SDT Project EF

i have a 89 si hatch with D16Z6 and home made turbo kit, i ran the file to fit chip and it ran great. Then i decided to get the SMC+ to upgrade so i can dynotune it and have it run good. So I installed the SMC+ and it runs but sometimes it will bog and shut off. I played with the fuel settings and now it idles fine but its rough when driving around. I drove down the street and when you gave it some gas it would jerk and buck makin it very hard to drive. Once you hit boost and you go a little * i mean liek 3K RPM * itll buck .. and if you let off the gas it will just shut off and coast. any ideas ?? possible ignitor ?? spark plugs from runnin too rich during initial start ups ??

Mr. Softee

sounds too rich

turbod16y8

i just installed my smc+ without turbo yet and at first it was bogging alot but after 15 minutes of tuning it drove smoothly like stock. just play with it a lil more. if you're running the file chip with it too. its probably running troo rich. try turning it down.

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iTrader: (1)

he took the file to fit chip out

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iTrader: (1)

ttt

SDT Project EF

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SDT Project EF

ok i figure it might be my distributor crapping out on me so i swapped the distributor with another one that i know is good, same **** no cashew. I think maybe my plugs are fouled out and i swapp to new plugs, it runs a LITTLE better but quicky goes back to ****, my settings are pretty much -46 idle and -34-39 thoughout the power band, except for 1-2K which is liek at -45ish. and i noticed also when i hopped in my car it started clicking like it has no juice and then all of the sudden itll click and start up with no problem. It did at least 10 starts yesterday no problem and then when i was done with it, it woudlnt start, itll just keep on clickin. the car runs fine from idle to 3K RPM, you give it more than 1/6th throttle and theb ogging problem arises and the car will go to **** after that!. once the bogging sets in the car deosnt wanna idle and it just * putts* away. Sounds like its missing but it doesnt seem like thats the problem. =T any idea guys >>???

zip

Have you tried -25 to -35% at idle up to 1.5K settings? Cold idle usually revs the engine to 1500rpms. Idle rpm settings are usually set richer than any other rpm band since the injectors take time open at low duty cycles. Perform an ECU reset by pulling the 15A E/M fuse located in the engine bay. Wait 5 minutes, reinstall the fuse, start the motor and let it idle for 5 minutes without touching the gas pedel, or turning on any accessories. Start adjusting the corrections and feel free to go higher or lower than the recommended settings since those are general corrections, but each motor will react differently, so you may need to lean or richen the idle mixture appropriate to your setup.

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iTrader: (1)

at start up iddle the car runs fine, it could sit there for a whilel and not have a problem but once you start driving and the bogging commences the idle will justt go to **** and itll bog and youll give it tgas but it wont go itll just put around like its on 2 cylinders

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iTrader: (1)

cmon .. anyone got any insights >?

fsp31

Have you checked the SMC output with a voltmeter? With the maplimiter this worked pretty well for me but I don't know if these values will apply to the SMC due to rpm adjustment. I was experiencing the exact same thing you are...

First, warm up the engine thoroughly. With the key turned "on", but the engine not running, you should read 1.7 - 2.0 volts (preferrably right around 1.8, 2 is pushing it). When I first hooked up the voltmeter, I read almost 2.25 volts so obviously my car was running super rich. When I reduced voltage to the 1.8 range, the car ran great but leaned out a bit on the top end. So, I ended up with it set right at 2.0 volts. Any higher than 2.0 volts and severe bogging would set in.

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iTrader: (1)

soo you saying SDTprojecttef probably got a bad SMC ?

SDT Project EF

cleaned off the spark plugs today, checked the dsitributor, wires etcc, added another ground its running ok now, but at 2050 RPM it studders pretty bad. and while racing a new civic si the check engine light came on and the car lost all power but was still on, which was wierd, any ideas ?

Tinker219

I am having similar problems with my gfs car. we went as far down as 50% correction, and the ****** still backfires HUGE amounts of black smoke. Everything is hooked up correctly, soldered, and resisted(injectors) i tested each injector, all came out the same at 2.5-3 ohms. tested each set of injector wires, and each came out to around 12ohms.
we quit driving it because im afraid something fatal has come about. we got the Uberchip, and we are waiting for the proper equipment to install that...have you made any other progress???

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iTrader: (1)

i got te wiring figured outu .. but at 2000 RPM itt bogs, just holding a steady throttle at 2050 it bogs and i have no cclue why, the spark plug wires are good. and while racing the check engine light came on and the car lost ALL power whaat so ever, i turned off the car and restarted it and dit was ok. chccked the code annd it was a map sensor code. also i find this particular SMC a little difficult to work with becuase it seeems like te potentiometers for RPM don't match up with the tick marks.

CivicSoul

the tick marks are very tricky! You have to watch the led flashes the varify your settings. You will soon learn the "sweet spot". As for the jerking at slight throttle under under load at low rpm, Zip is hopefully coming out with a solution. Zip if you read this give me the low down on the beta. ANyway, you can tune most of it out. I can now drive my car so i doesn't do it as much by playing with the clutch. The only time it really, really bothers me is stop and go traffic(jams, parking lots, downtown). I am still trying to figure out exactly why this occurs. Everyone seems to have a different answer. Wether it being DSM injectors, timing issues, or the SMC, it should be fixable, right?

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iTrader: (1)

car runs ok .. but we're gettin a code 3 map snesor and speedo sometghin ... any ideas why ?

boostin

Not sure if you are running a FPR or not, but if you have the bigger injectors, fuel pump and smc, you can actually take out the FPR and use just SMC, that may be the problem because the SMC is adding fuel and the FPR is also adding fuel thus a rich mixture, causing the stuttering.

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iTrader: (1)

nope just straigt SMC+ and 450's

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iTrader: (1)

ttt

digitalhav0c

Whats an smc+?