Alright so I am building my b18c and I went to plastiguage the main bearings today and wow what a surprise. They didn't even squish the plastiguage at all!! I went ahead an mic'd both the crank and the bearing surface (cap tq'd down with bearings in) and had between .001 and .002 clearance betweent he two so now i am even more confused. Any ideas here?

 

interesting. i think my main bearings tolerances came out between .0017 and .0019 from the plasitgauge

 

get thicker bearings.
What bearings are you using?

 

acl's but even then they measure out right but by plastiguage readings even honda blacks wouldn't fix the problem.

 

anyone with input?

also crank has ccbc and block is cbcc and acl's are supposed to be all c's right??

 

with cap torqued down and berarings in measure the inside diameter and compare to the crank.

are you sure you had bearings seated correctly

retest plastigauge- sounds like you did something wrong

just some ideas.

 

give us more detailes on what kind of work was done to the block/crank?

 

No work was done to either besides the crank being micropolished as described by seller. I mic'd both and by those measurements it should be perfect but plastigauge says otherwise. I would go ahead and do it but that scares me right there. The bearing surface was measured with the cap tq'd down as well and so yep stumped. I tried laying the plastigauge both ways on the crank too like one with the journals and one time with it across. Damn this motor lol

 

sounds odd.....is it exactly the same for all the main journals?

 

i havent checked all with the micrometer but the plastigauge wasn't touched on all 4 so I assume they are the same.. I will check for sure tomorrow.

 

acls are comparable to greens, and if you use blacks you should be really really close to a .0018 or so.

 

Is this the crank that is original to the block? If it is, check the bearing codes stamped on the block, if it isn't do you know what color bearings you pulled out?

 

ERL has some super thick bearings. Are you sure the block wasn't align bored?

 

Always use correct tools when measuring bearing clearance. Plasti Gauge is not one of them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHDZINE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Always use correct tools when measuring bearing clearance. Plasti Gauge is not one of them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Plasti gauge works fine. Plenty of well respected builders use it with ZERO issues what so ever. I take it Jeff Evans is a douge bag who doesn't know what he's doing, correct?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SD_Lurker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ERL has some super thick bearings. Are you sure the block wasn't align bored?</TD></TR></TABLE>

not that i know of

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this the crank that is original to the block? If it is, check the bearing codes stamped on the block, if it isn't do you know what color bearings you pulled out?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no its not but the block ccbc and the crank is cbcc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHDZINE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Always use correct tools when measuring bearing clearance. Plasti Gauge is not one of them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

a micrometer is one of the correct tools but plastiguage is a good reassurance tool.. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecspeed1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">acls are comparable to greens, and if you use blacks you should be really really close to a .0018 or so. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont think so considering I dont know what the clearance is with these bearings since its not being touched at all. There is no way that I can determine that blacks would solve the issue. According to the micrometer it is between a .001 and .002 clearance right now. I will get back to you guys with measurements all the way down the caps today..

 

If your doing the main bearings, you should have 5 letters. like cbbcc, or what ever.... you may just be leaving that out, but just wanted to make sure your not getting it mixed up with the rods. Of course, the block stamping is only for the mains, but the crank has the rods and mains. If you mic all 5 mains, and everything comes out right, then I would plastigauge them all again and see what you get.

 

Are you sure the tools you are using are precise enough for measuring bearings?

Sounds like your crank was cut and not polished.

 

stupid question, but are you using the correct color plastigauge?.... I havent built a motor in a year or so, but i think i used green if i remember right

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SD_Lurker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ERL has some super thick bearings. Are you sure the block wasn't align bored?</TD></TR></TABLE> if you align bore it correctly the journals should be at stock specs....that is the point of it, to return them back to the right diameter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionPerformanceParts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your doing the main bearings, you should have 5 letters. like cbbcc, or what ever.... you may just be leaving that out, but just wanted to make sure your not getting it mixed up with the rods. Of course, the block stamping is only for the mains, but the crank has the rods and mains. If you mic all 5 mains, and everything comes out right, then I would plastigauge them all again and see what you get.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh yeah I guess I am. I was doing it from memory just remember where the b was each time so just add a c lol..i so it would be cbccc and ccbcc..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_KJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you sure the tools you are using are precise enough for measuring bearings?
Sounds like your crank was cut and not polished.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am using a micrometer that measures to .001 its not perfect but if it falls between .001 and .002 i know its good then.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by srmofo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stupid question, but are you using the correct color plastigauge?.... I havent built a motor in a year or so, but i think i used green if i remember right</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep green

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by srmofo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if you align bore it correctly the journals should be at stock specs....that is the point of it, to return them back to the right diameter</TD></TR></TABLE>

you have no idea what you are talking about, nice try though. do some research and then come back and edit your post. have a nice day.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SD_Lurker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you have no idea what you are talking about, nice try though. do some research and then come back and edit your post. have a nice day. </TD></TR></TABLE>
do your own research chief, the reason you generally align bore the main journals is because they have become distorted and egg shaped...now let me explain to you how they do it...First they take all their measurements and figure out how much they have to remove to return it to a stock diameter. Second they remove the caps and cut the flat mating surfaces of the both the caps and the block, this creates a diameter that is not perfectly round...its kinda pointy in the center because they took a circle and cut the center out of it. Third, they cut the jounals out to their rough diameter (with the caps on and torqued to their proper specs, of course). Fourth they do a final hone to bring it out to the proper diameter(the stock spec, or close to it). The reason you use thicker bearings is because you have worn the crank down and have had it turned to a smaller diameter.

Nice try at being a dick , but obviously you are the one that doesn't know ****, nice try though, have a nice day
And you didnt even try to post a answer to this guys problem, hmmm, is that because you dont know ****.


Modified by srmofo at 11:26 PM 7/30/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by srmofo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do your own research chief, the reason you generally align bore the crank journals is because they have become distorted and egg shaped...now let me explain to you how they do it...First they take all their measurements and figure out how much they have to remove to return it to a stock diameter. Second they remove the caps and cut the flat mating surfaces of the both the caps and the block, this creates a diameter that is not perfectly round...its kinda pointy in the center because they took a circle and cut the center out of it. Third, they cut the jounals out to their rough diameter (with the caps on and torqued to their proper specs, of course). Fourth they do a final hone to bring it out to the proper diameter(the stock spec, or close to it). The reason you use thicker bearings is because you have worn the crank down and have had it turned to a smaller diameter.

Nice try at being a dick , but obviously you are the one that doesn't know ****, nice try though, have a nice day
And you didnt even try to post a answer to this guys problem, hmmm, is that because you dont know ****. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i hope this gets good.
im here to watch

to OP: try taking it to a machine shop and letting them measure things by laser

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony413 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

to OP: try taking it to a machine shop and letting them measure things by laser </TD></TR></TABLE>

Been thinking about it just gotta find time to get down there.