Ok guys i have a 95 ex with a z6 and I just aquired a turbo kit through a trade and was wondering if u guys could help me id the turbo so i can find compressor maps for it and other useful info. I traded a skunk 2 intake mani for the whole kit and had my buddy weld on it so I could get a gasket to seal on it. I was told it was a t3/t4 off a old volvo but i was thinking t3 off a old dodge or ford. Here is whats written on it:
m24, m4, a/r .48 on exhaust, acoe84, air research and the serial tag reads: garret p?n 466672 9002. I also have a few questions if anyone could help me out on em.

1. Should I tee the feed for the coolant from the top rad hose than t the drain to the bottom rad hose? Should lowes plumbing pretty much everything I need, any other suggestions?
2. What type/size of oil restrictor should I use?
3. I should of taken pics of the down pipe, but ones a five bolt and the other is a vband lol so Im kinda skrewed there any ideas without fabricating. Is there just a plate i could order to bolt directly to this then cut and weld it on my downpipe?
4. The wastegate actuator is bent a lil, with this open it prematurely or keep it closed longer then what is suppose to be?
5. What is the stock wg on this turbo set at? ie. boost pressure?
6. I have some exhaust gasket maker made by mr gasket. Its paper but really thick and iv had a lot of good luck with it, should i use this or find some metal gasket maker? What did this turbo come stock on so i can get the gasket?
7.. If Im also going to b useing a lil nitrous with this turbo to get things going what rpm do u recommend? i was thinking 2k-vtec which would b around 4k
8. Could I use the boost by gear feature on hondatas300 to flutter a nitrous solenoid so it could gradually introduce nitrous instead of one big wallop? If i could, could i also use another solenoid to use the actual boost by gear at the same time. Or would I need two of those options on hondata so i could control them seperatly
Thanks for any input

Heres some pics

 

Just found where it say .42 on the inside of the compressor housing, so im assuming thats ar. Hope that helps with the id of this thing

 

bump, someone help me out please

 

Hey sr20: I'm a turbo international dealer

http://www.turbointernational.com/pr...turboModel=372

that is your turbo, trust me: garrett replaces the first 0 in the second sequence with different numbers for reasons known only to them.

I rebuilt one of these a few weeks ago, the turbine wheel is too big for a sr20 and the compressor wheel is too small to make power. This turbo is designed to be driven by low exhaust pressure and to make a small amount of boost.

 

What I mean is, the shape of the compressor wheel is not a high RPM/high efficiency design. If you spin it up at high speeds, it won't make that much more power than if it ruins at medium speed/medium boost levels. It's designed to flow a certain amount of air and no more.

 

This is going on a stock d16z6 (which i guess makes it worse haha) and i dont plan on running over 200hp. Thanks, think that pretty much id's it.
I actually have the downpipe so all i need is a sandwitch plate and turbo feed line. What kind of restrictor should i use on it. As of the power, i pretty much got the kit for free and if the powerband is poop i guess its ok, if it wont flow more than 160hp its cool i got a nitrous shot to make it to 200. U think its still worth it or find a different turbo? I would assume if it could flow enough air to support a 2.3 volvo (is it a diesal?)
it could give me 40+hp efficiantly.

 

I have a d16y8 and run a Greddy 15G or a TD04H. Now a good turbo would be one off a volvo which is a TD04 series variant. I was able to put down 209.5whp with that small of a turbo and it is for a DD car. The turbo you have, if in fact what was said is true would be bad for a d series. They do not put out a lot of gas pressure until you are in mid to high rpms, so the spool time would be bad on it for this application. Unless I am confused from what was posted. It is a good turbo just not for this app.

 

seems like 200hp lands at the ending of 75% efficiecy island at 2.4 pressure ratio (still gotta figure the math out)

 

You dont want to go too far over 200 whp. From what I read the rods in the D series do not like it. I am like I said at 209 and run rich. If you can be around 200 and at 75% it shouldn't be bad. My only thinking is where and how quick that will spool up.

 

I would have took him up on that trade too. Put it on and see how it runs.. If all else fails and you need a different turbo you still would be coming out ahead.

 

it will take you to around 200, it will just be a little laggy because of the t3 wheel and your displacement.
And it won't last that long, 270 deg. thrust bearing.

 

Thats what the nitrous and hondata r for lol, Id b happy with full boost by 4k or when vtec engages like my last turbo motor. i imagine this thing is from the early 90s, late 80s. Im wondering if theres any life left period, there is no shaft play. seeing how its watercooled i assumed thatd prolong the life but i dunno. R they easily rebuildable? Also im trying to order the restricter today is there any rules i should follow as far as the oil weight or what size should i get? Never seen definate info on restrictor size.

Stupid question coming ur way, i have a compressor housing off a chinese charger that was a t3/t4 57 trim i think. Can i install that housing or would it even help. I was thinking id need to change the wheel with it but i dunno

thanks for all the help guys

 

Whats up guys any help on the other questions, weve only id'd the turbo.

 

They can be rebuilt pretty easily, if it smokes, it's done.

I don't think you need a restrictor for a t3-I think people see smoke because they have used or junk turbos, and the restrictor just makes the turbo stop smoking by starving the bearings. But I could be wrong-someone correct me?

You cannot install the housing without modifying it to accept the wheel: there are thousands of compressor wheel sizes, so the odds of finding a housing that is the exact same size as your wheel are about nill, which means that you cannot use it.

 

So if its got oil in the ic piping go for a rebuild or different turbo really and the feed lines are 1/8 npt which should b fine right. what bout stock boost pressure? and the coolent lines?

 

all turbos will blow a little oil past their seals, so there will be some oil inside your pipes. if there is so much blow by that there is smoke, that's when you need something else.

you should read this book

http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-.../dp/0837601606


I'm not a fabricator nor do I install custom turbos. I work with fabricators, but I primarily repair and sell turbos and go to school on the GI bill.

with coolant lines, as long as no water leaks out when you are done, you did it right. everything else is up to you, and you can get custom banjo lines made in most major metropolitan areas to spec.

 

So i found my feed and return fittings yesterday. The feed fitting has a tiny hole which i assumed would b considered a restrictor. Its like the size of my nitrous jet mayb around 36 thou, should I drill it out a lil? or just run it like it is

 

So five years later this thing is still running. IV put about 100k miles on the turbo and still no shaft play. It gets drive. Every day. Full spool is at 3k rpms and I'm using hondata with quick spool. At the track it layer down a 12.4 at 114 with slicks 115 with street tires. I'm really in awe about how this turned out. Still running strong

 

I have nothing to add. I saw the date and thought some dope necroposted only to find the OP posted an update.

That's actually really cool that it's still running strong 5 years later. How much horse power did it end up making?

 

i didnt even look at the original post dates until i saw the update about 5 years later. Im curious to also know the power output and total timing its running.

 

I'm glad you updated this for us man, I wish people would more often.

 

I actually have never dyno d it. Funny story, I pulled up next to a super clean type r a couple months back and gave it a Lil romping and it turned out to be the owner of the local speed shop. He contacted me through Facebook and offered a few free dyno pulls but with kids and work I never made it. I may still give it a shot shortly. I want to say total timing is may be 19 or 20 at 15 pounds and 8k rpm. I'd have to check. I'm really starting to get the itch to get some more power out of this thing. I'm planning on either running a stock a6 block or doing a vitara build but funding is always low for me with the family and house. It being my only car doesn't help much but most stuff I can do in a day off with the right preperation. I run it on 93 octane but am patiently waiting for e85 to get closer than 70 miles to me. There's a huge market here for it.

 

I did have some issues when I went to the track a year ago with getting boost past 15. I recently changed my bov and that alone gave me another 3 psi lol so evidently iv had a leaky bov this whole time. I'm also thinking my stock cams may be at there limit so I'm considering a bigger cam and springs but I still worry the block won't handle the extra power and I gotta be approaching the turbos limit also. So whenever I get a extra 1200 bucks I'll be shooting for 400 or low 11s lol if i never get to the dyno

 

A current pic

 

Are you running a side pipe? That dp just kinda meanders and i'm not sure where its headed...