Finally got a chance to use one of tony palo's cam trigger setups while i was out in california.



works very well.

As we all know many people face ignition trouble. Ive always been a big fan of stock ignitions in good form, have been proven to be able to support 700 whp.

however, in further detail, distributors arent extremely accurate at very high RPMS.

AEM has many great features, but I have more ignition problems with that ecu than any other ive tuned.

MSD ignitions are garbage IMO, and i never like to use them unless i have to.


The T1 cam trigger isnt all that difficult to install.

If you are going to be pushing some serious power, and dont want to go the dizzy route, id recommend one of these along with a direct fire COP setup.

The CDI ignitions are kinda IFY. M & W are very decent. however more expensive. the aem have been known to burn out, but hopefully they have that fixed. the MSD Dis 4 works ok too.

but when u think about it, you're going to be spending tons of money on that 700 whp setup, so why not do it right?

I noticed there wasnt much documentation on how to correctly wiring this and modify the AEM calibration, so with help from a few individuals, i made a nice PDF format for those who will be using this setup.

I have a feeling it will be the new band wagon for those who have ignition trouble.

surprisingly enough, the car i tuned this with (rollys) for the first time, made increasing power all the way to 10,500 on a 2.0 motor w/ gt35r. something ive never seen before.


<FONT SIZE="2">TO DOWNLOAD THE T1 CAM TRIGGER SETUP WIRING TO AEM INSTRUCTIONS </FONT>

RIGHT CLICK, SAVE AS HERE

 

Thanks Mase

 

if i only didnt blow my motor. next on my agenda

 

i was under the impression that you used teh c2di box along with the T1 sensor and whatever coils and plugs u decided to buy. This was doesnt involve opening/sending in the ecu...?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was under the impression that you used teh c2di box along with the T1 sensor and whatever coils and plugs u decided to buy. This was doesnt involve opening/sending in the ecu...?</TD></TR></TABLE>

with any trigger kit like this you have to modify the ecu. read my instructions its explains it and has pictures of what im talking about.

 

The opening of the ecu is to convert the aem from the factory sine wave signal to the hall sensor's square wave signal. It's very easy to do, just move the jumpers. The older boxes need to be sent back to aem to be modified.

Some ecu's can be changed in the software, some in the harware. With Motec, you just change the sensor setup from mag to hall in the calibration.

 

yea, i have a 1000 box so i guess i will have to send it in Is that a free service or is there a fee involved?

 

As far as i know, it's free from AEM, but you'd need to contact them to be sure.

 

Very cool.

BTW Tony the site kicks ***

 

Nice writeup

 

very well done. now tell us. The Hall sensor does the same thing as the stock distributor on the Intake cam. but just with more points? or more accurate signal? Please explain

 

It's a more accurate digital signal. The factory sensors produce a sine wave that varies in amplitude from millivolts at low rpm to a few volts at high rpm. This low voltage is very succeptable to RF noise and it also much harder for aftermarket ecu's to properly pick up. The hall sensor is a square wave signal, a very simple on/off signal. Much more accurate with most ecu's, especially AEM, and much less succeptable to RF noise. Alot of people have problems with high rpm misfires with the EMS that are caused by the honda distributor. They do not have the same problem with this trigger setup. You'll usually also notice a smoother, more stable idle at low rpms with this setup because the signal doesn't change relative to rpm, where as the oem signals become very weak at low rpm.

 

interesting info...

 

Thanks for saving me some time with this info!..cant wait to set my kit up..

 

i remember reading about his cam sensor a while back when he first did it on allens car. sickest hatch in dfw area !

 

Very nive write-up guys, well done

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You'll usually also notice a smoother, more stable idle at low rpms with this setup because the signal doesn't change relative to rpm, where as the oem signals become very weak at low rpm.</TD></TR></TABLE>


So true, this made a big difference in the smoothness of my idle. The car idles smoothly at 600 RPM if we want it to, plus my misfires are gone. JDogg showed me the timing input difference in the EMS and it was pretty amazing how much more even the Hall Effect signal is than the OEM distributor signal. I also put an oscilloscope on it and the timing pulses are a perfect square wave, the amplitude never varies and the transitions are all picture-perfect. I've been running this setup since last June and I love it.

 

you're welcome mase

but yeah, this thing works great.

the settings for the inj phase in mase's pdf only work if each injector output corresponds to the same cylinder, ie. inj1 is cylinder 1... on a couple of the older boxes this isnt the case (the 1010 i know for sure, not sure about the others). and DONT use coil output 4 on a 1010 ems, it will cook it as soon as you turn coil 4 on. if you have one of the odd ems's with the funky inj outputs, just cut the inj tooth in 1/2 and it will work fine.

 

Will this function with the S300 from Hondata or only AEM?

 

i have a 10-1020 box, am i going to need to open it up?

can someone clarify which model ecu's need to be opened up


also, which firing order are you running with this ? the c2di doenst like the 1342 order...(acording to cyl)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vti2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will this function with the S300 from Hondata or only AEM?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont think it will work with hondata because the ems has to have multiple coil outputs to my understanding

 

it will not work with anything based on the stock ecu

1000, 1001, 1020, 1012, 1010 all have to be modified by aem for this to work.. or if your tuner knows hte ems hardware they can do it.. i have done it several times

whats wrong w/the 1342 firing order?? 1 and 4 share power, 2 and 3 share power.. no problems there.. hell it will even fire 1 and 4 at the same time for waste spark apps using 4 coils.

 

how much does it cost...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darkdayz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dont think it will work with hondata because the ems has to have multiple coil outputs to my understanding</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think this is a common misunderstanding with this setup. This is on the input side of the ecu, while the ignition is on the output. You can run any ignition system with this setup, even stock. What determines if this will work with your computer is if it's configurable for a different input triggering pattern and signal. Art runs this trigger setup with an M&W Pro 10 single channel ignition system with the stock distributor there, just gutted. The stock distributor in that case only distributes spark, nothing else. It makes the car run better regardless of which ignition system you are using.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you're welcome mase

but yeah, this thing works great.

the settings for the inj phase in mase's pdf only work if each injector output corresponds to the same cylinder, ie. inj1 is cylinder 1... on a couple of the older boxes this isnt the case (the 1010 i know for sure, not sure about the others). and DONT use coil output 4 on a 1010 ems, it will cook it as soon as you turn coil 4 on. if you have one of the odd ems's with the funky inj outputs, just cut the inj tooth in 1/2 and it will work fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, thank you jdogg.