lamboextreme

i was thinking about boosting in the future but a friend is offering me his 82011 zex dry N02 kit for $200, I've searched already and it looks that the 55hp shot is safe for my 00 Si with I/H/E CTR cams and AEM cam gears without further modification. has anyone had bad experiences with this or similar setup, also how much does it cost to refill the 10lbs bottle? thanks


Modified by lamboextreme at 6:19 PM 1/16/2007


Modified by lamboextreme at 6:19 PM 1/16/2007

AaroNX

You're gonna have to ask someone local to you about the cost. It seems to vary ALOT from area to area.

lamboextreme

do you think is worth it?

RC000E

A 55 shot ZEX is a cakewalk for your 00 Si....I personally blew a 70 shot through a Y8 for over a year and a half, a 100 shot through a mini-me for 6+ months, and a 80 shot through an Integra LS for over a year.

Nitrous blows 100% all the time, so the higher the rpm, the quicker the valve opening/closing event, therefore the less nitrous that gets in the cylinder. Point being with a B-16 you could certainly put a 75+ shot through with about 3 degrees timing retard and have no problems at all. Be sure all your vac lines important to the system for fuel pressure increase are secure (use a dab of superglue).

200 bucks for a ZEX kit is a good price so don't sweat that. Nitrous typically costs between 3.50 to 6.00 a pound...with the average I've seen being around 5 bucks.

Running a 55 shot, doing little stints, short races and maybe a couple 1-4 gear pulls your looking at about 14-18 uses in a bottle. Biggest thing about the juice man, is it's torque in a bottle...it'll make that B16 an entirely different motor. You have to do it just to say you have.

lamboextreme

when you said you used a 70-100 shot for the amount of time you did, you stop using it becuase of something else or related to N02 problems?

lamboextreme

also when a lot of people say tune it what does the actual tuner do? adjust timing?
or is this for a direct shot and wet only?


Modified by lamboextreme at 8:58 PM 1/16/2007

RC000E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lamboextreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you said you used a 70-100 shot for the amount of time you did, you stop using it becuase of something else or related to N02 problems? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, with the mini-me I did have an issue. I went with a 100shot after a few months running a 70. Don't get me wrong, the motor handled it fine. One night though, I raced a GTP with a pulley and what not, and ended up losing my FPR line and dropping fuel pressure. Since I didn't have my pressure safety switch hooked up on that setup I leaned out momentarily, the motor detonated, I let off...but it was too late.

The idle was rough immediately. I ended up melting a small edge of the #2 piston and was losing compression at lower rpms. Rebuilt it in a night in car and never had the problem again...that's why I say superglue your lines so they don't blow off.

That was the only issue I ever had though. Nitrous is extremely reliable...especially the dry kits. The other setups I ran I just simply sold the one car, that's why I ran it that length of time only. It [the integra] sold with the system installed and functioning fine.

The other motor [Y8] was pulled out of my CRX to simply build it and go to a boosted setup. The motor actually looked phenominal inside upon disassembly. The exhaust valves were white, but I could still see crosshatch on the cylinder walls...it was super clean inside.

On the tuning, with a dry kit, the tuning is basically done for you. Run the appropriate fuel jet, and retard 2 degrees for every 50 shot you run (50 shot 2 degrees, 100 shot 4 degrees, etc). Honestly you can get away with stock timing on a 50 shot, but I liked to run 89 octane instead of 93 since I only blew the nitrous here and there. I ran 4 degrees retard on a 70 shot and ran 89 octane all the time...never a ping. It hurt a little when off the bottle...but with the bottle I wasn't racing anyone without it.

You can tune the setup with EMS if you choose. Generally dry systems are just quick and dirty though....get the right fuel jet and do some timing retard. You could obviously tune for power if you have a switchable map, but it really isn't necessary if your just racing around on the street or at the track here and there.

HandoEX

I typically pay $5.00/lb here in North Dakota. I've paid $4.00 before though and would expect to pay that in more urban areas. A 55 shot would be fine with colder plugs. Definately use an rpm activated window switch whenever nitrous is used. I've sprayed the 82011 Zex kit on my Accord for 2+seasons on a 55-75 shot with no problems (160k+ on the motor too).

Good luck

lamboextreme

thanks for all the input, but i have one more question here in cali the higher octane i can get at the pump is 91 octane did you guys use octane boosters? also does retarding the timming lower performance when not using N02?


Modified by lamboextreme at 9:48 PM 1/17/2007

Reedy

Ive run wet 70 shots through my gsr motor for 2+ years on stock timing. I run colder plugs and 93 octane. And since it is a wet kit I do have an ERL fuel rail too(I drilled and tapped it in the center for my fuel solinoid) Never had a problem at all.

RC000E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lamboextreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for all the input, but i have one more question here in cali the higher octane i can get at the pump is 91 octane did you guys use octane boosters? also does retarding the timming lower performance when not using N02?


Modified by lamboextreme at 9:48 PM 1/17/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

Like I said, with timing retard you can run 89....I did.

Yeah, a few rules should be stated I suppose.

1. Run a colder plug
2. Don't activate under 3,000 rpm
3. Don't do excessively long pulls (1-5th)
4. Use a pressure safety switch with a dry kit
5. Don't get into button activation and all that F+F dumb ****...use a throttle activation microswitch or the TPS wiring like ZEX uses.
6. Retard the timing on everything over a 50 shot for piece of mind and safety sake.
7. Attempt to avoid the stock rev limiter...it's a fuel cut and could cause a lean condition.

BuiltforSin

I have a ZEX dry kit. ive run a 55shot on my Y8 for a couple months now, and I love it. I have a 10lb. bottle and it cost me $42.50 to get the bottle filled. As soon as I get a camgear and find my jets Im hoping to up to a 75 shot. The car is completely different on the bottle.. I love it. 1st is pretty much non-existent in the car. lol.

like some people stated though.. run colder plugs, dont spray below 3000rpms, use atleast 91 octane and dont hit the rev limiter!! I came extremely close one time and the car popped, and popped a cloud of black smoke out the tail pipe. I think thats the day the cat took a ****. Luckily everything was fine, and didnt encounter any problems afterwards. car still runs golden!

only disadvantage is 93 octane isnt cheap

SPOOLINmatt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Wonderfull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no2???? nitrogen dioxide huh???? hmmmmmmmm IDK </TD></TR></TABLE>

or nitric oxide, one of those, i was thinking the same thing.

N2O is Nitrous Oxide

lamboextreme

ha! i made a mistake it's N20 not N02. i guess i was thinking about going to the gym that time.


Modified by lamboextreme at 5:37 PM 1/18/2007