profec b spec 2 settings on d16z
Has anyone else used a profec B spec II? What were there gain, set gain and boost % set at for their specific psi? I am having problems building up large boost fast. by 7,000 rpm i'm only in the 5-7psi range in 3rd gear. Plus the lag is a lot, any help would be great.
hopefully your spec II won't turn out like mine.. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=782447
bump for you
bump for you
Im gonna take it to the dyno tomorrow, hopefully they can lead me in the right direction. I've searched HT thread a lot, but I havent come up with much.
Usually you want to set the start boost setting about .2bar less than you want the acual boost to be. I have ran mine like this since i got it and been able to hold boost with no issues. I have my gain set at 0% also.
Just a little more explanition... if you have a .7 bar spring (10psi)... and you set the increase at 20%, then that is going to raise the boost to .9(13.5psi) you would want to put your start gain at .7bar.
More math... if you set the increase to 40% then that would raise the boost from the .7bar to 1.1bar. You would set the start boost at .9bar.
I have seen that this is pretty successful with stopping the creep and having the silinoid hold the boost pressure.
Keep in mind the examples i used is for easy math. If you have a .5 bar spring, then every 20% will raise the boost 1psi.
Let me know if this was helpful or confusing.
EDIT...more info... if the boost falls off then is when you can add some gain to the controller.
Just a little more explanition... if you have a .7 bar spring (10psi)... and you set the increase at 20%, then that is going to raise the boost to .9(13.5psi) you would want to put your start gain at .7bar.
More math... if you set the increase to 40% then that would raise the boost from the .7bar to 1.1bar. You would set the start boost at .9bar.
I have seen that this is pretty successful with stopping the creep and having the silinoid hold the boost pressure.
Keep in mind the examples i used is for easy math. If you have a .5 bar spring, then every 20% will raise the boost 1psi.
Let me know if this was helpful or confusing.
EDIT...more info... if the boost falls off then is when you can add some gain to the controller.
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how do you have if hooked up? and what kinda wastegate u runing? my settings were 22, 8, 24 , in the order you go through the menu. mine built boost realy fast and held it at 11.5 psi. full boost was at 4200rpm on a gsr with a t3/t4oe.
Im running a t3/4 on a d16z with a tial 35mm or 38mm wastegate, with a 8psi spring and a s-afc 2 hack. The vacum lines are all hooked up right, I've checked them so many times its ridiculous, My settings are as follows,
Low
% 10 gain 5 set gain 60
High
% 17 gain 7 set gain 70
before I had the gain about 2-3 % above the %. dont reccomend that.
I build boost better now, but the lag is still bad, and I cant even boost to 8psi until 6-7K rpm's.
I also get a check engine light, I though if you s-afc hack up to 10psi you shouldnt get one? I think I am running too rich, cause before the hack when I got an engine light the car was still driveable, now when i get it, the car acts all weird and I have to turn it off and back on again. When I do, it sputters and chokes, also between gear shifts 2-3 and 3-4 on low throttle, I get a small backfire noise. Very quite like a muffled pop. Should I lower my S-afc settings more. There at -43% already. My a/f guage shows I'm still running rich.
Thanks for the help
Low
% 10 gain 5 set gain 60
High
% 17 gain 7 set gain 70
before I had the gain about 2-3 % above the %. dont reccomend that.
I build boost better now, but the lag is still bad, and I cant even boost to 8psi until 6-7K rpm's.
I also get a check engine light, I though if you s-afc hack up to 10psi you shouldnt get one? I think I am running too rich, cause before the hack when I got an engine light the car was still driveable, now when i get it, the car acts all weird and I have to turn it off and back on again. When I do, it sputters and chokes, also between gear shifts 2-3 and 3-4 on low throttle, I get a small backfire noise. Very quite like a muffled pop. Should I lower my S-afc settings more. There at -43% already. My a/f guage shows I'm still running rich.
Thanks for the help
I have the Profec B Spec 2 on my 2001 Civic Ex and this is how I understand it to work.
The START BOOST setting, the first setting you see when you turn the **** to the right, is a percentage of the PSI that your setup is capable of making.
i.e. With setup capable of 20 psi max, set the START BOOST to 20% or 4 PSI.
The SET GAIN setting is directly related to the START BOOST setting. If START BOOST is set at 20% then you will need to set the SET GAIN to 4 PSI.
The GAIN setting controls how fast you make boost and initially you should set it at 10%. You will need to make a run and see if you are spiking or boost is falling off. If the boost is spiking then you need to turn down the GAIN by 2%. If the boost is falling off then you need to up the GAIN by 2%.
The rest of the settings are pretty self explanatory and easy to figure out. My settings for a d17 with a T3 and an internal wastegate are as follows:
Low Setting:
START BOOST: 20%
GAIN: 10%
SET GAIN: 4 PSI
High Setting:
START BOOST: 32%
GAIN: 10%
SET GAIN: 7 PSI
Please don't think that using these EXACT settings on your setup will work. They are a combination of trial and error and basic knowledge of the EBC.
The START BOOST setting, the first setting you see when you turn the **** to the right, is a percentage of the PSI that your setup is capable of making.
i.e. With setup capable of 20 psi max, set the START BOOST to 20% or 4 PSI.
The SET GAIN setting is directly related to the START BOOST setting. If START BOOST is set at 20% then you will need to set the SET GAIN to 4 PSI.
The GAIN setting controls how fast you make boost and initially you should set it at 10%. You will need to make a run and see if you are spiking or boost is falling off. If the boost is spiking then you need to turn down the GAIN by 2%. If the boost is falling off then you need to up the GAIN by 2%.
The rest of the settings are pretty self explanatory and easy to figure out. My settings for a d17 with a T3 and an internal wastegate are as follows:
Low Setting:
START BOOST: 20%
GAIN: 10%
SET GAIN: 4 PSI
High Setting:
START BOOST: 32%
GAIN: 10%
SET GAIN: 7 PSI
Please don't think that using these EXACT settings on your setup will work. They are a combination of trial and error and basic knowledge of the EBC.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FlatTire »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im running a t3/4 on a d16z with a tial 35mm or 38mm wastegate, with a 8psi spring and a s-afc 2 hack. The vacum lines are all hooked up right, I've checked them so many times its ridiculous, My settings are as follows,
Low
% 10 gain 5 set gain 60
High
% 17 gain 7 set gain 70
before I had the gain about 2-3 % above the %. dont reccomend that.
I build boost better now, but the lag is still bad, and I cant even boost to 8psi until 6-7K rpm's.
I also get a check engine light, I though if you s-afc hack up to 10psi you shouldnt get one? I think I am running too rich, cause before the hack when I got an engine light the car was still driveable, now when i get it, the car acts all weird and I have to turn it off and back on again. When I do, it sputters and chokes, also between gear shifts 2-3 and 3-4 on low throttle, I get a small backfire noise. Very quite like a muffled pop. Should I lower my S-afc settings more. There at -43% already. My a/f guage shows I'm still running rich.
Thanks for the help
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You aren't building boost because your START BOOST setting is way off. Read above ^^^
Low
% 10 gain 5 set gain 60
High
% 17 gain 7 set gain 70
before I had the gain about 2-3 % above the %. dont reccomend that.
I build boost better now, but the lag is still bad, and I cant even boost to 8psi until 6-7K rpm's.
I also get a check engine light, I though if you s-afc hack up to 10psi you shouldnt get one? I think I am running too rich, cause before the hack when I got an engine light the car was still driveable, now when i get it, the car acts all weird and I have to turn it off and back on again. When I do, it sputters and chokes, also between gear shifts 2-3 and 3-4 on low throttle, I get a small backfire noise. Very quite like a muffled pop. Should I lower my S-afc settings more. There at -43% already. My a/f guage shows I'm still running rich.
Thanks for the help
</TD></TR></TABLE>You aren't building boost because your START BOOST setting is way off. Read above ^^^
My start boost meaning the % at 10, so for 8psi I should turn it up to 40% because my turbo makes 20psi, 8/20 = 40%
And when your set gain is at 4psi, you mean 40 on the controller right? I've read you should set your set gain 2 psi below what your trying to boost? so for 8psi, 60 start gain would be correct?
Thanks
And when your set gain is at 4psi, you mean 40 on the controller right? I've read you should set your set gain 2 psi below what your trying to boost? so for 8psi, 60 start gain would be correct?
Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FlatTire »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My start boost meaning the % at 10, so for 8psi I should turn it up to 40% because my turbo makes 20psi, 8/20 = 40%
And when your set gain is at 4psi, you mean 40 on the controller right? I've read you should set your set gain 2 psi below what your trying to boost? so for 8psi, 60 start gain would be correct?
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ya you are on the right track. The only reason I can think of to set the SET GAIN 2 PSI lower is because the profec doesnt read PSI correctly. And yes, 4 PSI on the Profec is 40.
And when your set gain is at 4psi, you mean 40 on the controller right? I've read you should set your set gain 2 psi below what your trying to boost? so for 8psi, 60 start gain would be correct?
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ya you are on the right track. The only reason I can think of to set the SET GAIN 2 PSI lower is because the profec doesnt read PSI correctly. And yes, 4 PSI on the Profec is 40.
Is it normal for the controller to show a vacum of -10psi when idle? my boost guage broke in the mail, it shows a vacum of -30, luckily its on warrenty
No it is not normal. I show 0 at idle. Either it isn't hooked up correctly or you have some others issues. Are you using a check valve setup or missing link?
EDIT: My idle is at -99 I dont know what i was thinking when I posted that it was 0.
Modified by eghatchproject at 11:22 PM 3/21/2004
EDIT: My idle is at -99 I dont know what i was thinking when I posted that it was 0.
Modified by eghatchproject at 11:22 PM 3/21/2004
no, I think I will be using a missing link soon though. I have the unit hooked up as follows
Well I can see one problem already, I am using an external wasteate, however I hooked it up as if I was using as an actuator.
The COM port runs to the top of the wastegate.
The NO port, (should be NC, I'll fix today) runs to a T and goes to the side of the wastegate, and the other line goes to the turbo housing pressure source.
I also have the fuel pressure reg. line tap'd and it goes to a T, one line to the main unit, the other to the boost guage.
Well I can see one problem already, I am using an external wasteate, however I hooked it up as if I was using as an actuator.
The COM port runs to the top of the wastegate.
The NO port, (should be NC, I'll fix today) runs to a T and goes to the side of the wastegate, and the other line goes to the turbo housing pressure source.
I also have the fuel pressure reg. line tap'd and it goes to a T, one line to the main unit, the other to the boost guage.
Oh, and I took the plug out of the NC port, and I'll probably do the same when I switch the line over to there, I'll leave to NO port open? Or should I plug it back up?
OK, I just changed the port from NO to NC, I'll start the car and see if theres a difference in the vac. No, theres still no difference in the vac. still -99. But I changed the % value to 40% low, 45% high, I'll test it out tonight, and post my results.
So you followed the internal wastegate instructions when you have an external wastegate?
I actually made a mistake in a previous post my idle is at -99 which is where it is supposed to be if everything is set up correctly.
Let us know how you make out with it installed correctly.
I actually made a mistake in a previous post my idle is at -99 which is where it is supposed to be if everything is set up correctly.
Let us know how you make out with it installed correctly.
ok, well I did a minor test run, later tonight after work I'll do some WOT pulls, lucky thing about a night job is after you get off no ones around, hehehe. I still dont start gaining boost till late, 3rd gear 5-6 k rpm 8psi. Thats with 40 % boost, 12 % gain, 60psi set gain. I'll post after work and see if theres a difference from my previous settings. And yeah I corrected the solnoid installation, for external wastegate. Should I leave the third hole open? the NO port? Thanks for the help


