Rich777's B16 engine build
I have two questions,
Does anyone agree that Avid racing 75a engine will work well for my setup ? or should i go stiffer ? I personally think they'll work fine.
Does anyone know how much ARP main studs normally send the main journal tunnels out of round (avarage) ? Are we talking a few ten thou or a few thou ? I think it will only be a few tenths so only a light line hone will be needed.
Thank you
Does anyone agree that Avid racing 75a engine will work well for my setup ? or should i go stiffer ? I personally think they'll work fine.
Does anyone know how much ARP main studs normally send the main journal tunnels out of round (avarage) ? Are we talking a few ten thou or a few thou ? I think it will only be a few tenths so only a light line hone will be needed.
Thank you
Last edited by rich7777; Nov 24, 2011 at 12:13 PM.
I have two questions,
Does anyone agree that Avid racing 75a engine will work well for my setup ? or should i go stiffer ? I personally think they'll work fine.
Does anyone know how much ARP main studs normally send the main journal tunnels out of round (avarage) ? Are we talking a few ten thou or a few thou ? I think it will only be a few tenths so only a light line hone will be needed.
Thank you
Does anyone agree that Avid racing 75a engine will work well for my setup ? or should i go stiffer ? I personally think they'll work fine.
Does anyone know how much ARP main studs normally send the main journal tunnels out of round (avarage) ? Are we talking a few ten thou or a few thou ? I think it will only be a few tenths so only a light line hone will be needed.
Thank you
I would find hardened rubber inserts and forget the mounts entirely. Unless yours are severely worn over the years, (which I doubt since my car is 14 years old and still don't need replacing for the racing you and I do) there's no need for them, and it will just cause an uncomfortable ride. Just get an engine dampened from J's if you're worried about engine "flex".
I would find hardened rubber inserts and forget the mounts entirely. Unless yours are severely worn over the years, (which I doubt since my car is 14 years old and still don't need replacing for the racing you and I do) there's no need for them, and it will just cause an uncomfortable ride. Just get an engine dampened from J's if you're worried about engine "flex".
Mac, Did you use oversized main bearings in "Project She" ? or were they just standard size ? If they were just standard size then how did the clearances come out after the line hone in comparison to before with the stock main bolts ?
We used standard sized OEM bearings with platiguage. Andy himself then got the correct color bearings for the mains. We put it together as though we ran a Honda Dealership.. OEM everything.
i think alot of people use ACL bearing and such...HOwever OEM is definatly the way to go...Glad to see things are coming together... and definatly jealous to hear you guys have 99 V-power...i only use shell V-Power but we only have 93 here...
I'm a OEM all the way when it comes to bearings to. I'm not really a fan of aftermarket bearings in a Honda. He,he,he about the vpower, it is damn expensive though, i think its like £1.38 per litre at the moment (thats slightly over 2$). We get our pants pulled down ever time we hit the pump lol, and the worst thing is 2/3 of it is tax. We actually buy our fuel in at the cheapest rate in Europe to, and of course pay the most... It doesn't make sense to me... Specially as the government wants buisnesses to grow, but its totally crippling them, its our economies blood at the end of the day.
I actually replaced my mounts 3 years ago with the one's i have now which are either Mugen or OEM (not sure as seller said they were Mugen but there was nothing to determine whether or not they was). I think i know a company that is local to me what can do that so i'll get in contact with them.
Ok i won't, i had the idea that i needed stiffer mounts for my power range
Last edited by rich7777; Dec 2, 2011 at 07:06 AM.
Small update,
I have recieved the rest of the parts i needed from Real Street Performance. Now i just need to pay off some money towards my holiday/vacation to California next year and i can start saving for the machine work
. I'd imagine i'd be getting the machine work done late January/early February.
BIG THANK YOU TO TREVOR @ REAL STREET PERFORMANCE ! ! ! Good prices, fast shipping & a all around excellent service everytime
Shame you never packed any of that Florida sunshine in the box though, its freeeeeeeezing over here (j/k)
A few quick pictures (sorry about the poor quality, this new Nokia i have is crap),

I have recieved the rest of the parts i needed from Real Street Performance. Now i just need to pay off some money towards my holiday/vacation to California next year and i can start saving for the machine work
. I'd imagine i'd be getting the machine work done late January/early February. BIG THANK YOU TO TREVOR @ REAL STREET PERFORMANCE ! ! ! Good prices, fast shipping & a all around excellent service everytime
Shame you never packed any of that Florida sunshine in the box though, its freeeeeeeezing over here (j/k)A few quick pictures (sorry about the poor quality, this new Nokia i have is crap),

What would you machine and why ?
Basically the small end of the rod won't fit into the piston so i'm going to have to machine one of them. At the moment its the rod, down to the fact that i feel it could weaken the structure of the piston. Any thoughts ? ? ?
Basically the small end of the rod won't fit into the piston so i'm going to have to machine one of them. At the moment its the rod, down to the fact that i feel it could weaken the structure of the piston. Any thoughts ? ? ?
call dan at hutchins performance machine shop, well dan should be the only one there but at any rate i've asked him this question before and he told me you did the rod but i can't swear to it
(503) 246-7144
should be a 30 second question i'm sure he'll fire off to you the correct answer
if you do the rod i would make sure and take equal amounts from each side
he's located here in oregon which is PST and open roughly 9am to 5pm
(503) 246-7144
should be a 30 second question i'm sure he'll fire off to you the correct answer
if you do the rod i would make sure and take equal amounts from each side
he's located here in oregon which is PST and open roughly 9am to 5pm
call dan at hutchins performance machine shop, well dan should be the only one there but at any rate i've asked him this question before and he told me you did the rod but i can't swear to it
(503) 246-7144
should be a 30 second question i'm sure he'll fire off to you the correct answer
if you do the rod i would make sure and take equal amounts from each side
he's located here in oregon which is PST and open roughly 9am to 5pm
(503) 246-7144
should be a 30 second question i'm sure he'll fire off to you the correct answer
if you do the rod i would make sure and take equal amounts from each side
he's located here in oregon which is PST and open roughly 9am to 5pm



