JDM_ego2033

I知 gonna be boosting my civic within the next few months but before I do that I知 in the process of building the engine for the turbo. It痴 a GSR block with b16 head and I知 looking into supertech valve setup. I plan on going supertech everything valves,springs, keepers and retainers however I知 seeing different kinds of valve trains from supertech. I don稚 plan on going much higher than 20lbs of boost so how strong would I want the springs to be? And would it be safe to drive it with that valve train before boosting? I also plan on doing skunk2 pro1 cams with a bigger throttle body when I install the turbo.

turboLScrx

Why not just run the Skunk2 valvetrain. I personally use everything Skunk2. Ultra Valves, pro springs and retainers with the pro1 cams

JDM_ego2033

I was torn between Skunk2 and Supertech. They seem almost identical in performance and reliability but i keep hearing supertech is a little more commonly used for high performance cars. I dont plan on making this into a track car but its not exactly a daily either so im thinking i might as well go with the "track" options if that makes sense. However Skunk2 i believe is a very high named brand for that kind of build. are you running boost with those valves? and also would you recommend swapping out every part of the valve train including the valve guides with skunk2?

turboLScrx

From what ive seen, people has had more failures from super tech stuff. I’m running turbo for sure, currently just under 20psi and probably close to 600whp. My build thread is pretty long but it might be worth the read through
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...-fold-3325704/

Txdragon

Can't remember if it was Supertech valves paired with Ferrea valvetrain, or the other way around. I've heard mixed feelings about ANY Supertech valves and the Ferrea flat faced. Ferrea 6000 ftw. The rest? Skunk2 or Ferrea. I went with Ferrea 6000 turbo valves and comp springs, so, meh.. Be creative!! You'll be fine driving on them before turbo. Spring rates should be specified by the cam and intended use. Talk to an engine builder or even the cam techs you're buying the cam from. If it's Skunk2, DO NOT expect much help from their customer service.. Just sayin.. I love their products, I DESPISE their customer relations..

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You pick your valve train based upon the camshaft you're using and rpm limit, not boost pressure as that has nothing to do with the airflow capability of the actual camshaft you plan to use. So each valvetrain has a certain valve seat pressure to match with a variety of camshafts

turboLScrx

Agree 100%. It痴 the main reason I went all skunk2, I knew everything went together properly.

JDM_ego2033

So I read through your build list and it looks great! And that helped a lot cause we池e looking for basically the same thing. Now I知 not planning on porting the valves or anything as of now so I知 torn between keeping stock valves or going aftermarket. And I just saw something about supertech valves cracking not too long after installing. Idk how reliable that Info is but I saw it a couple times. I知 thinking either a supertech dual valve spring and retainer with ferrea valves or skunk2 dual valve springs with retainers and valves. And as for the cams I was considering Type R if I can find them if not I heard the skunk2 pro1 is best for boost. And whatever valvetrain I decide to use will be safe with GSR cams I知 assuming as well. I know all the parts have to go together otherwise you can damage or stress them out too much so I wanna make sure I do it all right and not get set bacj

turboLScrx

If you can give your power goal and use for the vehicle, I truly think you will be surprised by the quality responses you will get back. I built mine for track/street and I built it stronger than the average person needs. Mine is already worthless on the street at the power level it is set to currently, so I will turn it down to a more practical power while on the street. Since I drag race mine I needed to be able to turn 9000 plus rpms and I picked the best parts that Skunk2 offered for my head. For a 450hp or below, you can really keep the build pretty simple....... let us know your goals

JDM_ego2033

i would say for now 450 - 500hp is my max im looking for right now. im running a sleeved GSR block with 84.5mm bore with golden eagle rods and pistons. Im looking to make my civic into more of a street car. i have a daily driver car so my civic wont be a daily but i dont want it to be strictly a track car. i need to check the block because ive been getting a lot of white smoke and im assuming its head gasket obviously however i was messing with my exhaust header for a while and i heard a rumor you can hit a cooling port sometimes and that can cause you to get a coolant leak. im not overheating but i want to tear the engine down and rebuild it so while im there im planning on doing the upgrades as well

extremeracer

I ran all Supertech valvetrain and had no issues. B16A head, revving to 9200rpm, 25 psi boost, Crower 63401T cams, Original LMA's (changed to Skunk2 shortly before selling the car)

• Supertech 85psi springs
• Supertech Ti Retainers
• Supertech Inconel exhaust valves
• Black Nitrided intake valves

Balor_Gr

Every **** here runs supertech everything.
The only thing supertech i wouldnt use is the Valves.
The 85lbs valvesprings/ti retainers, i can say is the bread and butter of the honda turbo for a good 10++ years.

LightningTeg

I use a mix of eibach MVS 81 lb springs, supertech retainers, Sk2 LMAs, and supertech guides. Just make the spring rate is where you need it to be and send it .

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Not true LOL, I run all Ferrea LOL.

LightningTeg

You're in a different league lol

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

I'll be honest, when I had this car built for the street and track I used all Ferrea when I was only 600whp. Over the years the block, head and valve train never changed as I made more power all the way up to 1060whp. Only when I went from Skunk2 pro 1's to web cam pro's the only thing I changed was the valve springs and retainers again with Ferrea but 110lb springs from the 80lb spring I was running.

When the motor went and the rods blew out the back of my block at 11,000 rpms and the piston literally hit the head so hard it lifted it, all it did was slightly bend the valves on cylinder 3 I think, never broke them or anything.

Initially when I built my motor I built it with parts that would be safe to run over 1000whp even though at the time I was only running a t3t61 and street drove the car. I just figured that I would eventually want more power which I did LOL.

Txdragon

I'm Ferrea and comp.. **shrug**

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Nah. I've never run any Supertech anything. It's one of the more recent companies that at least still caters to the B-series crowd, but there's a lot more out there than Supertech. Not everyone runs it.

1HGEJ2

iTrader: (1)

i had no problems with supertech springs and ti retainer. my buddys too. skunk2 springs and retainer is running by friends b20 allmotor. no problem.

turboLScrx

I picked the Skunk2 pro springs since they are a perfect middle ground 93lbs, they are perfect for my pro1 cams and strong enough to still protect agaisnt over rev which just happened to me, If I had the 80lbs springs I feel pretty good I would have floated a valve and destroyed to engine . I decided to run everything Skunk2 and have been very happy with that decision

Skunk2 LMA’s
Skunk2 Pro springs
Skunk2 Ultra valves
Skunk2 Ultra retainers
Skunk2 valve seals
Skunk2 Pro1 cams
Skunk2 Alpha H-beam Rods
Skunk2 pro intake manifold
skunk2 radiator

Balor_Gr

Yeah by saying here iwas refering to my country. I most of the times like to overbuild so i got fwrrea this time
Now that i think about it 4piston was negative on the blue stuff because retainers were difficult to remove from the spring wich means bad things...

1158

9 years, 40-50k miles most between 470-520 whp with Supertech springs and retainers. Starting a new build and plan to keep using their stuff.

motoxxxman

A lot of the 900+hp guys in my state run all Supertech everything with zero issues.
The one thing I'll say though that most people don't think about, is Titanium retainers do wear. Almost all dropped valves are caused by titanium retainers (all brands) being used for too long without being replaced. Steel retainers do not wear. If the car is not driven a lot, Ti is fine. If the car IS driven a lot and you don't want to replace the retainers every year or two, stick with steel retainers to prevent damage. Some people will debate this. But the fact remains that I have never seen a single valve drop when steel retainers were used, not even with over 100k+ miles. And I've torn down a LOT of engines over the years, steel retainers never had wear, Ti retainers ALWAYS had wear

Boosted Chemist

iTrader: (1)

Glad to hear this, i have been thinking about valvetrain myself. I still have my built b16a which i ran supertech valves, portflow springs and retainers (old school) for 20K miles, but recently picked up a stock b18c; I plan to get it running NA for a bit then add boost. I was looking at doing a sk2 tuner1 cam with tuner or pro valve springs. I figure its good insurance and will respond well to boost down the road.

turboLScrx

Skunk2 parts have been good to me so far for sure, I知 very impressed with how smooth the cams low to high transition is