is it safe to paint your intercooler
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Falqon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And what website is that? You don't paint things with iron ferrite for heat disappation.
http://www.wvi.com/~sr71webmas...n.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>
Huh? Iron ferrite? Interesting, sounds a lil redundant. FeFe2O3? Weird.
And what website is that? You don't paint things with iron ferrite for heat disappation.
http://www.wvi.com/~sr71webmas...n.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>
Huh? Iron ferrite? Interesting, sounds a lil redundant. FeFe2O3? Weird.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeyserSoze »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Huh? Iron ferrite? Interesting, sounds a lil redundant. FeFe2O3? Weird.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hehe i was just thinking that. hmm iron bonded to iron . . . that's going to last a LONG time, especially something exposed to extreme conditions. . . NOT
Huh? Iron ferrite? Interesting, sounds a lil redundant. FeFe2O3? Weird.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hehe i was just thinking that. hmm iron bonded to iron . . . that's going to last a LONG time, especially something exposed to extreme conditions. . . NOT
yea i am gettin mine anodized black, cause i love the sleeper look and i can tell you this black FMIC are clean. cant wait to get mine done.
"The basic principle behind RAM coating is this: the coating contains carbonyl iron ferrite (special paint using this material is known as ‘iron ball’ paint). When a radar wave encounters this coating, it creates a magnetic field within the metallic elements of the coating. The field has alternating polarity and dissipates the energy of a radar signal. A significant portion of radar energy is converted into heat. Such RAM coatings can be manufactured in the form of neoprene-like tiles, with application of various ferric compounds in the synthetic polymer matrix. Early versions of the F-117A employed metal-backed RAM tiles. The tiles were cut to shape and bonded directly to the aircraft’s metal structure. Gaps between the tiles were filled with RAM paint. Some of the gaps between the tiles were sealed temporarily only for the duration of the mission. Current models of the F-117A are using RAM paint applied directly to the aircraft’s body. The paint is applied employing robotics because the solvent used in the process is highly toxic."
Different aircraft are painted black for different reasons. Hell it could be in some cases as simple as they ususually fly at night so painting them black would make sense.
And as for Iron-ferrite, I think it's just ferrite (iron) alpha iron, I thnk you can acually have stuff that is none iron but is still called ferrite (weird ceramics or something) there are many nicknames for it all or so the website says. I myself have long since forgotten the difference between martensite, ferrite, pearlite, austenite, carbide....etc.
http://environmentalchemistry.....html
Different aircraft are painted black for different reasons. Hell it could be in some cases as simple as they ususually fly at night so painting them black would make sense.
And as for Iron-ferrite, I think it's just ferrite (iron) alpha iron, I thnk you can acually have stuff that is none iron but is still called ferrite (weird ceramics or something) there are many nicknames for it all or so the website says. I myself have long since forgotten the difference between martensite, ferrite, pearlite, austenite, carbide....etc.
http://environmentalchemistry.....html
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vt4cPwn35 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Had mine painted to keep it hidden and never had a problem with heat
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it may turn out as a long term thing though, not right out of the gate
</TD></TR></TABLE>it may turn out as a long term thing though, not right out of the gate
even better, boil it down to this: if you had the money to go turbo, you have the money to anodize it, and if you just don't care because spray paint is so damn cheap, do that. you can always buy like 15 and a half spray cans for the price of anodizing it once. go with your cheap or not-so-cheap guts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">even better, boil it down to this: if you had the money to go turbo, you have the money to anodize it, and if you just don't care because spray paint is so damn cheap, do that. you can always buy like 15 and a half spray cans for the price of anodizing it once. go with your cheap or not-so-cheap guts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL
LOL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodreamz0385 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
not my car, but props to who's ever it is</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you.
I just used hi-temp flat black spray paint. I didn't notice any power loss in the hot summer days after painting my intercooler.
The car is no more, I sold it. But miss it everyday.
not my car, but props to who's ever it is</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you.
I just used hi-temp flat black spray paint. I didn't notice any power loss in the hot summer days after painting my intercooler.
The car is no more, I sold it. But miss it everyday.
Miss that hatch..........
Paint is fine, anodizing would be better. The reason.........when you paint the I/C and drive it, it get chips in the paint from rocks, etc. Then you apply another light coat, then another and so on. After a while, you would probably start some blockage of the passageways in the fins. Anodizing is stronger and more chip resistant.
That being said, anodizing is a dipping process that will cover the entire area, and in theory would be less efficent......but that still won't be a problem.
So, do whichever you can afford.
Paint is fine, anodizing would be better. The reason.........when you paint the I/C and drive it, it get chips in the paint from rocks, etc. Then you apply another light coat, then another and so on. After a while, you would probably start some blockage of the passageways in the fins. Anodizing is stronger and more chip resistant.
That being said, anodizing is a dipping process that will cover the entire area, and in theory would be less efficent......but that still won't be a problem.
So, do whichever you can afford.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodreamz0385 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
not my car, but props to who's ever it is</TD></TR></TABLE>
FSR si hatch, 1992- oct 2005
RIP
not my car, but props to who's ever it is</TD></TR></TABLE>
FSR si hatch, 1992- oct 2005
RIP
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quit your bench racing scientist *** ****'s if you dont think affects it in a bad way with regular paint @ all then fine live with that.
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LoL
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LoL
Originally Posted by old man neri
I think everyone aggrees that there will be no noticible difference as long as you don't clog the passages and as long as your coating is very thin. So paint if you want to be lazy with something thin or anodize it if you want a good job
Now for the science arguing which plays really no role in this problem:
Denser materials are not used for heat diffusion. First of all what type of heat diffusion are you talking about? radiation, convection, or conduction. All three always play a role. for radiation generally someone black in colour will radiate heat better. For conduction something with the best heat transfer coefficient will conduct heat the best, not the most dense. (Al is used in a lot fo heat sicks cuase it's quite good and light, copper is actually better but is heavier. Gold and platinum are the best but a bit pricy and very heavy) and for convection well, usually we use air cause we don't have a choice, there you are playing with the airflow to maximize the forced convection.
And of course aluminum is anodized as opposed to painted black on a heat sink in my comp. anodizing is much better then painting alumninum. This was my suggestion from the get go. But painting is simpler to do at home that's why it is also another suggestion.
Here is where it all comes in to play. Let us just neglect radiation cause i doubt it really plays that much of a role. Hot air flows through the intercooler, it makes the fins hot. the hot fins transfer heat/energy to the air. We all know this. A measure of performance could either be how cold you get your outlet air to be or how many watts did the intercooler to be. Seeing as the intake air will always be the same temp the two ways of measure are indeed relative to each other. Now if you coat the intercooler/fins with either paint or anodizing (yes i know they are different process and made up of different material but just go with me on this for a sec before you flame) you now have to have conduction between the aluminum and the paint and then convection from the paint to the air.
Let us assume there is no contract thermal resitance. So now the only hinderance is that the paint/anodization layer is not conduction heat as well as the aluminum. But the whole point of it is that the layer is so so small that there is still almost no termperature changer. Then the it convects to the air. The convection is based on a few things. an "h" factor and the temperature difference. the "h" factor depends on air flow, the material (air in this case). The airflow will not really chance (yes it will slightly change because the fin stapcing all of a sudden decreased by a few thousands and the surface texture will slightly altered but it will not significantly change.
Heat disapaited = "h" X (diff in temp between air and surface of intercooler) X area
now, if "h" doesn't change, neither does the area, and the temp difference is ever so slight then the amount of heat dissapaited (in watts, or horespower, or whatever) won't be significantly affected.
This is compounded by the fact that even if there is a huge change in termperature at your outlet (coated vs not coated) such as half a degree it still won't affect. So in conclusion giving it a light coat of paint or anodizing it will make no real difference, just like the tests show.
you will get better perfomance gain if you race naked and save on wieght.
So to answer your comment, yes i do know what i am talking about.......
Positivly worded questions or comments are welcome (i.e. do swear at me)
If the tips of the fins were the only thing anodized or painted, I think the intercooler should have a great shot at keeping close to the same efficience. This should be enough to give it a black intercooler look but keeping the fin surface pure Alum. If you look at A/C & Heat pump coils that rely on efficiency to meet a seer rating. They have the tips black for 1mm into the fin and the rest bare alum. This gives it a black nice look but keeps the efficiency high.
What do you think about it?
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