<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboedc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much does it cost... </TD></TR></TABLE>

contact tony1. (or maybe i should start carrying them too )

its not too bad of a price considering the price you pay for other things

besides, if you sit there and waste your precious dyno time on a ignition misfire, this will just save you time and might pay for itself.

i dont know how many cars ive seen with aem and aftermarket msd's that misfire.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

whats wrong w/the 1342 firing order?? 1 and 4 share power, 2 and 3 share power.. no problems there.. hell it will even fire 1 and 4 at the same time for waste spark apps using 4 coils.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Tan -- goes to + terminal on coil #1 & 3

pink -- goes to + terminal on coil #2 & 4

so if you line the coil# up with the cyl on the car it would draw tan tan pink pink, instead of tan, pink, tan pink. you would have to line the coil up to the firing order. so coil 1 = cyl 1/ coil 2 = cyl 3/coil 3=cyl 4/ coil 4=cyl2


READ MORE HERE

 

coil 1 should goto cylinder 1, coil2 goes to cyl2, etc... you are thinking way too much... 1 is 1, 2is 2... simple

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">coil 1 should goto cylinder 1, coil2 goes to cyl2, etc... you are thinking way too much... 1 is 1, 2is 2... simple </TD></TR></TABLE>

your sure ? absolutely 100% sure ? you have cars running flawless setup in this manner?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

your sure ? absolutely 100% sure ? you have cars running flawless setup in this manner? </TD></TR></TABLE>

its jdogg...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

its jdogg... </TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont care if he was god. i would second guess the shiot out of him.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think this is a common misunderstanding with this setup. This is on the input side of the ecu, while the ignition is on the output. You can run any ignition system with this setup, even stock. What determines if this will work with your computer is if it's configurable for a different input triggering pattern and signal. Art runs this trigger setup with an M&W Pro 10 single channel ignition system with the stock distributor there, just gutted. The stock distributor in that case only distributes spark, nothing else. It makes the car run better regardless of which ignition system you are using. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Tony1, Could you please expound on how you would get this trigger setup to work witha stock ECU. Is it simply a converter box to change the signal from a digital output to an analog?

TIA

Nick

 

Sorry, i guess i should have been more specific. It will not work with a factory ecu, but will work with a factory ignition system with an aem ecu. Again, this only affects the input side of the ecu. Alot of times is gets grouped with the individual coil setup because it allows complete removal of the distributor in that situation, but it doesn't require that. Make sense?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mase &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">surprisingly enough, the car i tuned this with (rollys) for the first time, made increasing power all the way to 10,500 on a 2.0 motor w/ gt35r. something ive never seen before</TD></TR></TABLE>


correction its 81.5mm bore B16A block

 

haha oops, i see so many of these things, i always forget.

 

this is how mine is setup.



and mine is setup in the "teeth" table for injector and ignition as 9,6,0,3..as Jdogg told me before..it all depends where your sync tooth is at on the cam gear..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry, i guess i should have been more specific. It will not work with a factory ecu, but will work with a factory ignition system with an aem ecu. Again, this only affects the input side of the ecu. Alot of times is gets grouped with the individual coil setup because it allows complete removal of the distributor in that situation, but it doesn't require that. Make sense?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ahh I see, That is what i assumed but i wasnt sure. Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYBRID_H@TCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and mine is setup in the "teeth" table for injector and ignition as 9,6,0,3..as Jdogg told me before..it all depends where your sync tooth is at on the cam gear..</TD></TR></TABLE>

The settings that Mase posted should be right for all units purchased from here on out. In the past, they were made 1 at a time by hand and everyone had their own brackets which put the sensor in a little different place. Now all the gears are CNC drilled and the brackets are CNC'd as well. Everybody's magnet position relative to the sensor and engine position should be the same. These settings will get the car started, and when you sync the timing it'll dial everything in exact.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">everyone had their own brackets which put the sensor in a little different place.

Now all the brackets are CNC'd as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I want one of those purty new brackets! You should see the craptastic bracket that I made for my sensor Will you sell me just the bracket?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

your sure ? absolutely 100% sure ? you have cars running flawless setup in this manner? </TD></TR></TABLE>

my car does, cyl 1 = coil output 1, 2 is 2 and so on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rollydc69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

my car does, cyl 1 = coil output 1, 2 is 2 and so on.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm happy everything worked out for you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-tuned &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm happy everything worked out for you </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks a lot to you!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> your sure ? absolutely 100% sure ? you have cars running flawless setup in this manner? </TD></TR></TABLE>

which one???? i have probably 10 cars running this setup, cyl 1 = coil 1, ect

 

We've been using this product since the begining of last year with the Autronic box with absolutely no problems.

To Tony1.

 

Saw one of these items while in AZ on one of Tony's kars...very nice looking.


Sweet .PDF Mase, love you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The settings that Mase posted should be right for all units purchased from here on out. In the past, they were made 1 at a time by hand and everyone had their own brackets which put the sensor in a little different place. Now all the gears are CNC drilled and the brackets are CNC'd as well. Everybody's magnet position relative to the sensor and engine position should be the same. These settings will get the car started, and when you sync the timing it'll dial everything in exact. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey Tony, on my set up the green wire is "sync" and yellow is "ref" right? Or should I check and make sure my magnets aren't backwards?

 

Green is the South pole, Yellow is the North pole. I'm not 100% sure which direction yours were, the older ones were 12 south and 1 north, the newer ones are the other way. If some of your magnets look white, then the white side is south. If some of your magnets have a black dot on the face, then that side is north. A polarity tester would be the best way to tell for sure.

 

The only problem on this set up is, when i took out my distributor, my tachometer on my cluster didn't work anymore, Do you guys know how im gonna make my tach works again?? i have an extra white wire from my AEM CDI for tach, do i just tap that on the blue wire coming from distributor plugs???

 

Yeah, if you feed a tach signal into the blue wire then the tach will work. The tach signal can come from an ecu output or an output on your ignition box.

 

The white wire from the CDI goes to your tach.