SCRAP METAL?
12-18-2005, 03:49 PM
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SCRAP METAL?
Hello Fellow boost heads-
I come to you fellas cause i trust you guys on this stuff more than the others-
Now i broke this stock block (I/H/E) n/a...but i'm looking to build my block...i have a motor in my car that i'm going to use but i want to know if this one is scrap metal or not-
first this happened-
and this is whats left- is it possible to line bore this and use thicker bearings? or is it just a hunk of metal now?
all the rest of the mains look great, just these two are messed up...
My theory on the broken crank: I was getting fluctuating oil pressures for some time and i think that eventually it resulted in insufficient oiling on the mains wich led the the crank overheating and snapping from stress...it snapped after a 3hr drive on the freeway...
TIA
Rick
I come to you fellas cause i trust you guys on this stuff more than the others-
Now i broke this stock block (I/H/E) n/a...but i'm looking to build my block...i have a motor in my car that i'm going to use but i want to know if this one is scrap metal or not-
first this happened-
and this is whats left- is it possible to line bore this and use thicker bearings? or is it just a hunk of metal now?
all the rest of the mains look great, just these two are messed up...
My theory on the broken crank: I was getting fluctuating oil pressures for some time and i think that eventually it resulted in insufficient oiling on the mains wich led the the crank overheating and snapping from stress...it snapped after a 3hr drive on the freeway...
TIA
Rick
12-18-2005, 05:31 PM
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Re: SCRAP METAL? (planeman01)
WOW.... i have never seen a honda crank snap....... but i can tell you why. could have been a few things but really can only be explaind if you ansew a few questions.
how many miles on the motor?
high mileage motor that means the berrings were worn out and they spun. causing the crank to fluctuate and break.
low mileage - could be that those 2 journals had insufficient clearances on the berring OR insufficient oiling was the cause.
It throws me off because there is no scarring from what i see on the other main berrings or rod berrings,
Post some pics of the of all the main berrings and rod berrings, i would be able to sell you exactly what happened. but im going to go with 2 senarios
1 - highmileage and the berring spun opposite of each other on the main journals
2 - improper oil clearances or insufficient oiling.
as for your other question - you can have the block Line-bored or line-honed.
contact Sean at ERL performance for pricing http://www.erlperformance.com/...s.asp
It may be cheaper to just get a new block but you said you want it built so you would have it extensively worked on anyway....
ERL does great work - i just got my short block back from them.. Great work!!
how many miles on the motor?
high mileage motor that means the berrings were worn out and they spun. causing the crank to fluctuate and break.
low mileage - could be that those 2 journals had insufficient clearances on the berring OR insufficient oiling was the cause.
It throws me off because there is no scarring from what i see on the other main berrings or rod berrings,
Post some pics of the of all the main berrings and rod berrings, i would be able to sell you exactly what happened. but im going to go with 2 senarios
1 - highmileage and the berring spun opposite of each other on the main journals
2 - improper oil clearances or insufficient oiling.
as for your other question - you can have the block Line-bored or line-honed.
contact Sean at ERL performance for pricing http://www.erlperformance.com/...s.asp
It may be cheaper to just get a new block but you said you want it built so you would have it extensively worked on anyway....
ERL does great work - i just got my short block back from them.. Great work!!
12-18-2005, 05:36 PM
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Re: SCRAP METAL? (Importordomestic)
correction... i KNOW that the berrings spun because of the scarring on the block, its looking more and more like oiling on those journals. but if it was an oil pump problem i would think tha tyou would see scarring on the rest of the crank???
12-18-2005, 05:40 PM
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Re: SCRAP METAL? (WHTZ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WHTZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Holy ****!</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted2K »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DAMN, son!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah that was my first reaction... lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted2K »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DAMN, son!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah that was my first reaction... lol
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12-18-2005, 06:26 PM
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Re: SCRAP METAL? (planeman01)
shiiiiiit
<---gets a slight flutcuation in oil pressure on the highway, but its a tiny tiny bit...maybe its just the relief spring opening and closing....
<---gets a slight flutcuation in oil pressure on the highway, but its a tiny tiny bit...maybe its just the relief spring opening and closing....
12-18-2005, 07:52 PM
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Re: (zeroracerh)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeroracerh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its ok that **** will buff out 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't lie to the boy, you know perfectly well he'll need a drop or two of RTV to seat the new mains in.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Don't lie to the boy, you know perfectly well he'll need a drop or two of RTV to seat the new mains in.
12-18-2005, 08:03 PM
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Re: (J. Davis)
I'd have to say the only way to really tell is to take measurements. It'd probably be cheaper for a shop to just touch those two areas, but I wouldn't feel safe unless it was a complete & matched line-hone (or line bore in this extreme case).
It also depends on the block type. If it was a GSR/ITR/CTR, very likely it'd be worth it to fix it. Otherwise, the other d's and b's (besides b16 depending on cost o fix) would probably be junk.
To semi-quote Earl about this type of situation: Honda 4cyls can always be fixed 100%, unless it's something with the crank. Of course he was talking about f20's, but regardless...its a hard 'scar' to remove.
It also depends on the block type. If it was a GSR/ITR/CTR, very likely it'd be worth it to fix it. Otherwise, the other d's and b's (besides b16 depending on cost o fix) would probably be junk.
To semi-quote Earl about this type of situation: Honda 4cyls can always be fixed 100%, unless it's something with the crank. Of course he was talking about f20's, but regardless...its a hard 'scar' to remove.
12-18-2005, 08:07 PM
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Re: (J. Davis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't lie to the boy, you know perfectly well he'll need a drop or two of RTV to seat the new mains in. </TD></TR></TABLE>
damnit u got me
Don't lie to the boy, you know perfectly well he'll need a drop or two of RTV to seat the new mains in.
</TD></TR></TABLE>damnit u got me
12-18-2005, 08:14 PM
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Re: (darkdayz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darkdayz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn I have seen people use stock cranks for 800+hp and didnt snap them in half like that</TD></TR></TABLE> It isn't scrap metal (the crank), you could have some fun with that. Stick the two sides together with some type of adhesive material so it looks as one. Then support the whole like you would a board you would break with a nice judo chop. Assemble the friends, bet them absurd amounts of money you can break the crank with your bare hand and then go spend all your new found money on drinks and women 
12-18-2005, 09:46 PM
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well i'm almost positive its an oiling issue- as for the changes in oil pressueres, they were drastic fluctuations- like 60 to 10 and back. I used to have 35psi at idle and i was lucky to have more than ten...it was a 'low mileage' jdm motor with less than a year of drving on it when this all hapened...The motor was under warrenty so i tried to beat it so i could break it and get another one before the warrenty expired....
This is a B20a motor out of a 91 prelude btw...i'm pretty confident that some way or another the 2 middle journals were not getting the oil they needed over an extended (3hr) freeway drive. when i got into town and started using the clutch and shifting all the time i think that put it over the breaking point with the additional stress with the clutch engaguing and dis-engaging...It had been knocking for weeks before this happened, and as i said, it was under warrenty and i wanted to break it to get my free motor...i think i'll end up scrapping it anyway...these blocks are useless for the most part i think and i've got another one i'm building for boost as we speak...
This is a B20a motor out of a 91 prelude btw...i'm pretty confident that some way or another the 2 middle journals were not getting the oil they needed over an extended (3hr) freeway drive. when i got into town and started using the clutch and shifting all the time i think that put it over the breaking point with the additional stress with the clutch engaguing and dis-engaging...It had been knocking for weeks before this happened, and as i said, it was under warrenty and i wanted to break it to get my free motor...i think i'll end up scrapping it anyway...these blocks are useless for the most part i think and i've got another one i'm building for boost as we speak...
12-18-2005, 10:58 PM
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well it had been making some rod knock noises at specific rpm's and then finally when it broke it was like rrrrrrrrrr-ca-ca-cabang -clunk-clink cuhhhhhhhh- and then i shut it off and rolled into a parking lot to call AAA
12-19-2005, 11:52 AM
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Re: (chitownrida)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chitownrida »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is that the new ss auto crank?
j/k
crazy. never seen that before</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHA
j/k
crazy. never seen that before</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHA
