Hi guys I plan on doing a motor swap for my CRX SI once i save up a fre thousand dollars.

Now i need some advice on which method would be cheaper and more reliable.

I want alot of horsepower here but mainly reliability, i would happy enough hitting 300 HP which i know a Turbo-charged GSR would have no problem handling this, but my other option is to get a JDM B18C (Type-R) and just going all motor.

What path would be cheaper and more reliable??

I plan on heavily building the engine once i get, upgrading the cam gears, cam shaft, headers, ect...

So whats it gonna be guys??
Aggresively built GSR turbo charged
OR
A COMPLETELY built B18C??

remember im on a budget here, so im trying to see which one i can get the most bang for my buck, thanks!!!

(and yes i am aware that this B18 GSR turbo V.S. B18C all motor debate has been going on forever, i know wana get all my facts straight.)

 

build the bottom end if your going turbo

id go with the gsr + boost

 

well yeah of course im gonna build the block also.
I plan on going all out on this so my minds leaning towards a completely built GSR Boosted, im talking from performance pistons/rods to performance cam gears, shafts, ect..

BUT...
my wallet is leaning towards an aggresively built B18C (JDM Type-R)

does anybody with experience know any rough estimates or quote for these builds??

 

all motor is going to be cheaper if your on a budget. turbo will cost more and you will reach your power goals alot easier. just to swap engines \/ not including dyno time and tune.

all motor:
b18c5 swap est 3500-4000
mounts 200-300
t-bracket 20-50
axles 120-200
b18c5 throttle cable 30
shift linkage 100-150
engine management 200-750
exhaust 100-500
header 200-400
fuel pump upgrade 100
clutch kit 200-500

b18c1 turboed: everything above minus swap,header , type R throttle cable.
swap 2500-3000
turbo kit 1000-4000
gsr throttle cable 30


extra parts:
pistons and rods 700-1000
machine work 100-400
springs and retainers 200-350
camshafts 400-800
head studs 100-150
bearings 80-150
oil pump 100-140
water pump 30-60
head gasket 60-120
intake manifold for gsr 180-250
throttle body 130-400
timing belt 40-80
gasket kit 80-160

 

if you could afford a type R motor then you should just save up and get a k20a2 or k24a2 motor swap. These motors can produce 300 whp all motor and even more turboed. the cost is more though.

 

Thanks man i really aprreciate it.good info, ill look up on it.

A GSR turbo isnt sounding too bad right now either

 

Uh no... For a K swap you would have to get STEALS to be cheaper than a Type R swap... You want horsepower and reliability? Then boost a stock engine... Hands down. Built N/A is the least reliable, built turbo can be reliable but still won't last long 30~60k miles if done right... I have many decades of experience, take it or leave it.

 

How is a built N/A not reliable? (Not trying to argue, just trying to figure out where that's coming from.)

 

yeah i thought N/A would be more reliable.

MY friend just offered me a B20 block so i might just go with that and get a built GSR head for it. does anybody know exactly what B16 tranny is best for this set up?

 

For what I am talking about I mean BUILT... not headers, intake, and exhaust... High compression of at least 12:1, cams so big you sound like half a small block, runners so short you can't fit a $100 bill between the head and plennum, made to handle 1 million RPMs... The only way to get power out of a N/A Honda is to move the power band higher - RPMs kills motors regardless of the engine. Also the streetability of N/A is the worst... what you guys are talkin about sounds more like child's play... So I'll stay out of this one. You should frequent the Forced Inductiom and N/A forums more frequently - educate yourself.

 

figure out your budget and your hp goals. a stock gsr is good for about 300 hp give or take. then i would put forged internals if you want to get more hp. either way though without a good tune it wont last long so the key is in the tune it self.

 

if you want to go turbo do lots of research. understanding everything that is happen is important. heres a link on turbochargering check it out.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...o_tech101.html

 

I would personally go LSvtec with you favorite brand pistons and rods and boost it. The lsvtec will be cheaper than the gsr and make more torque.

 

Or simply take a B20 or LS crank and PUT it into the GS-R, and do the same thing without worrying about an LS/VTEC kit.

 

thats what i did and here I am now turbo ls/vtec

 

if i had a gsr block and head i would just get a gsr crank again for it. gsr blocks cost more and ls blocks are dime a dozen plus cheap.

 

So? Still doesn't change the fact that the LS Crank if sleeving makes a bit better torque over the powerband. You wanted options right? ;-)

 

market is really weird on these at the moment. gsr long blocks are going around 2000-2100 shipped and itr's only 2500.

 

The only difference between a B18C and GSR is 10 horsepower and it's just a diff head.

It would be cheaper to just get a GSR and boost it. If you have the money and want to spend it, Get a JDM B18C type R.

 

Or a B18 Spec-R!!!

 

ok so im about to get a 97 spec jdm b18c type r engine motor swap.

including the block/head/tranny/internals

now the question is, how do i make it fit into my 1990 crx si??
im about to buy the cable to tranny conversion and i can use my mounts from my b18ls swap.
can i also use the axels and shift linkage and whatever else i need form my ls swap or will i want to get better ones to handle the extra power?

 

also if you use the ls crank it changes your rod/stroke ratio. is it really worth it? just boost it some more or get it sleeved to 84 mm bore.

 

you can use most of the stuff from your ls swap. axles, half shaft, shift linkage. For the mounts the engine mount and the rear mount can be reused. now if you use a type r tranny which is a hydro tranny you will need a mount for a hydro tranny. cable tranny mounts are different from hydro tranny mounts. you will need a tunable ecu and a good tune. thats about it.

 

they are getting cheaper because of the k series engines.

 

this

and the k has a dual benefit. all the seals are newer. most the jdm B series are getting old and valve seals, crank seals, cam seals and the rest are starting to dry rot