im trapping about 105-115 range in the quarter depending how much boost I am using...the issue is I have to use fifth every run. my rev limit is 8000, car using 23x8x13slicks and it seems to top fourth low like 105 maybe. is it riskyto put the limit to say 8400-8500 so i can wind out 4th I will have it tuned to the higher limit. bone stock b16 w arp studs and stock jdm sir trans/lsd

im asking in the FI so i can see if anyone else is hitting the 8500 on a boosted b16.

 

Is this stock B16 valve train?

 

Yes

I wouldn't go any higher on stock valvetrain unless you want to risk valve float/dropping a valve.

 

Swap the VT out and rev 9k without issue.

 

switch to some 24.5" slicks, change the valve train, or change trans gearing.

 

A set of valve springs (you don't even need retainers) is far cheaper and less labor intensive than opening up the transmission.

 

It's a very budget oreinented build the long block was free only cost was the arp and cometic gasket. (I use cometic) haha. So were a little nervous about raising it to 8400? It's a lot of work to swap some springs esp with the head on. BUT since I prob can't do the change over without dropping a valve inside the cylinder maybe someone else can . What would that cost? At that point I might as well upgrade the cams too fml

 

The trans calculators only measure with street tires. A taller tire will gain some mph but how much really

 

All you need to do is rotate each cylinder to tdc, pull the spark plug, thread in an air fitting, hook up an air compressor, charge the cylinder to 100psi, and swap springs.

I do spring swaps on tons of motors that way. the compressed air keeps the valves from dropping.

 

Most calculators let you entire tire height.

 

Show me lol they use mm tire sizes and when I convert from inches things don't work out. I'm prob doing it wrong tho lol.

Found out a couple hours labor to install in the head with it bolted down so might go ahead. That's like what 200$ for springs $200 labor new valve seals another cost. And tuning could be 1-150.

Or skip everything and do the hour tuning raise the limit to 8400 tune for it call it a day.

 

Is skimping out on a whopping $400 upgrade worth destroying a motor over? YOU are the only one that can answer that question.

Personally I feel that if you're a cheap ***, you shouldn't be building cars.

 

hope you have a spare motor laying around

8400 constantly will drop a valve

 

Taller slicks don't always work because if you don't have the power it will bog on the short track. Best bet is to buy springs/retainers. It's not that costly and it's insurance then you can rev higher. If you can't afford it then you have no business going faster. You'll just break things and be out way more money than just springs and retainers.

 

http://www.zealautowerks.com/transcalc.php

"Tire Diameter (inches)"

Super simple stuff.

 

lulz

 

Just do the labor yourself - it's not hard.

I've done it a couple times.

Just get itr cams and springs if you're a cheapass.

Better yet, some supertech valve springs and rev to 9500.

 

Pretty much.

if you have a compressor tester then you can use the hose section to thread into the head. go to Lowe's, home depot, or whatever hardware store you like and get a fitting that threads onto the gauge side of the tester hose, put a quick release air fitting on the adapter and you're golden.

I can get you either supertech spring kit (soft or the 85#) for under 200 new. you don't really nerd retainers but if it's something you're considering I can get you tool steel retainers for under 100 new. tool steel lasts far longer than titanium (titanium gets brittle, cracks, fatigues, and galls over time... not to mention a 40-50k mile effective street service life) the tool steel retainers only weigh a few grams more, won't break as easy, and will probably outlast your motor.

*disclaimer. I don't sell or profit on these parts. I'm simply pointing people to deals*

 

Ps I'm seriously debating your toda ITBs. if I sell my random parts lol.. I'm local, looking for trades?

 

if i spent $70 i could have saved my motor with this
http://www.euroexportinc.com/honda-b...ing-compressor
i have an extra set of valve springs in my garage that i could have at least put the inner valve spring in on the exhaust side of my original motor. i was running stock gsr vt with itr cams. $7k later i had to buy a new motor including a new turbo. being cheap and or cutting corners will cost you

 

Sucks you had to learn the hard way but lesson learned and I doubt you'll do it again lol. at least you can help others avoid the same problem

 

This tool > euroexport tool. And its waaaayyyy cheaper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250926302693...S:1120&vxp=mtr

 

co-sign
my new head is a fully built manley valve train with a pnp, yes dual valve springs on BOTH sides, haha. the block is a erl sleeved laskey built with cp pistons and turbo tuff rods with an erl girdle. yeah, i didnt play around this time.

OP
here is what happens when you rev to high and your valve train cant take it or is just plain tired.











if i only spent $70...

 

Yea it's a costly repair.

I've never understood why the euroxport tool costs so much... I know how much their billet materials cost, how much machine time each one requires, and how much bulk anodizing costs.... they are simply trying to maintain a retarded profit margin.

I'm debating about buying one and copying it, producing it with better material for less.

the link you posted... the only issue is you have to pull the rocker arms and lmas. that's a lot of work for an in car replacement.

the euroxport tool is definitely better for in car replacement. also the c arm style that bolts to the cam caps works well, works great in car too.

there's another tool that you press down on the spring/retainer and it pops the keepers out and holds them, then when you install the new stuff it holds the keepers in place until the valvestem catches them. they can be a bitch to push down by hand but with the tool holding and placing keepers when installing is super easy.

 

Kaboom !