johnsc2235

I have searched and read thru so many pages of information over the past couple days that I get so many conflicting answers so I thought that I would just ask it and see if I get a response to point me in the correct direction. Thanks also ahead of time for anyone with a good answer. I have a GSR and just got a Jackson kit, It came with a 4.0 pulley and a 3.8 pulley. Now from my understanding the 3.8 is the high boost which should be around 10psi. However when I got it the 3.8 pulley is in rough shape, the 4.0 pulley looks almost new. Also my alternator pulley looks pretty beat up as well. Now I was thinking I could potentially put on the 4.0 pulley since it is in better condition and get a mvm stepper alternator pulley, that way I would only have to buy one pulley vs buying another 3.8 pulley and another alternator pulley. If I were to do the 4.0 pulley and the alternator stepper pulley what would my psi be? I do not want to run more than 10psi because the heat issue and I am not planning on running a cooler. The rest of my set up is hondata ecu, rc440, wal 255 pump, aem fpr, aem fuel rail, password jdm carbon intake, dc header, hks hi power cat back. Basically Im looking to be in the 8-10 psi range...

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

go here and use the calc for your engine
http://ftlracing.com/JRSC_calculators.htm

there is a lot of info there
if you get stuck ask me for help

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

ditch the dc header and get a kamikaze header, the dc design does nothing to improve to power of a JRSC car... the Kamikaze has very short runners that are 4-1 (almost as long as a mini ram manifold) and then it goes to a 2.5 or 3" downpipe... it helps the JRSC cars make gobs of torque down low.

In comparison your DC header was made for midrange-topend power where the JRSC is basically useless.... most JRSC cars make most of their gains by 3,000rpm then it all tapers off/flattens out from there

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

Wantboost do a little more research pls get the facts straight regaurding power

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

every jrsc dyno I see starts having power fall off after 3k, especially the smaller chargers... mostly it's due to heat and how inefficient the supercharger is.

I still don't get why people like them so much, I could see investing in a magnacharger kit or even using an Eaton TVS blower but the technology of the b/d jrsc kits is antiquated at best

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

the majority of the setups ive looked at including myn start to make good power @3000rpm
the lower boost kits 6-7psi start to drop off around 7-7500

my power levels are still climbing @9500 and tq starts to drop off @ 8700 but ever so slightly

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

good is a relative term. a dyno plot of a back to back test with a stock jrsc kit and a basic turbo kit showed the jrsc made more power from idle to 3k and after 3k the turbo kit ran away.

that was all I needed to see to make me not want a supercharger lol
has a jrsc broken 300whp yet?

Natural Aspirations

The JRSC has it's place, making impressive HP numbers is not that place. Just because a turbo makes more power does not mean the Eaton falls off, they are actually quite linear when set up properly.

I notice all of the E-knowledge you have but have YOU even broken 300hp on a Honda yet?

bks84

iTrader: (9)

Awesome post is awesome!

Natural Aspirations

Thanks! Your quote was warming.

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

I have built and tuned a itr with a jrsc that made 280 on e85. I would recommend using the 4.0 pulley and a stepper on the alternator. You will constantly tightening belts with the 3.8.

Btw after having driven a 300hp turbo b series back to back with this car I would for sure prefer the supercharged car for a daily driver and especially autocross. The dyno does not tell you how the car feels driving it. Superchargers are much more linear, make power instantly when stomping the throttle, and part throttle modulation is so much better. At 300hp the jrsc is pretty much maxed out. If your goal is more than that turbo is obviously the way to go. 300 or less supercharger for the win.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I find that's really on the turbocharger and manifold combination. One can easily make 300whp on a giant T67, run like crap for autox or street. Put that in a tubular log manifold and a GTX2863R, and I'll gladly give you a run for the money on the same 300whp level in linear response to midrange and use of throttle.

If it was the run of the mill "T3/T04E" 57 or 60 "trim", then of course that would happen.

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

Turbo = Ego Obesity
when will you people just put up n shut up
this was a discussion on JRSC and superchargeing

end rant
just sick of the bashings about the world should revolve around turbo's

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

C'mon.. now you know good and well that I wasn't bashing supercharged applications. But at the same time, one can't speak ignorance about the other side when even the example used was vague and uninformed. Of course both methods of F.I are important, but don't be the person throwing the first stone, here..

No ego here. But incorrect is incorrect..

stangrcr1

Mine is not a racer. I want driveability power, which is where the JRSC excels. Or Accels...

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

Shodan
all good we both know where we are coming from
but Ive parellaxed the stone for a glass pane to the rocks in ones head

johnsc2235

I looked again at the extra pulley and it says 4.2 so that is the super low boost one..Anyways, I contacted ASPracing and they will make me whatever pulley I need for the blower and the alternator and those pulleys have the lips on the edges to catch the belt, so my next question is what combination should I get? get a regular double for the alternator and the 3.8 or do the 4.0 and the stepper alternator pulley? Just a question as to why the 3.8 pulley rips belts off? I am looking for a max of 10psi. This is just a daily driver and an occasional autocross. And like I said before I already had a turbo LS and yes fun, I just thought I would try something different and in my opinion anything over 300HP on and FWD car is a waste really for a daily driver. I had that in my turbo LS and I couldn't even put it all down on the road, it would pull all over the place even with a LSD Trans. So Id be happy with 225-250HP

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

There is nothing wrong with 3.8 or even 3.6
throwing belts it is from THE INSTALL not done properly
a lack of belt wrap or worn parts, loose belt
Alignment Alignment Alignment Alignment

these specs are @8200rpm and at 0ft above sea level and @68f
all calcs are a close guide as all cars differ in the fiinal tune
gsr crank + 4 + stock Alt = 5.6psi = 198 hp inlet temp 150f
gsr crank + 3.8 + stock Alt = 7psi = 209 hp inlet temp 168f
gsr crank + 4 + Alt 14%stepper= 9psi = 225hp inlet temp 194f
gsr crank + 3.8 + Alt 14%stepper= 10psi = 234hp inlet temp 210f

above 180f inlet without cooling is a big problem

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

The problem is the belts on Hondas are so skinny. I promise you will want the larger supercharger pulley and the stepper on the alternator. If you want more boost you can get a crv crank pulley or the jrsc overdrive crank pulley if you can find one.

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

I have driven many cars that have responsive turbos, 1.8t's, evo's, 335's, focus st...the supercharged car is simply a different feel as I'm sure you know. It really feels like a much larger n/a engine. No surge in torque as it starts to come on boost mid corner and upsetting the chassis trying to modulate it. I feel like turbos have their place just like superchargers.

johnsc2235

So Since I have really no experience with superchargers, all i have experience in is Turbo stuff, how much of a problem is intake temps as you say? Obviously I know that it causes detonation but when you tune it can't you retard the timing and add enough fuel to combat that problem?

johnsc2235

Like I have said before, I am not going to do any intercooler setup at all on this, just a plain and simple set up, so from what I am reading on what your saying I can only boost around 8psi without running into problems with heat..How much of a problem will it be if I boost 9-10psi? What should I be looking for and how do I figure out how much heat it being pushed into the cylinders?

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

The big problem of heat is not just detonation
you also have the problem of breaking ring lands
with wot pulls and heat soak your going to turn the inlet into a flame thrower

it all comes down to what your going to use it for
drag would be ok ...with time to cool down in between races
circuit track it would loose power and cause possible failure

Have a play with the calc here and you will see the heat problems at relevant boost psi
http://ftlracing.com/JRSC_calculators.htm

johnsc2235

So after much reading and research, I've decided to just stick around the 7-8psi boost as anymore seems to be a waste unless your going to intercool it which Im not planning to do. So with that said, will 7-8psi be ok, like say on a hot day will I still be ok? Also are any of you guys running arp headbolts or block guards on any of this stuff? Coming from a few turbo'd Ls and Gsr cars, I always boosted 12-14psi with block guards and arp headbolts and never not once had any issues and ran both cars hard. Tracked them both and put on 88K on one and over 100K on the other one. Just trying to figure out what I all got to order to get this build going. Another question, how many of you running lower boost are running catch cans?

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

block gaurd not needed
Head bolts are up to you ...but stock will do fine
unless your assembling the motor why not put them in