Spark Plug Experts Needed
I've been looking around on a number of forums and I checked out the famous "dansmc" site with all the pictures but I couldn't find one that perfectly matches what mine look like. Here's a picture of what they look like. There's obviously a lot of carbon buildup but it's only on the last ring and everything else looks perfect. What can you guys tell me?
P.S. Stock internal B18B (80k), t3/t4 A/R .50 turbo running 7psi, 440cc RC injectors, walboro fuel pump, dynotuned on Hondata.
P.S. Stock internal B18B (80k), t3/t4 A/R .50 turbo running 7psi, 440cc RC injectors, walboro fuel pump, dynotuned on Hondata.
timing looks ok on the ground strap, but it is running pig rich. were the plugs pulled out after a wot pull or after alot of idleing? do you have a wideband?
i don't know if it's the pic or my eyes but that looks more white than tan... and the color change is not as progressive as i'd like....
My guess looking at that is a tad too rich and a tad too much timing... what i'd do is back out some timing and look at the coloration after that, my guess is things will get cooler and the overrichness will be more apparent, the whole thing will go black (even the tip) and then i'd back out the fuel a tad.
But you say it's tuned already so who knows... I'd love to hear a 2nd opinion.
My guess looking at that is a tad too rich and a tad too much timing... what i'd do is back out some timing and look at the coloration after that, my guess is things will get cooler and the overrichness will be more apparent, the whole thing will go black (even the tip) and then i'd back out the fuel a tad.
But you say it's tuned already so who knows... I'd love to hear a 2nd opinion.
The plugs were pulled after relatively calm driving and a decent amount of idling. I know the best is to pull them right after a WOT run but that wasn't really a possibility. Also, I unfortunately don't have a wideband.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/engine-management-tuning-124/spark-plug-reading-pictures-2502308/
you are running way rich. that looks like a plug that is running in the 10afr but if you dont shut it off at different rpms then you have know idea what rpm you are to rich at. you could be running rich at idle or cruising making your plug look like that. you must do a wot pull then shut it off at say 5000 then every 1000 rpm after that
you are running way rich. that looks like a plug that is running in the 10afr but if you dont shut it off at different rpms then you have know idea what rpm you are to rich at. you could be running rich at idle or cruising making your plug look like that. you must do a wot pull then shut it off at say 5000 then every 1000 rpm after that
has it ever been tuned if not get it tuned. i would take out fuel but you are blind as what rpm you should take it out. i would either save up to get a wideband or get it tuned. i bought a wideband tuned my own car. this took me awhile to learn how to tune. but very much worth it in the end. i tuned the fuel to mid 11s afr then tuned the timing. p
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has it ever been tuned if not get it tuned. i would take out fuel but you are blind as what rpm you should take it out. i would either save up to get a wideband or get it tuned. i bought a wideband tuned my own car. this took me awhile to learn how to tune. but very much worth it in the end. i tuned the fuel to mid 11s afr then tuned the timing. p
get a wideband and an EGT
pull some timing out to be safe
retune the fuel based on your wideband
check the plugs again
dial timing back in again and check your EGT's and plug ground strap...
That's the way to do it on the street...
Then run it in a different load range (such as a 4th or 5th gear pull) and make sure your tune isn't too aggressive and that your AFR's and EGT's stay stable in different load locations.....
pull some timing out to be safe
retune the fuel based on your wideband
check the plugs again
dial timing back in again and check your EGT's and plug ground strap...
That's the way to do it on the street...
Then run it in a different load range (such as a 4th or 5th gear pull) and make sure your tune isn't too aggressive and that your AFR's and EGT's stay stable in different load locations.....
I think by giving him any sort of advice based on the plug demonstrated would be irrelevant since the plug was NOT pulled at WOT but after a good amount of time idling... For a more accurate response or result:
1) Get a wideband sensor
2) Pull the plugs at WOT, not at idle
1) Get a wideband sensor
2) Pull the plugs at WOT, not at idle
as far as the grounding strap goes, where should the optimal timing mark be? and how do you tell if the tune has to much timing? where would the timing mark be on the ground strap?
Also, if I'm tuned on Hondata, could I just get it street tuned to fine tune my AFR instead of paying for a whole other dyno tuning session?
Care to elaborate on that for me please? My knowledge of tuning is pretty basic so I'd like to understand better why dyno tuning only isn't the best option.
Also, if I'm tuned on Hondata, could I just get it street tuned to fine tune my AFR instead of paying for a whole other dyno tuning session?
Also, if I'm tuned on Hondata, could I just get it street tuned to fine tune my AFR instead of paying for a whole other dyno tuning session?
street tuning involves tuning the part throttle maps so yes, you can get your tuner to tune it withou getting on the dyno again. Some people claim to be able to tune part throttle/low cam maps on the dyno, but that is not the realistic environment. Driving the car on the street, tuning in real time and datalogging is the BEST option for tuning a motor below WOT.
and beyond that, when you are done doing WOT tuning on the dyno, you should really test it on the street (given the car will hook without having to go 130mph) because often the load difference between dyno and street will change the AFR.
So a friend and I took off my hood. We then put a 5 Gallon tank with compressed air in the back. We ran the hose to the front with the 1/2" impact. I had him sit on the motor/windshield and I began to floor it to WOT. As soon as I hit 9,000 RPM I had him zip out the plug on the Number 1 Cylinder. Well it caused the car to sputter and stop running. The car came to a rather abrupt stop, and my friend flew off into on coming traffic. Needless to say the tickets were not cheap and neither was his funeral. Well that was a few years ago and now I need to tune it again. Are there any better ways to pull out a plug at WOT?
(Sorry I kind of figured this thread was lost because the OP can't read a plug so there is no way he can tune a motor safely.)
(Sorry I kind of figured this thread was lost because the OP can't read a plug so there is no way he can tune a motor safely.)
you pull the plugs where in the load/rpm range you are looking to inspect. Doesnt have to be WOT.
hard to tell from the picture other than its rich. i dont see how anyone can give you advice on the timing strap when its blurry.
i see that you are dyno tuned. This is the WHOLE reason i refuse to do just dyno tuning. A customer leaves with a ****/ half-assed part throttle map.
hard to tell from the picture other than its rich. i dont see how anyone can give you advice on the timing strap when its blurry.
i see that you are dyno tuned. This is the WHOLE reason i refuse to do just dyno tuning. A customer leaves with a ****/ half-assed part throttle map.
. Not that its a bad idea to check things over on the street, but with the right dyno you can tune part throttle no problem.
So a friend and I took off my hood. We then put a 5 Gallon tank with compressed air in the back. We ran the hose to the front with the 1/2" impact. I had him sit on the motor/windshield and I began to floor it to WOT. As soon as I hit 9,000 RPM I had him zip out the plug on the Number 1 Cylinder. Well it caused the car to sputter and stop running. The car came to a rather abrupt stop, and my friend flew off into on coming traffic. Needless to say the tickets were not cheap and neither was his funeral. Well that was a few years ago and now I need to tune it again. Are there any better ways to pull out a plug at WOT?
(Sorry I kind of figured this thread was lost because the OP can't read a plug so there is no way he can tune a motor safely.)
(Sorry I kind of figured this thread was lost because the OP can't read a plug so there is no way he can tune a motor safely.)
my coupe was street tuned and it is very drivable but next time after some more upgrades and more boost, dyno then street tune.
how come you don't have a wideband ?
You're right, I don't know how to properly read a plug but I'm not retarded and I can learn. However tuning my own setup is out of the question for now. To show you a better example of what my plugs look like, they look a lot like ashb82's plugs that he posted a while back. I think they look pretty good for plugs with around 10k on them.
well you should be fine that plug i had afr of 11.2 to 10.8 afr you will not make max power but be should be safe to not blow a ringland or drop a valve.i would not worry about it. i did up my timing and take out a little fuel after that. my plugs now are a tan color like a cardboard box. I do think you should invest in a wideband because i was able to get some very good mpg. i just dont see how a tuner could get you good mpg on a dyno like street tuning can.


