Here's the problem. The Car will start and rev real quick vrooom and just die. It bucks and hesitates pretty bad, bad enough for it to not be drivable. In order to keep it alive you need to pump the gas pedal, if you hold the gas at say 20% throttle the power will cut in and out and the car die out. There is no CEL Lights at all. The first thing I did was test the spark plug wires, those checked out bad, so I replaced them The car ran excellent after that for oneday, and then the following day when I went to start it, it was back to doing the same crap again.

I just replaced:

Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Fuel Filter
Cap
Rotor

and still the same problem . . . . after I dropped the new spark plugs in started the car and just kept revving it for like a minute I pulled the plugs and they had already started turning black . . . . am I running way to rich? Could this problem still lie in the dist. or?

Setup:

VAFC
DSM 450's
Walboro 255lph
Turbonetics T3/T4 etc . . . .

anyone got an diea as to what it could be? I found that my bov was not connected and thought that that might have been the reason due to vacuum but that didn't solve it.

 

Do a compression check. Sounds like you lost compression in one of the cylinders.

 

I did all are good I just found out I was running pig rich . . . took it from -32 down to -40 and it started right up

 

So it's fixed?

 

Damn -32 that is ******* rich.

Glad you solved your problems.

You know if your timing is one teeth off on one of the cam, your plugs can do that also. Happen to me and it pissed me that I messed up my ignition timing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m R g S r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So it's fixed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

NOPE correction . . . . it ran good for about 10 minutes with no hesitation or anything . . . . . smooth idle and all. Went in the house to clean up and get ready to head out to vacuum my car, and when I came back out to start the car up it just did the same **** all over again . . . .

wouldn't idle right, would just die out. I don't think it would be off a tooth because the car was perfectly fine, and then all of a sudden oneday when I went to start the car and drive it it started doing the bucking thing really bad and lead to this point.

I checked my sensors, made sure they were all plugged in the correct spots and what not. This **** is so frustrating . . . . anyone know what this could be?

 

BUMP

 

I seen timing belts slip a tooth before. Just double the tension on the Timing belt and the timing.

 

its real easy to check your timing so i would do that first, then go back and look at your vafc and make sure all the setting are correct

 

well my thing would be how could I check my timing if the car does not idle at all? In order to keep the car idling you need to pump the gas, and there is no way u can check the timing doing that since the rpms would fluctuate way to much. What's the easiest way to tell if my timing belt slipped a tooth?

 

Now might be a good time to think about better engine management?

Just an idea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mad Cow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now might be a good time to think about better engine management?

Just an idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah that's true but with my funds all tied up in trying to get parts to solve this problem can't really do that. I don't mind the hack because I have never had any trouble with it at all before, atleast never to this extent. I still really think it's a fuel or spark issue, because it's funny that when I took fuel away on the vafc from -32 to -40 the car started right up and ran good for about 15 minutes, then it went back to it's old ways.

 

soon to drop some explosives in the car and blow it up . . . . someone HELP! Prob. gona take it to a mechanic soon.

 

Just a thought but I just changed injectors the other day and had to wire in a resistor box. The car ran like total **** and hardly idled after I was done.

It turned out that I had an injector wire that had come undone and wasn't letting the injector fire. Found it and fixed it and all was perfect.

 

Think the MAP and TPS plugs could be mixed up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Think the MAP and TPS plugs could be mixed up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

he said there was no CEL..

couldnt a bent valve cause a problem similar to this?

 

Hey you didn't mention what kind of ignition you were using, so I'm assuming stock. I had a really simple problem with my msd the other day.
The wire coming from the distributor (the one that goes into the msd box) was partially disconnected. So I guess it was kinda cutting in and out, but my car started sputtering horribly, tach jumping up and down from idle to 5krpm's, and then I pulled over and it idled fine. Started driving again and it just cut out and died. I re-connected it and the car works fine now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo_BumblBee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">couldnt a bent valve cause a problem similar to this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn, thats right. Bent valves also will do this. Did you do a compression check??

If so, what are the readings??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brkrnu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a thought but I just changed injectors the other day and had to wire in a resistor box. The car ran like total **** and hardly idled after I was done.

It turned out that I had an injector wire that had come undone and wasn't letting the injector fire. Found it and fixed it and all was perfect.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

with all that said and done I will re check my wiring to the resistor box for sure and see if that solves a problem, but I know when my injector wire came lose once the CEL light came on, but it doesn't hurt to re check the box and all.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX T-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Damn, thats right. Bent valves also will do this. Did you do a compression check??

If so, what are the readings??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Compression check was mid 190's acorss the board, but I will go and double and even tripple check it later today after my friend gets off work

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m R g S r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey you didn't mention what kind of ignition you were using, so I'm assuming stock. I had a really simple problem with my msd the other day.
The wire coming from the distributor (the one that goes into the msd box) was partially disconnected. So I guess it was kinda cutting in and out, but my car started sputtering horribly, tach jumping up and down from idle to 5krpm's, and then I pulled over and it idled fine. Started driving again and it just cut out and died. I re-connected it and the car works fine now. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My ignition is 100% stock the only thing that was altered was putting the new cap and rotor on, and the skunk2 cam gear, and new wires, that was it, no MSD or anything.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo_BumblBee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

he said there was no CEL..

couldnt a bent valve cause a problem similar to this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no idea what bent valves would sound or feel like. mny car does not tick or make any weird sounds like you would hear if there was a bent valve. my friends car made a horrible sound when he had a bent valve, so I doubt that is the problem but it could be.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Think the MAP and TPS plugs could be mixed up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dax I did that once when I first put my motor in but I tried even reversing them from the way that they are now and still the samething.

I get the impression that it could be a wire, something small as usual. The other day I got it to idle fine by taking fuel away. it was perfectly fine for about 10-15 minutes, then it went back to it's old ways. I am thinking of taking it to a shop today, but if I can figure it out on my own and with your guys help that would be awesome!

Actually the car would go to a mechanic and in that case he might not find anything since he's just a reg. mechanic and doesn't know about the mods.

 

So, did you check the timing belt for slippage?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by porsche997 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, did you check the timing belt for slippage?</TD></TR></TABLE>

someone did mention that to me, but how can I tell if it slipped or not? Also, I have been told by several people that it sounds like my main relay needs to be checked because the symptoms for that are the car starting and dieing out.

Any imput on that?

 

check your IM. Do have an helm's manual? If you don't, you should buy one. It's the best investment I made.

 

I got a Chiltons that I keep in my car, and I got the Helms in PDF format.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vtec92Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got a Chiltons that I keep in my car, and I got the Helms in PDF format. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Print out the helms and throw away the chiltons

Yes, next thing would be to check timing.