teg2snbtrbd

I recently put the Drag III on my 98 Integra GS(has the LS motor). The shop I ordered it thru installed the kit on the car. They also installed a Missing link, MSD-BTM6, Defi gauges, AFC, AEM Fuel Rail, and Holley 255 fuel pump. They didn't install the inline pump because they said the Holley would pump enough and is supporting a Accord with 500+hp. I have heard that I still need the inline to push the fuel. If that is the case, why would my check engine light come on for being too rich. The car was put on the Dyno and pulled only 150 horses. The dyno showed my fuel curve was just fine. We leaned it out enough to keep the check engine line from coming on for being too rich. I called the shop about the dyno results. They stated that the car has a 80 to 100 hp parasitic loss due to being an automatic. I have called a few places around here and they say that is not the case. I might loose 25 to 35 horses. I was wondering if you all might have some opinions on this and could help me out. All your thoughts would be appreciated.

rtype11

your car could be reading rich because of cam overlap which has nothing to do with complete combustion, just fresh mixture leaving thru Ex valve because it shut to late, see if you can dial out the overlap with camgears. your car makes no power and I would complain, parasitic loss should be substantial thru the slushbox, 40 -50 HP losses can be expected, or maybe your tq converter cant stall that kind of power, call level 10 and ask ????, how many PSI did you run???? if the exhaust gas still reads rich it is not being lit off, run 9PSI with the BTM set at zero retard and see if you make more power, you should be able to run full advance up to around 9PSI. did you do a 3 or 4th gear pull???? lets see the dyno plot with A/f, you only need to run low 13 mid to high 12 A/F at full boost.





[Modified by rtype11, 2:49 PM 4/8/2002]

teg2snbtrbd

I am running the 7lb spring on the wastegate, but I didn't get over 6.5 psi on any of the pulls. The pull was done in 3rd gear. I currenlty don't have an A/F gauge. All I have are the boost, fuel pressure, EGT and AFC.

Does anyone have a base map for me to plug into my AFC to start from, what should the Hi Throttle and Low Throttle be set at, what shoull the high and low throttle points be set at.

integrx

damn you running a drag3 turbo kit for an automatic ? what other mods do you have?

SIK IN DA HED

thats the problem... its automatic. i dont wanna get flamed on by automatic owners here... but its true... the only way youre going to get the full advantage of turbo with an automatic is gettin it built to boost.

blueciv69

ahh the notorious vtec drop. k here is what you do get cam gears if you cant get both at least get the intake cam.. retard it -2 degrees this should solve your overlap.. gears this is gears sorry//.


[Modified by blueciv69, 11:32 AM 4/9/2002]

Arturbo

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=158293

zojirushi

wait, this is for vtec only?

rtype11

what were your egt readings like?? cn you remember the max temp you hot and at what rpm? you should still make more power than that to the wheel. your car should still spool 7psi easy even if its a slush puppy. where is the vaccum source for the wastegate hooked up to ...the in manifold, where are you getting your boost reading???? are thy reading the same source. Next dyno run I suggest you start out by holding the break down and building a couple PSI against the converter then letting the brake go, should make better power, let the turbo spool.
this will eventually be solved, their is obviously some major tuning that still needs to be done, after that I highly suggest you get your tranny looked at by level 10 see what the can do for you.

teg2snbtrbd

Arturbo: I saw my buddy had made a post about this same problem. Thanks for the advice you supplied him. Wish I had seen it before I did my own post. We are swapping at the Walboro tonight for the stock pump and then putting the inline on. I have my figures crossed that this is the problem. Thanks again.

teg2snbtrbd

The car is the NON-VTEC version.

I also understand that by having the Automatic I will loose HP, but I can't believe it would be close to 100hp. I talked to the guys at overboost and they say that they have done this same setup on several automatics and the worse they had was 220hp at the wheels

My EGT gaugs hasn't ever gone over 1500 fahrenheit at any time and I have had the RPMs up to 7300.

I took my dyno readout to another shop and had them look at it. They said that the problem is that my fuel didn't increase as the RPMs went up. They think I need to hook the inline up, that I am not getting the proper fuel pressure in the higher RPMs. WIll be trying that soon to see if that helps.

Arturbo: I saw my buddy had made a post about this same problem. Thanks for the advice you supplied him. Wish I had seen it before I did my own post. We are swapping at the Walboro tonight for the stock pump and then putting the inline on. I have my figures crossed that this is the problem. Thanks again.

rtype11

1500F is very hot for a car that isnt making high PSI for tuning keep it real rich and around 560-700C then you can start taking fuel out when you have all your base curves., big fuel problem, surprized it didnt blow, you said the AF from tthe wideband was fine...didnt you? get a fuel pump.

DIRep972

iTrader: (1)

GET THE FUEL PUMP IN.. AHHHHHHHHHHHHH why do all these shops do this to people? they should make u take a test before u open up a shop..

U can leave the intank in if u want, but install that inline, I garuntee thats your problem.. When u put it in, take it out for a test drive and let us know what the butt dyno thinks..

Evil DOHC

What are your afc settings and what code are you throwing? You could of dynoed in limp mode causing your hp readings to be very low.
EVIL

teg2snbtrbd

According to the person who did the dyno run the A/F looked good to him, after taking another look at it I don't think it was. The fuel curve never went up. It stayed right were it was from start to finish.

I am pulling the Holley 255 and putting the stock one back in and adding the inline pump. I was told if I left the Holley 255 in there I would be pumping too Rich at low RPMs(which is why I am throwing a code of being too rich). I am setting the car up exactly as the kit was minus the extra items I added(ignition, AFC and fuel rail)

Plan on going back to the dyno sometime this week or next when they have time to fit me in and see where I am at.

I am praying this works and solves the problem. If it doesn't I will be back asking more questions