this will NOT turn into a "sleeved vs block guard" thread. i am fully aware sleeved engines are much more stout. this is why my track car has a benson block.

yes, i spent a few hours searching and the 99% (lol) of my results were just people re-iterating en masse that they are stupid with no real experience with it.

anyone have issue with block guarded motors if the guard was installed properly? (fit in nice and snug and then rehoned or taken .25 or .5mm overbore)

i came across a good deal on a gsr block with a block guard. the guard was installed and then the motor was taken to 81.5mm afterward. do future problems with out of round cylinders arise after this or does the bore/hone clear up the out of round and it doesnt reoccur after heat cycles. just checking on this, im in the process of putting together a new motor for my daily driver, with the power kept low somewhere in the 200's hp range

 

ive always thought it was better without one. thats my opinion.

 

a lot depends on who's block guard it is and whether the material used will expand/contract with the sleeves. For dd-in with sub 300hp numbers I bet you'd be fine... just keep your coolant temp in check and copper spray your headgasket when you install it

 

If its properly nstalled the reliability of the sleeves is NO greater than without one, improperly installed or just poorly made unit decreases reliability from abnormal stress points on the sleeves. In a nut shell a waste of money. 500 is reliable on stock sleeves with a good tuner with just pistons and rods

 

You should be fine as long as it was a name brand block guard and was properly installed by a machine shop. Most problems occur when people try and run a lot of boost with them on motor that should have been sleeved.

 

Just save your money... I have heard storys of it creating a hot spot on cylinders and poor flow to the head.. Stock sleeves are more then strong enuff

 

It creates hot spots in the most important area where the most cooling is needed to prevent detonation

 

The open deck design is engineered the way it is, for a specific reason, the block guard alters the original cooling design, thus creating hot spots like everyone is talking about, which makes areas on the sleeve where it is prone to crack. The safest way to do something similar to this without compromising cooling is to post the block. Quite frankly though, there's no way to tell if the block guard is helping, or hurting, until you explode. Then it goes either way in opinion.

 

I am saving money. This block is cheaper than a block without the block guard. I know the reliability wont be more. I just don't want it to be much less.

The hot coolant thing I do understand about open vs closed deck, but then how come places like aebs make closed deck sleeves...again, this engine will be running a very low power output, its not some 500hp motor. It will have new oem pistons because that's what I have in the basement. So how many people are crackin sleeves and such with properly installed blockguards

 

I would look into CNCwerx CSS. That is the best option if sleeving is not in your budget and would like something to help sleep at night.

 

Agreed., If any block guard is going to make a difference the CSS one is where you want to go. This is the only one in my opinion that you are going to benefit from. These are machined into the outer coolant jacket, as well as around the outer sleeve(if i remember correctly). There is not going to be a better block guard or better installed one then this.

Talk to Trick Eng. They do quality work.

 

The block already has the blockguard in it. I am not going to sleeve it. Im looking to see how many people are running blocks what have had blockguards installed that haven't blown up

 

A reply to an email I sent to Larry Widmer @ Endyn back in 04...

If you use a blockguard, every cylinder must be honed using a ridgid-style hone. The block must be at operating temperature and there has to be a torque plate used to simulate a cylinder head. Best advice is to use lower boost and no blockguard.

Hth some.

Blaze

 

Sleeves, are....exactly that, newly designed sleeves, so they are designed to run with the closed deck in place. However your OEM sleeves are designed around an open deck concept, so obstructing coolant flow around them will in fact create hot spots no matter what you do. Like i said you can achieve the same effect with block posting.

 

ok, truth is that im not boosting this engine. its a 12.5:1 all motor should be making 200-225whp. i posted it in this forum for a few reasons, one of which is that searching block guards gave more results in this forum than the all motor.

this particular block was on boost and had some ptw contact so it was taken over to 81.5 with the blockguard already in there. id likey take it over to 82mm to ensure 100% everything is true and i can achieve my desired ptw.

im just worried that with the block guard still there providing some force against the cyl walls it would oblong or distort the cylinders again after getting some heat and use. has anyone found that to be the case, that as long as its in there it constantly works to oval the cyl bore?

 

X2

 

don't bother with blockguard... block posting would do more than those blockguard.

 

yeah they are no good man. my buddy had some funky wear tower the top of the cylnder after pulling it apart after it blew up going down the track, idk if it was from heat and improper cooling toward the top due to using the block guard or what. the block is gonna flex no matter what I would rather have a little flex than to force the cylnders to stay in the one spot you would think that this would put even more more stress on the rest of the block? idk im not a rocket therapist! haha jk