wpgcivic

i am in the process of building up a single cam
this is for a eg cx
d16a6 block with srp pistons
z6 head

for you guys making 250+ whp
what did you do for valve train to get it to hold up?

did you sleeve? what kind of rods did you use?

finally what size turbo did you go with?

thanks, sean

beerbongskickass

The stock head will work. You won't need sleeves. Any forged rod will work (eagle, crower, pauter, etc...). Any decent size turbo will work, try a t3 super 60 or small t3/t4, depends on your goals.

wpgcivic

the turbo i am using is from a 300zx tt, its the larger of the t3's from it, my brother made 238 with the turbo on a stock a6 at 11 psi

i want to hit near 300 whp, i just want to make sure that the engine could take it

near the end of the season the head on his car was ticking really bad, i wanna make sure that doesnt happen to me

W O T

Maybe it just needed a valve adjustment?

Anyways, Im looking for 300whp as well and with your turbo it may take a little more push.

I went full out with the head just because I like revving high and I got it pre-built form someone who became poor and needed the money lol

Deltat 272 cam
Port n polish (was a sick job)
3 angle valve job
1mm oversized titanium valves
Dual titanium valve springs
Fererrea retainers
.040 milled
AEM Adj Cam gear

Picked it up for $400 on here

Pretty cool to see another canadian into performance, there arent to many of us lol

For the block Ive for SRP 9:1's (about 9.8:1 with milled head)
Eagle H beam rods
Fully balanced and micropolished crank
Stock A6 headgasket
ARP headstuds

Just dont go cheap on the little things

I plan on running 16-18psi on a t3 .60/.63 with a ramhorn manifold and full 3" exhaust

I absolutely MUST get 300whp and an 11 sec timeslip. Ive got a lot of other **** including slicks,lsd, venom intake mani, JG 64mm t/b

Ive done it all for less than $4000 canadian which is pretty sick

Hope to see you at the track maybe after our shitty winter

MooreBoost

Dont build a motor for 250whp. Tune it right and settle for ~210 on stock internals.

If you want near 300 like you said, you could use SCAT rods and Vitara pistons if you wanted to low buck it. I will be shooting for ~375 when I'm done, and purchased SRP pistons and Crower I-Beams.

wpgcivic

where abouts do you live WOT? in winnipeg we have a couple 12 second hondas. next year we wil be much faster as sleeving is the new thing to do , your setups looks nice

yeah im also going with a z6 headgasket, arp rod bolts and head bolts, pnp head, 3 angle valve job, decked .040...might go with an zex or some other cam but not too sure on that yet

wpgcivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont build a motor for 250whp. Tune it right and settle for ~210 on stock internals.

If you want near 300 like you said, you could use SCAT rods and Vitara pistons if you wanted to low buck it. I will be shooting for ~375 when I'm done, and purchased SRP pistons and Crower I-Beams.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well yeah 300 is my goal...i dont wanna cheap out on this as this engine is in my daily driver..i have srps already but still need rods

yeah my brother made 238 on stock internals and was fast as hell, but i need faster

platinum00

if you already got SRP's use those. they will be fine for 300whp.

pick up a set of nice rods. eagles are decently priced and are real nice.

you dont need to do anything to the head for 300.

just get some good engine mangement and tune her.

good luck

platinum.

wpgcivic

yeah im using a p28 and getting it tuned on a mustang dyno with uberdata so tuning really shouldnt be a problem

Garcia-Racing

I made just under 270 like 6 years back on D16a6 block, LS rods, and SRP pistons on my daily driver. This was with a chipped p28, pump and regulator setup. Stock head and 370cc inj. I switched to speed pro on it and made just over 300whp on 550's. There are much better parts available now.

.::Lee::.

I've seen up to 420 hp on stock z6 head. I wouldn't worry about the head that much.

wpgcivic

should i go with rods like crower or do like said above and do ls?

platinum00

LS rods are ok.

but i would look at how much work your doing to replace the rods in the 1st place and then try to justify why for a couple hundred bucks more you wouldnt just get something that can for sure hold the power.

this way you have nothing to worry about, and if later you want a little more power you know the motor will take it.

platinum.

wpgcivic

yeah good point, why am i doing stuff like srp's and other crap and cheap out on something important like that...

MooreBoost

I agree w/ Platinum. When you're already going through the trouble of building the motor you may as well do it right the first time. You will be kicking yourself if the LS rods ever start to limit you.

boostincoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The stock head will work. You won't need sleeves. Any forged rod will work (eagle, crower, pauter, etc...). Any decent size turbo will work, try a t3 super 60 or small t3/t4, depends on your goals.</TD></TR></TABLE>

At what point do you need to start doing upgrades to the head, if you're revving to stock redline? Or are they only needed if you're looking to rev to 8k+?

MooreBoost

I'm very, very unclear on this subject but it seems to me you would only need to upgrade the head if you were to surpass the stock redline. At some point the stock cam might limit you especially on high boost, and if you were to swap the cam to a high profile turbo cam then you would probably also swap the valve springs.

boostincoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm very, very unclear on this subject but it seems to me you would only need to upgrade the head if you were to surpass the stock redline. At some point the stock cam might limit you especially on high boost, and if you were to swap the cam to a high profile turbo cam then you would probably also swap the valve springs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I asked because I spent $300 rebuilding my head to OEM specs when I did my HG this summer, and I wanted to make sure that it will work fine for 300-350whp when I build my block in the future.

MooreBoost

It shouldn't be a problem what so ever for that whp.

beerbongskickass

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At what point do you need to start doing upgrades to the head, if you're revving to stock redline? Or are they only needed if you're looking to rev to 8k+?</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ibiza &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen up to 420 hp on stock z6 head. I wouldn't worry about the head that much.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well a nice cam, valves, springs, port & polish, etc... can only help, but for your goals of 300-350whp it's not absolutely necessary. If your on a budget I would just worry about the bottom end first. As long as you keep the stock redline you should be fine with the stock head.

platinum00

i 2nd beerbongskickass




platinum

wpgcivic

yeah i am keeping the rev limiter but might raise it to about 7600 ish, yeah i am always worried about the bottom end so i am going to build it pretty solid, the head will just be cleaned up

96-EJ6 B18C

Keep it coming. More info on SOHC setups