Rob_ek4

OK this is a "Late to the party" build thread as I've asked most of my questions in the huuuuuuuuuge JRSC thread on here!


However I have been threatened that my help will stop unless I start a build thread so here we go!!

Firstly I'd like to give a huge thanks to;

MRGRIM
Black R
CX-Adam

Who have been so helpful so far in providing help, advice, drawings and pics etc.



Right so onto the build................

Here is my 2000 EK4





I, for whatever reason it still doesn't make sense sometimes, decided I wanted to be different!! I wanted boost but not Turbo!!

I've had Soarers or as you guys know them Lexus SC's for the last 8 years! I started with a 2.5 TT (I don't think you guys got them) Then went onto a V8/ SC400 and that had a charger on it, and it was gooooooooooood.

So I decided I wanted to put one on the Civic......................

Rob_ek4

So I found and got a JRSC kit over here..................

Rob_ek4

It was pointed out to me I was missing a few brackets so I got these fabricated, most of them are ugly and nothing special but one of my mates set one of his engineers a challenge with a crap bit of old stainless and a drawing given to me on here and set him off........................

An hour later with just hand tools and a plasma cutter (No mills or CNC allowed), he came back with this...........

Rob_ek4

After annoying MRGRIM I got the list of bits I needed to support the build......

S300
Adjustable FPR
RC650's
Wideband

Here's a quick pic of my delivery from the guys over here at HTune.co.uk

Rob_ek4

All was going well until I started to run into a few problems.....................

First was this one....



The charger just kept fouling the rubber pipes for the oil cooler and the metal pipes........

A quick beg for help on here solved the answer I needed to remove the oil filter and rotate the oil cooler through 90 deg so the pipes sat above and below the sensor!

I also had a little incident whilst bending the PCV hose to 15 deg below horiz. The main coolant line behind the block seems to be locked in place by 2 small tabs! Well the bottom one is missing now as it's snapped!!

Lets hope it doesn't leak water!!

Rob_ek4

I have also helped my install somewhat as I have decided to ditch the AC and PS!

I'm in the UK and we get maybe 2 weeks of hot weather! And I'm not a girl so don't need power steering!

Saves weight and clears space for the install!!

CX-Adam

Thanks Rob!

Sub'd for updates!

Rob_ek4

As of right now I am getting ready to pull the engine out of the car!!!

Not because the build calls for it but because I want to do some Wire tucking and tidy the bay up while I'm doing this!

I got fed up of having to ask around for tools so when it came to an engine hoist I decided to bite the bullet and just buy one, I can then ask for "Donations" when my mates borrow it, it'll pay for itself in a no time I'm sure.

Rob_ek4

Dude the detail for that bracket was perfect! I just gave it to my friend, he gave it to his engineer and they produced the item I pictured!

Rob_ek4

While she's up on axle stands I'm going to throw these on to! Totally FI related as if you go faster you wanna stop faster to!!



GSR or over here MB6 1" Master Cylinder with MG/ Rover (I don't think you got them) 282/ 262 discs and calipers.

Rob_ek4

OK questions for the masses................................

1) My EK4 has the OEM IAT on the intake pipe, is this the best place for it? Or should I install an ITR IAT on the JRSC manifold? Can this be done? Is it just a re-wire job??


2) My kit did not come with the MAP sensor adaptor BUT did come with an AEM 3.5 bar installed. Should I just use the AEM?

CX-Adam

1) The installation instructions tell you to move the IAT sensor to the JRSC Manifold. Compressing air creates heat so the intake air will be a lot cooler in the pipe than it will be in the manifold. A lot. I don't think it matters what sensor you use as long as the screw holes line up with the JRSC manifold's.

2) Move the MAP sensor to the manifold. There's no adapter required. See GOOCH's build for pictures. You can leave an unused MAP sensor on the throttle body to block off the hole or create a block plate. I had the same questions and google searched pictures. You don't need the 3.5 BAR sensor. You're not going to see pressures in excess of what the OEM sensor can read unless you're running a ported blower with a CRV crank pulley, MVM Stepper pulley, and a smaller nose pulley. Even then, I'm not sure if you'd need it. Hopefully someone else will add their $0.02.

Rob_ek4

Thanks........

So I just grab an IAT sensor off a b series that has it on the manifold and fit that........Got it!

Map sensor ok I'll go look at GOOCH's thread....

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

SUBSCRIBED / enlisted to help

the IAT sensor you need is from a teg manifold

and just to point out now i see pics thats a ENDYN ported charger
your in for a world of funn

Rob_ek4

Grimm thanks

Rob_ek4

Good fun or bad????

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

smile crampt face fun
oh and it will squeal louder than a stock m62

Rob_ek4

Awesome

I've tracked down a teg IAT sensor and another oem map sensor!

What's the best wire to get a feed to the new map sensor! I don't have an adaptor or anything. Will a vac hose pushed onto it work?

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

its just a vac hose pushed on to the manifold and use a cable tie to hold it on the MAP nipple

you might want to think about porting the S-Tube and a larger TB to match the cfm of the charger now we know its ported

I would also sugest put a full list of what you have and your parts list on the first post
so we all have a better idea as to what you do n dont have

as i did a small list of my parts on my build thread

then we can help you with any mods or parts you might need advise on

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

pics of both ends of the s tube pls

and also the inlet for the charger

Rob_ek4

Ok the S tube is gonna be trick as its mounted to the charger now all hondabonded on.

I know it's Endyn ported but the start of the S tube is 60mm same as the GSR TB you recommended

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

ok kewl well you have room for growth later if you want to
68mm TB and ported s tube

Rob_ek4

Well the motor should be out and back in this weekend!!

I have an IAT sensor now and a map sensor so I'm back to "Good to go" Again!!

I'm becoming increasingly worried by all that I read regarding overheating......... Is it that bad of an issue? Do I want to hunt down a water meth kit??

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

your still not making it any easyer to answer your questions

need a spec / part list
engine b16?
compression ratio?
redline rpm?
crank pulley size?
ALT pulley .. stock
manifold stock or ported?
charger ..Endyn ported
your altitude in feet ( search you address on goolge for it)
and also your nominal temp out side

with regard to heat issue
supply above and those answers takes seconds
along with other results like

WHp + crank Hp
boost psi
Altitude effect on Hp
out side temp Vs blower Inlet temp

Rob_ek4

Grimm........

Engine b16;
Tri Y manifold 2.5" collector
Mugen Twin Loop
ITR exhaust cam, GSR intake cam
Short ram intake with V-stack
A/C & PS removed

compression ratio, stock 10.2.1

redline rpm, 9k for now

crank pulley size, stock

ALT pulley .. stock twin that comes with JRSC kit

manifold stock

charger, Endyn ported

Altitude is about 100' max! My normal temp is 73f in summer.


Hope that helps