I recently installed a techedge wb kit in my car. Since the install I have had a solid CEL for the missing primary O2 sensor. The Techedge kit comes with a simulated narrowband output in the event that you should want to replace your factory sensor with the wideband sensor. I ran this lead to the primary heated oxygen sensor input (which was a white wire). I am fairly certain that the simulated output from the TE is working, but its hard to tell this with a multimeter as the simulated output is in the 0.1-0.9V range. My only other idea is that the factory has high current leads going to it to heat the sensor. These are now in an open circuit and I would imagine that is what is throwing the code.

Has anyone else installed this device that can steer me in the right direction?

 

This unit does a good job simulating the narrowband output but you guessed right: You must also have the heater circuit operating or you will get a CEL for heater circuit malfunction.

I think many people just leave the stock O2 wired in and safely tucked away somewhere? Or you could put the correct resistor in between the heater circuit wires. (Whatever the resistance is across the heater circuit... I think I have seen 1 megaOhm resistors used)

 

My Helms says that the heater inside the o2 sensor should test at 10-40 ohms. Mine tests at 13.2 ohms. At 14.4V that would sink about 16W. Thats assuming the heater is a voltage pump and not a current pump.

Assuming the resistance of the heater doesnt fall below 8.5 ohms when heated I would be safe replacing it with a 15 ohm 25 resistor. I think I may also look into some huge 50W resistors also incase it burns up (i.e. the heater circuit is a current pump).

This all seems kind of excessive to get rid of a CEL. Im guessing most people either live with the CEL ir keep their factory sensors in preludes.