Precision Turbo Problems
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Precision Turbo Problems
I have a 2008 Civic Si with a Full Race kit in it. Hes been through 2 journal turbos already by blowing out the oil seal. I cant figure out why? there is people on the 8th gen forums telling me to run a restrictor and then Precision telling me not to. I checked EVERYTHING (leakdown test, compression test, feed line, return line) and it all seems to be legit and good.
just wondering if you guys expierenced any problems with journal bearings. does the K engine produce really high oil pressure then the turbo is rated for? should he try a .065 restrictor?
just wondering if you guys expierenced any problems with journal bearings. does the K engine produce really high oil pressure then the turbo is rated for? should he try a .065 restrictor?
#2
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
Most K series tend to run a little high on oil pressure over 90psi. On most journal bearing systems, a .065" restrictor is expected. But also check the way your oil return line is with no 90 degree -AN fittings on drain and that the feed has no kinks.
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
What turbo is that? Im running a Precision sc34 with no restictor(-3an) on a d16y8 with shimmed oil pump. Its putting out decent oil pressure....not much less then your k. No problems so far...approximately 3k on the setup. Runs great.
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
its a journal bearing 5857. i went through 2 of them already.
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
ya turbo is perfect for Ks. my bro had a 6262 on his rsx-s and just sold it for the 5857 cuz he loves how it preforms on mine. he has no issues with his K series though which is wierd
#10
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
I was worried about the pressure my turbo was seeing after I swapped in my built engine. I was seeing 90-100 psi on the oil pressure gauge.
What I did was get one of the stealthmode ball valve restrictors. I ran a tee fitting off the restrictor and put a liquid filled gauge on it. I adjusted it while the car was on the dyno so that at full throttle the gauge was reading 55-60 psi. Hot idle gauge reads about 5psi. Which is what I was seeing at hot idle before I adjusted the valve.
What I did was get one of the stealthmode ball valve restrictors. I ran a tee fitting off the restrictor and put a liquid filled gauge on it. I adjusted it while the car was on the dyno so that at full throttle the gauge was reading 55-60 psi. Hot idle gauge reads about 5psi. Which is what I was seeing at hot idle before I adjusted the valve.
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
guess a restrictor for the turbo when it comes back from being rebuilt. a restrictor is not going to starve the turbo of oil during idle or part throttle right?
#13
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
Going with the .065" restrictor would be cheaper, but I liked having the gauge in the line so I could tell what pressure the turbo was seeing.
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
alright i would try the .065. 1158s idea is great but i would have to buy a gauge, mount it, blah blah more work. if the .065 dont work then im just goin to go ball bearing next
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
this is a pic of a pt67 NON BALL BEARING turbo i installed on a customers vehicle after only 7 street 3rd gear pulls and 4 track runs and 10 street miles. the car had a garrett 60-1 on it for 1 year with no problems and all i did was change turbos and retune. precision says they wont warranty it and its gonna cost 300 to 500. WAT HAPPENED I HAD A FILTER ON AT ALL TIMES!
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
does my return line look fine though shodan? i also have my feed coming off an oil sandwich adaptor. could that be a cause? maybe change it to a "T" off the oil pressure sensor?
#18
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
My feed is off a GE oil sandwich. It was fine when I had the original engine in. I only started see a little oil in my charge pipes after I swapped in my built engine. I saw a 15-20 psi increase in oil pressure on my gauge which is why I ended up buying the restrictor. Your return looks fine to me. My money is on oil pressure being to high.
I would also keep your 3an, don't switch to 4.
I would also keep your 3an, don't switch to 4.
#19
Re: Precision Turbo Problems
OP sounds like too much oil pressure as indicated above and I would look at a restrictor as suggested to drop down the pressure a bit.
As with every other time you post this picture... looks like something got sucked into the turbo. IE... look at the leading edges of the wheel which are all chipped and look like they have an edge worn on them as well. LOL looks like an edge you see on a my well used lawn mower blade.
this is a pic of a pt67 NON BALL BEARING turbo i installed on a customers vehicle after only 7 street 3rd gear pulls and 4 track runs and 10 street miles. the car had a garrett 60-1 on it for 1 year with no problems and all i did was change turbos and retune. precision says they wont warranty it and its gonna cost 300 to 500. WAT HAPPENED I HAD A FILTER ON AT ALL TIMES!
#21
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
I didn't need one at first. Then when I swapped engines (everything else stayed the same) I started seeing a little bit of oil getting past the seal. Lucky I caught it early and didn't do any damage. I put in the restrictor and now I'm not seeing oil get past the seal.
#22
Re: Precision Turbo Problems
really though, oil isnt going to destroy a steel ring. its not going to wear it. its not like if the seal sees 100psi once its going to shatter the steel ring/seal.
imho its the drain that is the most important part. also, if the block has a lot of crank case pressure that can lead to the oil leaking past the seal. after all, the oil will find the easiest route of escape that follow it.
imho its the drain that is the most important part. also, if the block has a lot of crank case pressure that can lead to the oil leaking past the seal. after all, the oil will find the easiest route of escape that follow it.
#23
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
really though, oil isnt going to destroy a steel ring. its not going to wear it. its not like if the seal sees 100psi once its going to shatter the steel ring/seal.
imho its the drain that is the most important part. also, if the block has a lot of crank case pressure that can lead to the oil leaking past the seal. after all, the oil will find the easiest route of escape that follow it.
imho its the drain that is the most important part. also, if the block has a lot of crank case pressure that can lead to the oil leaking past the seal. after all, the oil will find the easiest route of escape that follow it.
I do agree with you though. In most cases it does not seem to be the feed. It is more likely to be the drain or a crankcase pressure issue.
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
well there is a picture above of my return and i was told it looks fine. so i dont thnk its the return. my crankcase pressure is the best i can do as well. i have a k20 engine. what i did was remove my PCV valve, i put a barbed fitting in so its open, and ran it to a breather can. then i also ran a hose from the VC port to a breather can. everything open and venting. so im hoping now its just the restrictor on the feed
#25
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Re: Precision Turbo Problems
well there is a picture above of my return and i was told it looks fine. so i dont thnk its the return. my crankcase pressure is the best i can do as well. i have a k20 engine. what i did was remove my PCV valve, i put a barbed fitting in so its open, and ran it to a breather can. then i also ran a hose from the VC port to a breather can. everything open and venting. so im hoping now its just the restrictor on the feed