A buddy who is a distributor for turbo's came through with it appears to be a T3/To4e .63 Stage 3 wheel 54-57 trim not sure. Was told it's a 57.

Anyways far as converting from internal WG to external what is involved?

Simple as taking off the WG flapper and do I need to weld the hole shut? TIA

 

easiest way is to take the swingarm housing, thats the part with the flapper in it, and get a 5 bolt flange that has the wg port blocked off. then get a manifold that has provisions for an external gate.

may i ask why you dont want to use it?
you have a nice vband housing there.

 

Thanks for the help, much appreciated, I already have a new 38mm MVS Tial V band WG that I want to use...

Anybody ID if it's a 54 or 57 trim? just double checking...

So if I run a normal 5 bolt flange with no external WG prevision... I wont need to weld the hole shut on the turbo housing?

 

Looks like a popular Ebay T3/T4 turbo..

The easiest way is to tack weld the flapper swing arm on the internal wastegate. Just tack weld the swing arm to the turbine housing and put some pressure on the flapper just so it seals tight.

 

i agree with tony on the easiest way, but if it were me, id take off the swingarm, because it would bother me.

and a 5 bolt dp flange will block off the wastegate port. BUT you would need to make a down pipe or find a down pipe with the 5 bolt flange already there.

 

http://www.maperformance.com/grimmsp...u-wrx-sti.html

fab up something like this.

 

^^

If you tack weld the swing arm stem, and weld it cold with little penetration, all it takes is 5 secs with a grinding wheel and it will put it back to stock...LOL I've done that dozens of times already.

That bracket above is a total waste of money IMO... Cheap I guess for guys who does not have access to a TIG welder anyhow.

 

someone just told me that the CCE50 and stamping design is a precision stamping

Yeah I didn't pay extra for the vband and the wg so doesn't bother me to run a normal 5 bolt flange with block off for internal WG if that will solve the issue...

Box it came in reads...

T3-To4e Dry C+R .63 T/HSNG Stage 3 54... Gated, V. Band Exhaust.......

I was told it was a 57 trim.

 

Inside the T3 exhaust housing right inside the flange reads .63

 

Take the compressor housing off and mic the compressor wheel. It'll tell you what trim the turbo is. But as going external wastegate just take the whole internal wastegate off and get yourself a 5 bolt discharge flange. Reguardless, you're still have to make a downpipe for it anyway.

 

Thanks.

 

Last question is it possible to have a 57 internal in a 50/54 housing? since these are pieced together turbos with all new parts

 

Have ebay turbos gotten better over the years? I have worked with SOOO many of those taiwanese / chinese turbo factories only to have their products fail miserably in testing. They started getting better right around when Audi setup a plant in China, but then I stopped playing with them...

 

+1

subaru ppl do it all the time for their ewg setups

 

You could also ask your CDM contact for a 4-bold turbine housing. For simplicity and use of the v-band, do what's mentioned above, although drilling a hole above the flapper & inserting a bolt/lock washer to press on the flapper will work just as well (assuming it doesn't backout).

You could also cut the v-band part off and weld to a normal flat flange, but its chinese cast iron - not the best metal to weld.

 

Turbo is nottt ebay, it's been said that the inlet housing is Precision CCE50 indicates so and the stamping. Every part of this turbo is to believe to be top notch, the builder uses all (new) same parts on every rebuild he does weather it's garrett or precision etc...

 

Precision claims it does appear to be there housing by the stamping code, and it may be a 50 trim? My main question is it possible to have 54/57 trim internal in a 50 housing?

 

I hate internal gates and their poor wastegate control.

I wouldn't ditch that bolt-on housing, v-band DPs are very simple and easy to work with. Wire/bracket the flapper closed, TIG it like Tony suggests, or tap a hole in the v-band housing and hold the flapper shut with a stainless setscrew and locknut. I've done the latter on a number of HX35W setups, works great. There are a bunch of ways to win here.