ago. The car would not over heat in traffic however when I was at WOT in 4th or 5th gear, my temp needle would rise. My rad wasn't holding any pressure. Do a pressure test on your rad and see....HTH...

 

Or you started pushing air into the cooling system under boost.

 

thanks guys . . . . . i'll look into both soulutions. How could I be pushing air into the cooling system . . . . just curious.

 

free bump i'm having the same prob since i started boosting 2 days ago

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92lxsedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">free bump i'm having the same prob since i started boosting 2 days ago </TD></TR></TABLE>

sucks doesn't it . . . . I have never not once seen my needle rise abouve the 1/4 way mark since I have owned the car. Even on my last turbo setup with my car pushing 10psi creeping up it never did this, so i'm pretty stumped.

 

tyson have your coolling system pressure checked. How is your cooling system thermostat etc wise alll in good condtion.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vtec92Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks guys . . . . . i'll look into both soulutions. How could I be pushing air into the cooling system . . . . just curious. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can lift your head under boost, regardless of arp's or not. Very common for D16's, I've read this post by 4 different boosted D16 members in the past month. I'm not saying this is the case here, but it's common.

 

Even if you don't see coolant and oil mixing I would do a leak down test just to make sure.

 

bump because i'm having the same trouble with my d16a6 boosted rex..its only been boostin' 4 days..haven't really drove it yet..using a brand new dual core delsol radiator..plz help!!

 

thanks everyone for posting . . . . I hope to get this solved. I was told by a friend to pickup a del sol dual core radiator since my stock one might not cut it. THis stumps me since I have never had any problems like this in the past. I did however have another question.

After my cars temperature went up the way that it did (3/4 of the way) I was on my way to the beach went to the beach for about an hour, came back to my car and busted out the toolbox. We pulled my spark plugs to discover . . .



that the center piece that is white in this picture was red. I have never seen that happen before, but the base of the plug was (black) from running rich, the metal L was tanish which I was told is normal for a car running 14:1 a/f ratio, and yeah the center was red like a chile pepper, what can cause that?

BTW I am still running stock timing, should I retard my timing at all 2 degrees? What should my timing be set is 14 retarding it or is 18 degrees retarding it?

Do I retard it from the skunk2 cam gear, or from the dist. cap itself?

 

Dude 14:1 ratio of Fuel is damn LEAN! Wouldn't you think? Are you sure..?

But of course, Overboosting and boost spikes causes Temp to raise. dOh. Why? Its like shooting a bottle of nos in your motor all a sudden, and you expect your motor to handle such pressure? &gt;_&lt; Your motor will run very very hot., from higher boost.. (Maybe the motor isnt capable of pushing coolant at higher gph? Then other motors? )

From my guess, if the temps can raise so quickly instantly like that.. Then its not partially the radiators fault (it cools at a ratio speed, cant expect it to be ice cold at times of spikes) .. More like something due to restrictions or so, with in the motor area..

Let us know how it goes tho.

 

to retard you ignition timing (which i am sure you are talking about) you use the distributer.
the cam gear will change cam timing.

18 deg would be advanced.....you definetly dont want that.

hope this helps, chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the-anti-crack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to retard you ignition timing (which i am sure you are talking about) you use the distributer.
the cam gear will change cam timing.

18 deg would be advanced.....you definetly dont want that.

hope this helps, chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks Chris . . . . I will be retarding my timing some tonight or today rather so I need to take it down to about 14 then right?

14 @ TDC or 14 BTDC?

 

btdc

 

my radiator was falling apart and i was having the same problem. if it's in good shape, it might be time to upgrade. run it around for a while and see if you can smell coolant burning or see any dripping