anyone have any ideas of what is causing it to be lean

 

what kind of gas are you running? fuel additive? the color seems to be on the red side... or is it just the pics?

 

faulty o2 sensor

 

just changed it...

 

used 91 octane from chevron most of the time and shell sometimes. i put 1 bottle of that blue nos octane booster.

 

dont use octane booster.. **** is junk... just get the highest octane you can find...

i have 93 AND 111 octane here

 

Yea, don't bother with that octane booster. That red color on your plugs is from the additives.

 

its very difficult to read the plugs when you have a additive.

just get rid of that damn blue box and all of your problems will be gone. I have tuned a car that made 30 more hp with uberdata and same boost levels. just a thought.

by the way, don't use chevron gas. I don't know if this is just where i live, but chevron is known to cause pinging in cars (could be caused by the tectron). Its done it in barely stock cars, to modified ones... even with 92. Try changing gas company. it just might help.

I DONT WANT TO HEAR ABOUT GAS BEING THE SAME ****. OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT! WHERE I LIVE, CHEVRON HAS ITS OWN PLANT. CHEVRON GAS, IS CHEVRON GAS. YOU CANNOT GET CHEVRON GAS IN ANY OTHER STATIONS WHAT SO EVER. just covering my *** since some of you like to be picky and start fights.

 

i just spoke to a persoon from the greddy tech dept and he told me:

1.The greddy kit wasnt made for 2001 gsrs (i knew that)
2. The o2 sensor is probably sensing the condition too rich so it is adjusting the car to run lean.
3. I should buy a o2 sensor bypass ($20 from greddy) and tune it.

 

ok i guess im just going to tune it. any one else have any experience with check engine codes p0170 & p0171?

 

i bought a new walbro 255 fuel pump. 2 days without a check engine code (the longest record ever in my car).

sorta ran it hard the 2nd night, after the cool down period the check engine went on and the same codes still showed up....

 

is possible that occasional lean conditions ( car running too hot) will trigger codes?

 

blue box=teh sukc

dont use it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whteteg8901 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i bought a new walbro 255 fuel pump. 2 days without a check engine code (the longest record ever in my car).

sorta ran it hard the 2nd night, after the cool down period the check engine went on and the same codes still showed up....

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude, look at you. You are just busting out the six shooter here and tossing parts at this car as fast as you can without having a CLUE about if they will resolve the problem or what the problem is even. STOP. I hate impatient people! I love all the people who told you the fuel pump would solve the problem too. They are also lost and in the dark..

Now, think about what Greddy told you.

1). The kit isn't made for a 2001 GSR - Thats worthless, means nothing. Ignore it.
2). The O2 is sensing the lean condition and trying to correct it. - Maybe
3). Buy the O2 bypass and tune - Tune maybe, bypass the O2? Not the right way to fix

Now stop and think about this. The code indicates that the car is VERY lean. How do I know? Well, it won't toss that code UNLESS the computer is not able to adjust for the condition based off O2 readings. Now you already changed the O2 sensor, so its safe to say we should have a good working O2. I highly doubt your problem has anything to do with fuel supply in terms of fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator. Did you install the injectors with the kit? I assume you did since you mentioned needing to solder the injector clips. Have you soldered these clips yet? With the Greddy kit, it is VERY VERY important to solder all those connections, including those at the blue box. Do you have ALL the connections soldered? If not, you need to go solder up everything. Now, I also cannot stress this enough to you, you need to ditch the blue box. People have been saying it over and over but you just say "yeah I know" and continue to chase a problem that is already clearly identified. I used to have one of these kits with that blue box. Anytime I had any problem, it always came down to something with the blue box. Its a pain in the ***. Why? Its a bandaid to make something "work" thats not supposed to. Do things the right way, the first time, and save yourself money in the end. How much boost are you running anyways?

 

7.8 lbs of boost. yes i am aware that i am chasing down problems somwhat blindly, but i was hoping the blue box wasnt the problem, since i planned for it to be temporary until i had enough to buy hondata + the tune.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whteteg8901 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">7.8 lbs of boost. yes i am aware that i am chasing down problems somwhat blindly, but i was hoping the blue box wasnt the problem, since i planned for it to be temporary until i had enough to buy hondata + the tune. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Try lowering the boost back down to around 5lbs, see what happens. You are trying to play a game you did not properly prepare for. Thus you are having issues. Running this lean WILL kill something... so its time to ask yourself... can you really afford NOT to ditch the blue box? If you dont have the money, dont play the game. Perhaps it would make more sense to remove the kit for the time being?

 

took me awhile to save up for the kit, so the whole time i researched. Didnt really think i was going to run into trouble, since the blue box was sposed to make the car run rich and is pretuned, but i guess used kits arent always the best.

Im putting on a wideband to see the exact a/f ratio. Hopefully the system just detected a slight lean condition when it was running hot, since any slight lean will trigger a code right? &lt;-----(question im hoping to get answered)

Just wanted to have a piece of mind and some sort of varification from more experienced pple for this condition

Thank you all for the advice pple and YES i will get a hondata sheesh . I just want to tune the car once afer i get everything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whteteg8901 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">took me awhile to save up for the kit, so the whole time i researched. Didnt really think i was going to run into trouble, since the blue box was sposed to make the car run rich and is pretuned, but i guess used kits arent always the best.

Im putting on a wideband to see the exact a/f ratio. Hopefully the system just detected a slight lean condition when it was running hot, since any slight lean will trigger a code right? &lt;-----(question im hoping to get answered)

Just wanted to have a piece of mind and some sort of varification from more experienced pple for this condition

Thank you all for the advice pple and YES i will get a hondata sheesh . I just want to tune the car once afer i get everything.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

In order to see that code, the car has to be so lean that the long term fuel adustments cannot compensate. If I am not mistaken, it can correct +/- 20%, so no... its not from being "barely" lean...

I was one of the first people to buy the 18g kits when they first came out in the US. I worked with Kenji (I believe was his name) in attempt of helping them to solve the blue box problems. They even sent me a new one when they ran out of ideas. There is a potentiometer in there you can adjust to correct the mixture... This is what ultimately cured my lean code... since the blue box is altering the map signal, this explains your problem. I'm not going to explain how to make the adjustment as it can hose things if done incorrectly. I've told you how to fix the problem and so have others... ultimately its your car and YOUR choice.

 

those were the answers i was hoping to get for awhile.

Ill keep the updates going. No turning back to N/A for now tho.

thanks hybrid

 

i don't want to sound annoying because you've already got it by now that the blue box sucks.

But when i had the kit on my 00 Si i insisted that i make the blue box work not because i didn't have money to spend on EM but because i wanted to seriously keep the car CARB legal since i live in L.A. After a few weeks of engine codes and changing out random stuff like o2 sensor, and checking all the wiring, and wasted time troubleshooting all the engine codes, i gave up and bought power fc.

I threw all kinds of codes, like misfires, o2, and some other stuff that i don't remember. I even spent money on a obdII scanner ($80) so i could reset it all the time without disconnecting the battery. In the end, i couldn't fix the problem so i ditched it.

You know, it would always throw a code when i let it idle for too long too...it was weird. But regardless it always came on, it was just a matter of time.

But my car got stolen not long after i tuned it so i didnt' even get to enjoy it. It sucks how its suppose to work but it doesn't. anyways good luck.

-Ray

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRay6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I even spent money on a obdII scanner ($80) so i could reset it all the time without disconnecting the battery. </TD></TR></TABLE>

1). Unplug the ECU for 10 seconds

or

2). Remove the F/I fuse in the underhood fuse box for 10 seconds

No need to spend money on something to reset the codes when it can easily be done for free.

 

Yea now i know. Thanks though. At the time i didn't like messing with the ecu that much (ie yanking on the wires etc) plus I threw multiple codes so it was easier to read the obdII scanner than sit there and count how many times the check engine light flashes; its hard to read flashes when you have 3/4 codes and the codes loop conintuously

Your right though i totally regret buying it, those are hella expensive and it got stolen with my car too

 

finally got it dynoed and the a/f ratio is what its supposed to be. It runs rich from 4500-5500 all the way to redline. It runs so rich that it goes off the charts and makes the o2 sensor cold. Check engine light still goes on only after hard pulls, but shifting below 4k wont trigger it for days.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whteteg8901 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">finally got it dynoed and the a/f ratio is what its supposed to be. It runs rich from 4500-5500 all the way to redline. It runs so rich that it goes off the charts and makes the o2 sensor cold. Check engine light still goes on only after hard pulls, but shifting below 4k wont trigger it for days.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The fuel pump is overwhelming the regulator. Even with an AEM regulator on my car using the largest return orfice, the walbro supplied WAY to damn much fuel for the regulator. Its just overkill, but people always think they need them for "basic" setups. The blue box also isn't much help. My car was "off the chart" rich also from 4k up. 99 Si, bone stock cept the Greddy kit, non intercooled, not tuned (obviously) on 5psi did 197whp and 146tq. Would have been a lot better if we could have pulled some fuel.

 

oh yeh i forgot to add, i replaced the problematic blue box with a different one, it ran rich on wideband. The 1st one was deffective, making the car actually lean...