I think you should try it again, and try it for yourself.

And like I said before:

1 BAR = 14.5 PSI
1 ATM = 14.7 PSI
1 BAR = 0.9869 ATM and 14.5 PSI
1 ATM = 1.013 BAR and 14.7 PSI

1 BAR does not equal 1 ATM

 

how well will this work on a d16z6 with pm6 and 6-10 psi? just curious.

 

...Geeze guys, I thought I was a pretty swift guy until I read this post... I'll leave the pocket protectors alone and stick to smashing things I'm told to...

By the way... my past career in aerospace would lead me to believe that the standard 14.5 psi = 1 bar to be the proper conclusion...





[Modified by Zeus, 7:10 PM 1/7/2003]

 

Irregardless of what the third significant digit is in the definition of 1 bar, this method will work for the following ECUs, P28, P30, P61, and PR3. The limitation on ECUs is basically a function of the software (HRED) that can burn values into ROM, so if anyone has some software that can do other ECUs let me know.

 

You forgot to mention obd1 PR4

 

Filetofit: Check out the PGMFI Forum. Mike R's Ghettodyne for all your PM6/PM7/OBD0 PR4 needs.

I usually just use one of the .xls spreadsheets for the PM6 or the P30, depending on OBD0/OBD1, cut and paste the maps in hex, and checksum. I use the Euro P30 code as it lacks a knock sensor board + code, if you set the VTEC point above the rev limit you can run it on non-VTEC ECUs. You can find VTEC settings in OEM P05/P06 code set above revlimit like this, a lot of the Honda programming was modular in nature.

There are a few quirks in the OBD1 ECUs - rpm points are different between SOHC and DOHC, P05 uses a single wire O2 and CELs if you run 4-wire O2 code on it - it lacks the hardware for the 4-wire heater circuit, etc.

Is anyone else being harassed off the board by tzsir?



[Modified by J. Davis, 8:38 AM 1/8/2003]

 

How am I harassing you I haven't said anything to you for three days now and I come back to find you sent me an IM. Please tell me how I'm harassing you? Are you that self-diluted? Are you sure your 27?

 

not harassed, but I am getting annoyed by some of his replies on the threads.

 

what about a chip to retard the ignition and the SMC/AFC to adjust fuel and trick the ECU. That would provide adjustability to the chip w/o messing w/ the timing too bad.

-Dustin

 

Is there any hope for obd2 at all? I was gonna just go smc but maybe ill go obd1 and do this. Is the fueling at all adjustable? thanks

 

That's what filetofit and myself have been talking about.

As far as OBD2 goes... at $40 per 66P507 chip (that can only be burned once) and the huge PITA installing any complex piece of surface mount equipment w/o a good soldering/desoldering station I really do have to recommend an OBD1 conversion.

 

oh boo.. us obd2 guys always get the shaft

 

what about Pr3?

 

obd2's memory is inside the cpu, and can only be written once. So if you want to chip an obd2, you have to buy a new cpu everytime u chip it.. which is why hondata has you convert to obd1, so u can use external eeprom's (can be erased and re-written).

 

oops should have said it was for a PR3 obd0 . the b16 in a crx

 

You should be able to use the p28 ROM in the P72 ecu as well.

 

I presently have a 98 LS engine and ecu. If I were to do a obd1 conv. what Ecu would be the cheapest for this engine.

 

PR4/PR5 P74/P75
any of those 4 would work

 

I am lost on this subject.

How is it that you are able to transfer the excel file to the ecu through the eprom chip? Do you use a chip burner of some kind?

Also, how do you go about building the excel file in the beginning? Where do you pull the values from?

 

I'll have to disagree with Sakai on this one. Since you have to chip the ECU anyway for your ignition, run a P74/P75 or OBD1 PR4 program on a P06 Civic DX ECU. I've gotten a small pile of them for $15-25 a pop and it's the exact same ECU for all intents and purposes.

You use a chip burner to interface with the chip, yes, but once you have the program you want to modify (via reading a PROM or downloaded from the net) you're dealing with a .bin file. The .bin file is in hexidecimal, and any and all alterations are made with a hex editor. There are several Excel files floating around that help you turn the hex values into human readable data.

The programs like what filetofit mentions (Nico's HRED) are just glorified hex editors... they take the hex and convert it to values and maps you can easily understand and manipulate with a GUI. Hondata and Zdyne do this, as does Mike R's Ghettodyne, and a slew of other programs for other ECUs that can be configured for Honda ones; Winbin, RomEditor (Nissan-based freeware), Tunercat, etc.

Once you have the .bin file modified, you make sure the checksum is correct and burn it to chip. Happiness ensues.

 

So, Joe Schmo who has none of the required software or knowledge, would go about getting his 91 LS ECU burned how? Very interested. Please get back to me.

 

Talk to filetofit if you want a hookup with a burned chip.

Check the PGMFI Forum and Batronixs links if you want to DIY.

 

Here's a couple pics I snapped of the setup. The circuit board w/ LM317, you can see it's real complex sh*t going on. They just hired me at NASA or something.



Stuff it into a little black box, cut a hole in the side to adjust baseline rich/lean, and splice it into the MAP sensor. Just as easily done underdash or inside ECU case. We just stuck it there for ease of tuning.



You can view the whole album here. Atlee has about $1100-1200 in everything... battery relocation, AF/EGT gauges and pillar pod, partial SOHC Greddy kit (what was there had never been bolted to anything), IC, DSM 450cc injectors, etc.

Anybody have an experienced opinion on the poly caulk motor mount fill we did? A lot of people mentioning wanting to or doing it, but I never hear any answers to how it holds up over the long term.




[Modified by J. Davis, 1:36 PM 1/13/2003]

 

So all i need to do is go to filetofit to get my P13 taken care of for dsm 450's with boost?

 

Isn't the p06 a non vtec ecu? You can use this to run a vtec motor if its chipped? If so why does everyone with a hondata go for a p28 instead? thanks