First off i'd like to say if anyone has any rude comments or feel like flaming me, just chill out for a second and remember we werent all born knowing everything. (i got a feeling someones gonna wanna flame me lol)

With that said, i got a question about boost controllers. Some have 2 different settings for 2 different driving conditions. My question is, should i even bother with that? I'm gonna be boosting my integra gsr and its gonna be my daily driver. Of course im gonna get it tuned, but if i get it tuned...say..on the ''high mode at 15 PSI'' (for racing conditions), then when im running on the ''low mode at 6 PSI''(non-racing conditions) is it gonna affect the tuning? Will everything still run okay when I change the mode?

I'm assuming it wont be tuned when i switch to ''low mode'', if that's so then is it possible to get it tuned on both modes?

Or am i just stupid and a tune is a tune and it wont matter what mode its on?

Some help would be great. Thanks in advance!

 

should not affect the tuning, at that low of boost. you will be fine.
my civic was tuned to 28 and ran 17 the same way.

 

well it will effect the tuning but the car will still run, you would just be running a tad richer on the low boost rather then under high boost.

Personally I would have a map saved for the high boost aka when you race it(hopefully ONLY at a track)

then a street tune that why you can drive it around all day long on low boost, when you get to the track, load up your high boost map switch over to the high boost setting and away you go.

also if you wanted to have high boost on the street just swap the maps before you head out for the day and keep it on high boost for the day.

a tune is only a tune for the set you tune it for.. if you change something in that set up then technically you need to retune for the change.

but yeah if you tune it for the high boost you will just run a tad richer and not be making max power on the low boost setting.

Oh yeah you never want to change maps while driving the car, that would be really bad...

what also you COULD try is maybe using one of the nitrous controls(if your using Hondata) and have it dump fuel so that you would use the scramble boost function if you wanted to on the street and have the extra fuel for the added boost when you switched it over, just an idea I'm not sure if you can do that but I dont see why not.

 

the biggest thing here is what management are u using?

if AEM then the dual stage boost controller will work out well. AEM has map modifiers ( for nitrous, dual stage boost controllers, race gas, etc) these can be wired to external switches. this doesnt switch the map... it just changes it.

once again if youre using AEM, you can use a GM boost solenoid. ( oem on supercharged buicks/pontiacs) aem can use tach signal and vss to "know" what gear youre in. this way you can program the solenoid to program boost levels per gear.

 

i was told that u would just tune for the higher boost b/c u have to go past the lower setting to get to the higher setting.


u have to pass 6 to get to 12, and when u stay at 6, so does the tune/map

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DCxMagus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well it will effect the tuning but the car will still run, you would just be running a tad richer on the low boost rather then under high boost.

Personally I would have a map saved for the high boost aka when you race it(hopefully ONLY at a track)

then a street tune that why you can drive it around all day long on low boost, when you get to the track, load up your high boost map switch over to the high boost setting and away you go.

also if you wanted to have high boost on the street just swap the maps before you head out for the day and keep it on high boost for the day.

a tune is only a tune for the set you tune it for.. if you change something in that set up then technically you need to retune for the change.

but yeah if you tune it for the high boost you will just run a tad richer and not be making max power on the low boost setting.

Oh yeah you never want to change maps while driving the car, that would be really bad...

what also you COULD try is maybe using one of the nitrous controls(if your using Hondata) and have it dump fuel so that you would use the scramble boost function if you wanted to on the street and have the extra fuel for the added boost when you switched it over, just an idea I'm not sure if you can do that but I dont see why not. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, that post made my head hurt. Can you explain why an engine tuned for say 15psi of boost will run rich if the boost is turned down via mbc or ebc?? This doesn't make any sense to me. An engine is tuned (fuel and timing) for engine load and rpm right?? So if an engine is tuned for 15psi, it should be tuned for every engine load and rpm from vacuum to 15psi (and likely tuned a little higher just in case of a boost spike) and if it is running @ 7psi it should be right on as far as timing and fuel. I am in no way a tuner, but am I missing something here?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedB16EJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the biggest thing here is what management are u using?

if AEM then the dual stage boost controller will work out well. AEM has map modifiers ( for nitrous, dual stage boost controllers, race gas, etc) these can be wired to external switches. this doesnt switch the map... it just changes it.

once again if youre using AEM, you can use a GM boost solenoid. ( oem on supercharged buicks/pontiacs) aem can use tach signal and vss to "know" what gear youre in. this way you can program the solenoid to program boost levels per
gear. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I have the AEM and it didn't work to well with the GM solenoid. Everything was set up correctly but it wouldn't work right. Brand new ems, brand new solenoid, tuned by a competant tuner. Left us scratching our heads. I have heard that the gm solenoid isn't all that great. Maybe just rumors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeyserSoze &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well I have the AEM and it didn't work to well with the GM solenoid. Everything was set up correctly but it wouldn't work right. Brand new ems, brand new solenoid, tuned by a competant tuner. Left us scratching our heads. I have heard that the gm solenoid isn't all that great. Maybe just rumors. </TD></TR></TABLE>


hmmm? well i dont know? my friend brian is using the gm boost solenoid and it works GREAT. i just bought AEM and a gm boost solenoid. only problem is im an ohioian and its winter so no luck testing tho.

 

So if i tune for high mode at 12 PSI (race conditions)..... when I daily drive at 6 psi (non-race conditions) it'll be okay right? I just dont wanna take a chance of harming my engine.

 

Anyone?

 

as long as you have it tuned also for the high boost, it'll be no problem. that's according to my tuner. the engine management uses the map sensor to apply so much fuel and spark. the fuel and ignition changes as you change the manifold pressure. when it's tuned at 20 psi, it's tuned for everything under as well. so you can have your boost controller set at 10 psi for low and 20 psi for high or whatever as long as you have it tuned for 20psi. this is the simplest i can explain it. it'd be easier with a pic of the fuel and ign map so you can understand how it works.

 

If it is tuned correctly, you shouldn't have any issues. As stated allready, the ecu uses the the readings from the map sensor to determine fuel and ign. timing. The engine only needs x amount fuel when the engine is at x rpm with y amount of boost regardless of what your boost controller is set at.

 

ok, thanks for the info fellas! your the best!