The bottom end is getting build (usual pistons, rods etc...) in the next week and while it is all apart is this worth doing for a boosted B18C6 Type-R motor?

 

go for it

 

Your head should have been hand ported from the factory?!?

 

Is it worth the performance gains is what I'm asking.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pngfolife &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your head should have been hand ported from the factory?!?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Only very mild porting from what I'd gathered...not the full job.

 

I did a port and polish and 3 angle valve job as well as port matching the manifolds and a heavy port and polish on the intake manifold and I noticed a huge difference in how easily the car flies through the rpm's as well as torque and high end power. Go for it it's that extra step that will set you apart.

 

Indeed, it helps the spooling time a bit.Its a great addition to any car.

 

Just do the valve job. P&P gains will be minimal, for the amount of $ your gonna spend. $200 for a good valve job, use the balance $ for the rest of the setup.

 

Any more opinions?


Modified by swlabhot at 10:01 AM 7/16/2004

 

sw, a 3 angle port is the stock from honda, it's the number for flat surfaces on the valve seat. The final angle is where the valve itself rest againts... basic an aftermarket job would re-touch these surfaces for optimal flow.. 5 angle is a lot better.. but also hard on honda's cuase of the size of the valves.. and how much room we have to work with. a 3 angle valve job on a honda is iffy.. i would'nt make it a top prioty.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DewMota &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sw, a 3 angle port is the stock from honda, it's the number for flat surfaces on the valve seat. The final angle is where the valve itself rest againts...</TD></TR></TABLE>

The second angle (60,44.5,30) is the seat angle which is an interference angle. Usually it is like 45 degrees on the valve and 44.5 on the seat.

 

ahh good to know...

 

go for a 3 angle valve job , get all new valve seals , and have them check your valve guides ... most likely they will be fine , but check them.


skip the Port and polish....unless you absolutely need the most out of your engine and are 1) proffesionally racing this engine or 2) have tons of money to throw around

 

Portflow

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">skip the Port and polish....unless you absolutely need the most out of your engine and are 1) proffesionally racing this engine or 2) have tons of money to throw around </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, mild porting (meaning cleaning up the short turn radius and smoothing the transition from the port to the valve seat) can yield up to a 15% increase in flow. It isn't too expensive either.

Of course, like I said already, your head should have been ported from the factory in this manner. If you had a GSR, I would recommend you port the head. Seeing as how this improvement has already been done from the factory, you don't necessarily need anymore porting.

Opening up the ports anymore will result in more flow at higher cam lifts but will generally reduce velocity enough to hurt overall performance. ITR heads flow very well from what I gather.