running high boost on d16: question
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Honda-Tech Member
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From: here n there n everywhere
I got a d16y8, and I want to run lets say 15psi through it on a pretty regular basis. What would I need to do to do this? Eagle rods and SRP Pistons with a low comp, dsm injectors, high flow fuel pump, vortech fmu/missing link, and vafc? Or is there more I would need, oh btw this is intercooled.
Thanks
Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Del_Slowest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can't do this with the VAFC, your gonna need uberdata or hondata or some other standalone/ piggy back system.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's right, save and buy a real fuel management system. What kind of turbo are you planning on running??
He's right, save and buy a real fuel management system. What kind of turbo are you planning on running??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was gonna run a t3/t4 if i get hondadata do i still need a vortech fmu? </TD></TR></TABLE>
No just larger than stock injectors and a good tuner. Read all about hondata HERE
No just larger than stock injectors and a good tuner. Read all about hondata HERE
#1 Priority: GOOD fuel management! Hondata, AEM, Uberdata, whatever...something besides an afc or the hack.
Other than that: Pistons, rods and head studs. Anything over 300 WHP sleeve it.
Other than that: Pistons, rods and head studs. Anything over 300 WHP sleeve it.
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He doesnt need sleeves if he has a good tuner. A d series sleeve will hold up just as good as a b series sleeve as long as its tuned right. I have seen numerous 300-400 whp d series on stock sleeves on this board alone.
Thread Starter
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From: here n there n everywhere
ok so with just hondadata (s200wboost) larger injectors, pistons, rods and ARP headstuds i can run 15psi? could i go higher? WHat traget compression am I goin for when buying pistons/rods? I heard that low comp is good for turbo setups but i was planning on getting pistons/hondata/body repair/carbon hood/injectors/head studs in one buy and the actual turbo kit in the next (deal i worked with my dad). Anyway so is it going to suck *** for like 4 months before i get my turbo cause i got these low comp pistons in? Or can it be tuned to work well with the low comp cause of hondata?
Thanks again
Thanks again
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From: Destroying turbo ITR motors in Minneapolis, MN, U.S.A.
Why don't you bolt on the turbo kitfirst, before you worry about running 15 psi.
Going from 100whp to 250whp is going to be too big of a jump for you, start gradually. I'm running 7 psi on a greddy turbo kit on my d16y8. I am still running a completely stock engine, 9.6:1 stock compression. it kicks ***! The higher compression is awesome, because you get better throttle response. while that may mean less traction in the low end, it makes for a quick daily driver. Stop dreaming, start small and upgrade.
Going from 100whp to 250whp is going to be too big of a jump for you, start gradually. I'm running 7 psi on a greddy turbo kit on my d16y8. I am still running a completely stock engine, 9.6:1 stock compression. it kicks ***! The higher compression is awesome, because you get better throttle response. while that may mean less traction in the low end, it makes for a quick daily driver. Stop dreaming, start small and upgrade.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so with just hondadata (s200wboost) larger injectors, pistons, rods and ARP headstuds i can run 15psi? could i go higher? WHat traget compression am I goin for when buying pistons/rods? I heard that low comp is good for turbo setups but i was planning on getting pistons/hondata/body repair/carbon hood/injectors/head studs in one buy and the actual turbo kit in the next (deal i worked with my dad). Anyway so is it going to suck *** for like 4 months before i get my turbo cause i got these low comp pistons in? Or can it be tuned to work well with the low comp cause of hondata?
Thanks again</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, S200 with boost. Do you have a tuner local to you? You could easily run 15psi on your above setup as long as the Hondata is tuned properly. Personally I would go with 9.5to1 pistons.
Screw the stupid Riced Out CF hood and use this money for tuning.
WIth 9.5 to 1, it won't suck as since stock is 9.2 (Z6) and 9.6 (Y8).
Thanks again</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, S200 with boost. Do you have a tuner local to you? You could easily run 15psi on your above setup as long as the Hondata is tuned properly. Personally I would go with 9.5to1 pistons.
Screw the stupid Riced Out CF hood and use this money for tuning.
WIth 9.5 to 1, it won't suck as since stock is 9.2 (Z6) and 9.6 (Y8).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why don't you bolt on the turbo kitfirst, before you worry about running 15 psi.
Going from 100whp to 250whp is going to be too big of a jump for you, start gradually</TD></TR></TABLE>
I like this approach. It lets you get tired of the stock boost, and then when you got the bug to upgrade, you have a path to follow.
-PHiZ
Going from 100whp to 250whp is going to be too big of a jump for you, start gradually</TD></TR></TABLE>
I like this approach. It lets you get tired of the stock boost, and then when you got the bug to upgrade, you have a path to follow.
-PHiZ
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From: Pembroke Pines, Florida, United States
yah phiz and boostin coupe are right. start with that... learn a lil more about turbo hondas and their qwerks then u can step up. i ran mine as high as 10psi on the hondata (for 2 days before i sold it lol). and that was like "holy crap this is fast" i'm guessing that was somewhere about 210whp or so. i usually ran it on the street @ 8psi where i made 194whp/164tq. that 2psi jump was awesome. start off with something simple. learn how the car works with the turbo setup then u can step up. easier way imo.
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wow thanks for all the replies! This is really helpin me out. I know a good deal about turbos, especially in their respect to honda engines, I know about things needs for larger boost applications, I mean I've been dreaming of the sound of a spooling turbo for almost ayear now, and thanks to this little insurance donation i am pretty damn close to making it a reality. Not that im against oem hoods, but my hood is all shitted up from people sittin on it and I thought if im gonna pay 200+ for an OEM hood, shipped why not pay 300 for a carbon hood shipped? ANyway back to boost. So like i said im def gettin hondadata, you have made it very clear im gonna need this before going big. Why get the stuff first and the turbo second? The deal I worked with my dad gives me cash only for a turbo setup, which is good becuase he didnt put any restrictions on price/brand etc. Deal is i get better than a 3.6 *** i get whatever kit i want
. That said I will be working my *** off (I got to college at RIT). Anyway so that mean I still got this 2k for stuff to make my simple turbo setup a killer turbo setup. SO that was my thinking in the pistons/hondadata then turbo.
Now though I think I will use all the insurance cash for a FMIC hondata turbo setup, and just use my deal with dad for the pistons, maybe an IM and more tuning. Question is with just a tuned FMIC setup on handadata what is the highest SAFE psi to run for racing (which may occur often). Thanks, sorry for the long-windedness
-Dan
. That said I will be working my *** off (I got to college at RIT). Anyway so that mean I still got this 2k for stuff to make my simple turbo setup a killer turbo setup. SO that was my thinking in the pistons/hondadata then turbo.Now though I think I will use all the insurance cash for a FMIC hondata turbo setup, and just use my deal with dad for the pistons, maybe an IM and more tuning. Question is with just a tuned FMIC setup on handadata what is the highest SAFE psi to run for racing (which may occur often). Thanks, sorry for the long-windedness
-Dan
don't intercoolers drop the psi about 2-3 psi? 7psi is good for a stock motor and then add on the 2-3 and that gives you 9-10psi for a bone stock motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Del_Slowest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't intercoolers drop the psi about 2-3 psi? 7psi is good for a stock motor and then add on the 2-3 and that gives you 9-10psi for a bone stock motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
SuckaWhat?
SuckaWhat?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Del_Slowest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't intercoolers drop the psi about 2-3 psi? 7psi is good for a stock motor and then add on the 2-3 and that gives you 9-10psi for a bone stock motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Heheh, who let in the mathemagician?
Anyhow, use uberdata or hondata with a set of rods and pistons (9.x compression) for 15 psi. But I'd think about starting with a turbo setup in the 8-10 psi range and then do the internals later. Gives you some time to learn how to drive.
Heheh, who let in the mathemagician?
Anyhow, use uberdata or hondata with a set of rods and pistons (9.x compression) for 15 psi. But I'd think about starting with a turbo setup in the 8-10 psi range and then do the internals later. Gives you some time to learn how to drive.
What kind of gas are you going to be running? Pump (93) or something at a track? If you're talking about racing at a track, get it tuned for that whatever octane gas they have at the track as well. That's what I'm doing for my turbo D16Y8 project as well. Oh yeah, bring your car to school in the spring so we can run at the drag strip nearby, I go to RIT as well.
i didnt read all the replys, but i figured i'd throw in my 2cents...
Since you are building the block...i suggest you buy all the parts needed for the engine first...for example, i got my block sleeved, forged pistons/rods, clutch, flywheel, ARP head studs, and bearings, also my gasket set and everything else needed to get the ACTUAL ENGINE in the car and running...first...
Get your engine w/out the turbo kit in the car, running, and have it as a daily driver...this is your break in period for the engine/clutch...
While your engine is being broken in, buy all the parts for your turbo kit...by the time you have all that purchased you can slap the rest on at once, and you'll be set....
At least thats waht im doing.
Since you are building the block...i suggest you buy all the parts needed for the engine first...for example, i got my block sleeved, forged pistons/rods, clutch, flywheel, ARP head studs, and bearings, also my gasket set and everything else needed to get the ACTUAL ENGINE in the car and running...first...
Get your engine w/out the turbo kit in the car, running, and have it as a daily driver...this is your break in period for the engine/clutch...
While your engine is being broken in, buy all the parts for your turbo kit...by the time you have all that purchased you can slap the rest on at once, and you'll be set....
At least thats waht im doing.


