alright so this isnt another "how to spend your money topics." i have done plenty of research and cant find any info on a built b20v turbo. ive looked here, b20vtec, honda civic forum, etc..

so my question is.. Im up to the point where i wanna do my first swap and no im not doing any of the work. i have a shop and tuner in mind. so i want to boost it and be around the 300 hp. witch for either is doable. but i cant find any post of build threads on the b20v. for example just for parts for my engine i have about $3k saved for that. it would consist of.

b20 swap.
b16 or gsr head and possible head work or may do that later on.
debating on sleeving but if i plan to do the pistons rods and etc i mind as well.
ge vtec kit
b16 tranny for then short gears
etc

or should i take that $3k and buy a b18c form HMO. thats a question i ask my self. but thats besides the point because well with hybrids i heard if its built right it will last with no issues. yea im looking for 300 hp for now but just like anyone else i can see myself going bigger next yr.

so through all that my question is will a built b20v be better then a stock gsr turboed? yes ik the smart *** answer will be yea. but i wanna know why and how? is it because it has better torque? but on the flip side the gsr has much higher revs and will have a much better top end is my guess?and advise given thank you in advanced.

 

you can buy a ls block send it to laskey and have him sleeve and build you a block and just go ls turbo and make 300 whp. you will be pretty close on your budget though. when he builds it you can let him know that you want your pistons rods and crank balanced you can even add a girdle to help with reving.although for now since you will be stuck with a ls head unless you are willing to up your budget, you wont be able to rev high.always expect to spend more then your budget.also build it right the first time.even you said it yourself your going to want more power so why not sleeve and go built the first time.why i say go ls? cause its a cheaper start.buy everything to reach your ultimate power goal cause if you buy something that wont, you will have to buy it again and thats wasting alot of money.

 

300hp: ls block, arp head studs, new bearings and rings (pistons/rods shot peened or replace), fresh hone, boost.

Why the b20? And if you're going turbo why would you want shorter gears for a high revving motor with boost?

 

The best bet is to take $1100 of that 3K and sleeve the block, then invest the money into pistons and rods to match with the sleeved block. Use your B16 or GS-R head for the B20 Block

Here's the best order to do this:

1) use the GE B20/VTEC kit and sandwich plate and feed the head. Use the oil pressure sending unit from a standard -3AN line to feed the turbocharger

2) There's nothing wrong with making sure that the engine can take the power, by sleeving the block and installing internals. Short of that, you can put pistons and rods with the block, but you are limited to the amount of power due to the nature of the cylinder sleeve being weaker than those of the B18C1 and B18B1.
You really have to look at your budget for this one, as there are many ways to skin a cat here. Let us know your ULTIMATE budget, and we can do a better job helping you assess what you're trying to here.

 

thank you guys, the only reason i was looking into the b20 block vs the is more torque.. so at those those speeds i have some power. if i do the b20 it will be sleeved due to it being weaker with the 84mm vs the 81 the b18c and ls have. i will do the pistons,rods and all those just because im not going to do it twice. ured out brands yet. and as far as money i dont wanna go all out but i sure dont wanna cheap out either. just the engine i have set aside about 3gs for. witch includes sleeve and everything? i find b20s on craigslist fo $300-400 all the time. and fine p&p b16 and gsr for lik $300 all the time. ppl nee there crack money. the install is going to cost 1200 and havnt priced the turbo stuff yet. i have a little over 15 in the bank from selling my jeep and a auto accident but not trying to spend it all.

 

its weaker design but a b20 block will take 300whp witou a problem with a good tune and stay reliable. if you want to budget build then get a b18 block bore to 81.25-81.5mm and do pistons/rods your good for 400-500whp. there is no reason to spedn that kind of money on sleeving for such a low HP goal IMO but it is added security and if the funds are available it will give you alot more longevity out of the motor

 

Hey Shodan why cant you feed the turbo and the head from the oil sandwich plate?? That is my plan because my oil pressure sending unit threads in the block are F'd up and I dont want to remove the sending unit due to risk of an oil leak there.

 

x2, my oil sending threads are fine but I was planning on using the sandwhich plate as well, is this because of lack of oil pressure sending two different feeds?

 

I mean, I suppose you could, as there are two ports for those in the sandwich plate, but I'd like to have access for oil pressure or oil temperature, and would rather reserve one of those ports from the sandwich plate to perform that duty as opposed to using both lines for the feed to the head AND feed to the turbocharger. Without proper knowledge of your oil pressure, you could encounter something wrong and not know it, including whether or not a restrictor may or may not be needed for the turbocharger that you're using.

I guess I'm one of those guys that tries to plan 3 steps ahead instead of just looking at it from a convenience factor.

 

i would use a ls block and sleeve it to 84 mm. over here i m can find a ls block for cheaper and you will still be at 2.0 . also hit up laskeys racing he is a cool guy hooked me up with my sleeving.also guys he said he wont be assembling the block his self so i would say go with a built ls bottom end and arp head studs stay with a full ls i bet you will love the power you will get from a ls turbo

 

Oh ok. My sandwich plate has 4 outlet ports I think.
Boosted Ls is great but a boosted Ls Vtec is funner and more power on less boost.

 

Thanks again guys. Now if I go the route of the built ls should I even look into a vtec head or do straight ls?

 

Also what websites do you guys use to order parts from. Is there ones that are better then others?

 

call mike at laskey racing he can hook you up with pistons and rods and bearings ect.also with your budget i would just go straight ls now then save up for a vtec head swap.

 

^^ Plus one. You wont need to change the turbo system at all just swap with LS head for a Vtec head and retune.

 

mmmm. depending upon the turbo he starts out with.

 

Stock LS will do 300whp all day long with headstuds.

 

Check out my build, I started out with a stock sleeve ls block and now sleeved, Long story
short I have a stock LS block thats already decked, bored 81.5, line bored and all ready to go for ya. I also have the perfect cast manifold brand new and a treadstone TR8 intercooler
all fit for a good 300hp build....I upgrade everything and have no use, Lemme know

 

what would i have to do to use a gt35r? ik the fuel system as well as a built ls or lsv. im guessing headstuds, rods, pistons, maybe hone the block? or sleeving it?