Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside
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Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside
Just pulled these from my motor, they look a little white, but I can't tell if they are just old or if it's from detonation, they've been in there for about 10,000 miles. Is this bad???
Modified by 2000GSRT at 2:56 PM 9/13/2003
Modified by 2000GSRT at 6:52 PM 9/13/2003
Modified by 2000GSRT at 12:16 AM 9/14/2003
Modified by 2000GSRT at 2:56 PM 9/13/2003
Modified by 2000GSRT at 6:52 PM 9/13/2003
Modified by 2000GSRT at 12:16 AM 9/14/2003
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Re: Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside (GraphiteAccord)
yeah sorry, I was trying to zoom in on it cuz it's kinda hard to see, but honda-tech keeps resizing the image everytime I try.
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Re: Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside (2000GSRT)
I'd like to know too. Do plugs need to get a certain amount of mileage on them before they start to show a true representation of the combustion process?
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#8
Re: Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside (95c1v1cs1)
It is pretty hard to tell for me (the picture is a bit small). however, here is a good site that should help you read your own plugs.
HTH!
http://www.classictruckshop.co...s.htm
HTH!
http://www.classictruckshop.co...s.htm
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Re: Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside (B94Cast)
add .orig.jpg on the end to get a better picture. And i would look into whoever did your tuning, because plugs on a F/I car are usually dark brown w/ a little black from running richer then normal
#11
Re: Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside (PureTeg420)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PureTeg420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">add .orig.jpg on the end to get a better picture. And i would look into whoever did your tuning, because plugs on a F/I car are usually dark brown w/ a little black from running richer then normal</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the image tip.
After seeing the plugs with the larger image, I would guess at the following:
Timing advanced too much for your boost. (are you using a BTM?)
Engine running hot as a result of the timing.
Thats my 2 coppers anyways.
edit: P.S. My plugs look like PureTeg420 said when I change them. dark brown, almost the color of instant coffee (best I could think of with close color match! )
Thanks for the image tip.
After seeing the plugs with the larger image, I would guess at the following:
Timing advanced too much for your boost. (are you using a BTM?)
Engine running hot as a result of the timing.
Thats my 2 coppers anyways.
edit: P.S. My plugs look like PureTeg420 said when I change them. dark brown, almost the color of instant coffee (best I could think of with close color match! )
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Re: Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside (B94Cast)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B94Cast »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thanks for the image tip.
After seeing the plugs with the larger image, I would guess at the following:
Timing advanced too much for your boost. (are you using a BTM?)
Engine running hot as a result of the timing.
Thats my 2 coppers anyways.
edit: P.S. My plugs look like PureTeg420 said when I change them. dark brown, almost the color of instant coffee (best I could think of with close color match! ) </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmmm.....well I haven't had my car tuned yet, I'm running somebody elses map until I can get up enough money to get it tuned.
I guess I have two options as of now:
1. retard the ignition timing by retarding the intake cam, or...
2. mix a little race gas (110) with pump gas everytime I fill it up.
Which do you guys think is best???
BTW, I do get some activity on the J&S under full throttle sometimes, so I'm pretty sure the motor has seen some detonation
Thanks for the image tip.
After seeing the plugs with the larger image, I would guess at the following:
Timing advanced too much for your boost. (are you using a BTM?)
Engine running hot as a result of the timing.
Thats my 2 coppers anyways.
edit: P.S. My plugs look like PureTeg420 said when I change them. dark brown, almost the color of instant coffee (best I could think of with close color match! ) </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmmm.....well I haven't had my car tuned yet, I'm running somebody elses map until I can get up enough money to get it tuned.
I guess I have two options as of now:
1. retard the ignition timing by retarding the intake cam, or...
2. mix a little race gas (110) with pump gas everytime I fill it up.
Which do you guys think is best???
BTW, I do get some activity on the J&S under full throttle sometimes, so I'm pretty sure the motor has seen some detonation
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Re: Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside (2000GSRT)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000GSRT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">???
[/i]</TD></TR></TABLE>
[/i]</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside (2000GSRT)
If the picture I've seen of your spark plugs is correct, then you are burning on the "starting to get" lean side.
How do you drive? Lots of high speeds on highways/freeways? Turbo or non-turbo motor? What octane gas do you MOST often use in the engine?
If you have a fuel regulator or fuel computer, you can try to richen the mixture up a bit (B&M fuel riser, HKS A/F meter, etc.). It'll help get better plug readings, but going TOO rich will make your plugs black rather than white. If you do a lot of frequent high speed (highway/freeway) driving, or have a turbo, try plugs that are ONE heat range colder than stock. It'll help to cool your cylinders by letting out cylinder combustion heat quicker.
How do you drive? Lots of high speeds on highways/freeways? Turbo or non-turbo motor? What octane gas do you MOST often use in the engine?
If you have a fuel regulator or fuel computer, you can try to richen the mixture up a bit (B&M fuel riser, HKS A/F meter, etc.). It'll help get better plug readings, but going TOO rich will make your plugs black rather than white. If you do a lot of frequent high speed (highway/freeway) driving, or have a turbo, try plugs that are ONE heat range colder than stock. It'll help to cool your cylinders by letting out cylinder combustion heat quicker.
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Re: Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside (OptionMan)
Most of the time and miles put on my car are when I'm driving on the freeway doing like 80, so you think a colder plug is the answer??
#19
Re: Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside (PRojectSi2)
http://www.dansmc.com/spark_pl....html
that should help you out... but like everyone else said, from here it looks like your are starting to lean out...
that should help you out... but like everyone else said, from here it looks like your are starting to lean out...
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Re: Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside (2000GSRT)
You can try a spark plug that is ONE heat range colder, but I'd recommend trying to get your Air/Fuel rate balanced out first. The reason, by the way, that I type one as "ONE" is that going to cold of a plug will ruin the car's daily driveability.
Anyways, I am assuming that with frequent highway type driving and those plugs, you've probably installed items such as an intake (looks like cold air), and exhaust with most likely exhaust manifold as well.
Did you ever think to install a APEX'i SAFC or HKS A/F meter? Or a more simple but effective item like an AEM fuel regulator or B&M fuel riser? These components will allow you to increase fuel pressure and help out your air/fuel ratio. Your local tuning shop, if they are any good, should be able to suggest a fuel rate suitable to your car's mods. Otherwise, you can try to EMAIL InlineFour.com and explain your plugs in detail.
If you got a Turbo on your motor, then I would RECOMMEND that you get some sort of fuel management (SAFC, Fuel Reg.) for sure along with better plugs.
Anyways, I am assuming that with frequent highway type driving and those plugs, you've probably installed items such as an intake (looks like cold air), and exhaust with most likely exhaust manifold as well.
Did you ever think to install a APEX'i SAFC or HKS A/F meter? Or a more simple but effective item like an AEM fuel regulator or B&M fuel riser? These components will allow you to increase fuel pressure and help out your air/fuel ratio. Your local tuning shop, if they are any good, should be able to suggest a fuel rate suitable to your car's mods. Otherwise, you can try to EMAIL InlineFour.com and explain your plugs in detail.
If you got a Turbo on your motor, then I would RECOMMEND that you get some sort of fuel management (SAFC, Fuel Reg.) for sure along with better plugs.
#21
Re: Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside (OptionMan)
i believe the best way to read plugs is to do a full throttle pass, shut down car and then pull plugs and check em. if you drove around town normally and then pulled em it will be different. you need to check em after your fuel system is working at its fullest(full boost).
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Re: Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside (quickda6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quickda6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe the best way to read plugs is to do a full throttle pass, shut down car and then pull plugs and check em. if you drove around town normally and then pulled em it will be different. you need to check em after your fuel system is working at its fullest(full boost).</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are correct, this is how most drag racers still tune to this day with carbs.
You are correct, this is how most drag racers still tune to this day with carbs.
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Re: Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside (2000GSRT)
Look, I'm not exactly sure why every wannabe tuner out there thinks that if you have forced induction your plugs should be soot black, but the plugs you took out of your engine and photographed look just fine.
I have tuned tons and tons of cars making from very little to very ridiculous amounts of power, and if I had a set of plugs that were the color of yours, I wouldn't touch the fuel at all.
I might retard the FULL LOAD timing only, just about 1 or tqo degrees, but other than that, those plugs don't show any obvious signs of detonation, cracking, or overheating at all. Going to a colder plug is only goinng to reduce your mileage, make it harder to start, and lower your power.
Leave 'em alone.......
You want to look for the proper coloring on the ceramic and electrode...a light grey to light tan is ideal, as long as there is no bubbling or blistering of the ceramic, and no cracking. On the electrode, look for it to change color slightly right at the middle of the bend......too much before the bend means it needs some more timing, and too much after means it wants a bit less.
Hope that helps
-Ben
I have tuned tons and tons of cars making from very little to very ridiculous amounts of power, and if I had a set of plugs that were the color of yours, I wouldn't touch the fuel at all.
I might retard the FULL LOAD timing only, just about 1 or tqo degrees, but other than that, those plugs don't show any obvious signs of detonation, cracking, or overheating at all. Going to a colder plug is only goinng to reduce your mileage, make it harder to start, and lower your power.
Leave 'em alone.......
You want to look for the proper coloring on the ceramic and electrode...a light grey to light tan is ideal, as long as there is no bubbling or blistering of the ceramic, and no cracking. On the electrode, look for it to change color slightly right at the middle of the bend......too much before the bend means it needs some more timing, and too much after means it wants a bit less.
Hope that helps
-Ben
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Re: Spark Plug Analysis: Pics inside (2000GSRT)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000GSRT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. retard the ignition timing by retarding the intake cam, or...
2. mix a little race gas (110) with pump gas everytime I fill it up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
First, the camshaft timing and ignition timing are not related in any way.......advancing or retarding the camshafts will have no effect on the ignition timing..{technically it could, but this is the wrong way to do it}.......you need to move the distributor to advance or retard the timing.
Second, adding race fuel to regular fuel in order to improve the octane rating is not a great way to avoid knock. It is cumbersome, and kind of a hassel, and the results really aren't too effective. Proper tuning will negate the need for all the extra work!
hope that helps.
-Ben
1. retard the ignition timing by retarding the intake cam, or...
2. mix a little race gas (110) with pump gas everytime I fill it up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
First, the camshaft timing and ignition timing are not related in any way.......advancing or retarding the camshafts will have no effect on the ignition timing..{technically it could, but this is the wrong way to do it}.......you need to move the distributor to advance or retard the timing.
Second, adding race fuel to regular fuel in order to improve the octane rating is not a great way to avoid knock. It is cumbersome, and kind of a hassel, and the results really aren't too effective. Proper tuning will negate the need for all the extra work!
hope that helps.
-Ben